Had a little fun the other day and smashed my tranny lines against the oil pan with my upper control arm, should I use oe or make my own out of a flex line to make sure this doesn't happen again? Has anyone tried this? Did it last? I need some help. Until I fix this it's only driving to work and back. Fluid is still flowing but it's restricted and leaking a bit, I just want some feedback before I go to the stealership to get new oe lines. Thanks guys!

 

Bump stops and OEM replacement parts for the rest of it.

 

I just put new bumps in. Didn't save me. and I don't have the money for the lines right now. How lOng do you think I can drive with them right now? My guess is it doesn't recirculate all the fluid, cause I haven't lost nearly any, and it's not gettin hot, and my fluid is still red/pink.

 

Don't drive it much with the cooler compromised...AW4 tends to run warm anyway and heat is it's biggest enemy.

If you squeeze gently on the widened (smushed) area, you might be able to pop the line back open somewhat, provided it isn't hammered completely flat. Gently....
Or you could cut out the damaged sections, slip a chunk of rubber trans cooler line in it's place and put a pair of worm gear hose clamps at each end.
In fact I'm not seeing a problem making a permanent fix that way if you are on a budget. Route them up out of the way. Every outboard trans cooler I've installed uses rubber (probably neoprene) lines and hose clamps, lol. Never been a problem.

 

x2^
Look into extending those bump stops!!

 

Auto parts stores can get them for you through Dorman. 35 -45 each

 

Same thing happened to me on stock bumpstops, stock height, with the swaybar disconnected. I cut them with a standard plumbing pipecutter and patched in rubber trans line with hose clamps. No issue since, though I've been meaning to get back in there and flare the hard lines (would guarantee the hose never slips off.) I spent maybe 20 bucks on the rubber lines+clamps.

 

I replaced them, gonna cut an reroute soon. Had to replace full length cause they leaked anyway, so I'll just not huck my peep too hard till then. But I have a problem with the quick discos on the rad. They aren't the same, if I just cut those off will the rubber slip clean over the line out of the rad? Cause I have a small leak on the lower line right as it goes into the port on the rad. Has anyone done this? And I'd the inner diameter of that rubber hose the same as the outer of the hard line that attached to the lower port of the rad? I'm afraid the line will drop and catch fire. I wanna do this ASAP but I don't know of I'd need to buy anything but a few hose clamps. Running low on funds after this replacement haha

 

Pics of the clamp in question?

 

upper line, lower line is the somewhat leaky one, but same connector, thinking about taking quick discos out of the equation.



these are the old lines. jeeps arent trophy trucks. gotta remember that.

 

I had the same problem at the radiator also. I thought it might have been because it was a CFS. I soldered a barbed fitting to the radiator and clamped it with 2 clamps to be extra sure.
Ron

 

I did the exact thing as the OP, except the crimp in my tranny line sprung a leak. Towed it home and cut the sections out along the oil pan, then routed rubber soft line up and over the brown dog motor mount. No crazy flaring of the old metal tubes, just double clamps and I slid the rubber over as much hardline as possible, at least 6". I slit a few old upper radiator hoses lengthwise and used these as protective conduits for my rubber tranny lines. Also put in better bumpstops and bypassed the in-radiator tranny cooler, mounted an aux. cooler in front of the electric fan, but now we're getting out of OEM tech .

 

I got the part numbers from the dealership and then brought them to napa. they were able to convert into their part numbers and I got both my trans lines for less than $70.

didn't help that a slight bump on the road pinched them and hour after we put em in... >