Hi all-

This is my first post here on Cherokee Forum-apologies if this is the wrong section to be posting in.

I have an XJ with a BA10/5 and the 4.0 engine. It has fresh Redline MT-90 fluid, and the clutch was replaced approximately 20k miles ago. I don’t slam shifts and always allow the syncros to line up between gear changes. The Jeep has always been cared for and has 78k miles, having had the snowplow since 1993. It’s only plowed driveways, usually in 4 Low, 2nd gear. It got the lift and 31” tires in 2015 and has been driven very sparingly since then.

But lately I’ve been having trouble with 1st and 2nd gear, even after getting the transmission up to temp. It doesn’t like 1st to 2nd upshifts, or 3rd to 2nd downshifts, or even 2nd to 1st downshifts. I can make the 1-2 upshift fine at 3,500 RPM, but anything lower and it will grind a little. I had to slow down to 15 MPH the other day to shift from 3rd to 2nd without crunching/grinding.

I’ve tried to double-clutch and rev-match my 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st downshifts, but oftentimes it still crunches slightly going into gear. The higher gears shift and feel great, though. I understand the BA10/5 isn’t the greatest transmission, but I’d like to make it last as long as possible, as an AX-15 or NV 3550 swap isn’t really in the budget right now.

I was wondering if anyone else double-clutches downshifts with the BA10/5? What’s the RPM range for rev-matching? Are the syncros going bad, or is it my shifting technique?

I can shift other manual transmissions fine, but this little Peugeot has me beat...LOL.

Thanks in advance,

A.D.

 

If you are double clutching and rev matching like you should, it should drop right into gear.

 

You might check the clutch slave cylinder; if its not 'extending' completely, that could cause this issue theoretically.

 

How do I check the slave cylinder to make sure it's fully extending? I thought the BA10/5 had an internal slave cylinder? The clutch pedal feels good and it's not losing any clutch fluid. I've been driving the Jeep on and off for 3 years now, and it's only started grinding recently, in the past week or so. Double clutching helps but I must not be rev-matching my downshifts correctly, as I still get a definite 'crunch' on the 3-2 shift.
A.D.

 

Just for fun, suck all the fluid out of the master cylinder. add new fluid to the proper level.
Then, pump the clutch pedal about 40 times and walk away. Let it sit for 20 minutes. See if it shifts easier after that. .
That flexible hose in the system can get "squishy" over time and expand when the pedal is depressed. One thing at a time.

 

OK, it has fresh fluid and I bled the air out. After letting it sit, the shifting seems about the same, maybe slightly better on the upshifts. Dumb question, but where is the flexible hose? The engine bay is kinda dirty and I was short on time when I changed the fluid earlier this evening- did not see it.
Thanks for the input, Cruiser54. In the meantime I'll keep practicing my rev-matching
A.D.

 

It's part of the metal line that goes from the master to slave.

 

Think I found it. Looks fine, tested it with a set of calipers and it did not expand when the pedal was depressed. I'll just practice my double-clutching, best guess is the 1st and 2nd gear syncros are going out. I've heard that 78k is considered high mileage for a BA10/5 - how much longer can I expect out of this gearbox?
Thanks,
A.D.