snakeyez

My dad's 1996 XJ has had a small (but significant) water leak on the passenger side for quite a while now. It was leaking down the firewall near the kick panel. It was not dripping from the lower dash onto the floor (which would indicate the fresh air intake), but rather it was running down the seam between the firewall floor and side kick panel from somewhere above the blower motor area.

By using a waterhose running at a small trickle, we were able to determine where the leaking was coming from. In the picture below, you see me pointing at the general area where water was entering the cab. What you are looking at is the underhood passenger area near the firewall with the washer fluid bottle removed and electrical cabling pushed up out of the way. All of the primer gray colored metal used to be covered by some kind of hard plastic-like strips of sealant. These strips were painted over at the factory and apparently helped to seal the area that was just pressed together and machine welded. Over time, the strips became brittle and broke off, leaving small openings at the seam.

We cleaned the gray area and siliconed any gaps that used to be covered by the broken strips (as seen in the second picture).

I just wanted to share this information with anyone who has a mystery water leak that isn't the windshield, antenna grommet, fresh air intake, or blower motor. I have never read of anyone having a water leak at this seam.

PocketsEmpty

Thank you for this!! I am so glad to find an alternative solution. My leak appears to be happening the same way yours was. I just had my windshield resealed and now shocked to find the same water leak still exists now that it's raining. Did you happen to have any water on your dash, by the windshield seam?

I will investigate this and hope that it is my issue as well.

NewJerseyXJ609

I really need to fix my water leak issue too.. Lol. Mine is happening on the drivers side. The floor is always wet. Luckily this xj doesn't have a dime of rust. So I know it's not coming up from the floor like on my 96. Haha

Thanks for posting this.

PocketsEmpty

The drivers side leak seems to be less common. I haven't checked my cowl, antenna or blower motor seals yet, so I'm really hoping its not the cowl...if I have to tear my dash apart that means I'll have to replace my heater core and AC evap while i'm in there. Yikes.

ZackFrost

I found that my Jeep water leak at the passenger side was coming from the outside air inlet seal, inside the cowl area (where the windshield wipers motors are all the way to the right side of the cowl). You'll find several people advising to cut the metal body and fix it without removing the dash. I don't have the time and place to remove the dashboard so I paid a mechanic about $850, problem solved in one day. My Jeep is 100% original. I don't agree to do jobs like modifying original body.

arpunk

This is exactly what I’m doing. Instead of sealing the blower, pour water into the cowl and see how water is making its way into the engine bay from there. I have a few spots so I’m going to apply RTV along the seam so that the cowl can drain properly.

robsjeep

Note...

RTV Silicones typically cure with a release of acetic acid. Dont use this on the steel body, else rust may form, destroying the seal. Many rtv silicons do not do well with engine cleaners, gasoline and such.

Far better to use an automotive rated sealer, or a sealer that is urethane based. Urethane sealers are much better than RTV Silicone for this application. You want a sealer that maintains flexibility here as the body may flex. A rigid sealer will crack under too much flex

Save the RTV silicone for your bathtub or fishtank. ( or boob job). Dont use it when there is contact to the steel body

arpunk

@robsjeep I used Permatex 82194
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-maker-3-5-oz/

TDS says it is non-corrosive and lists lots of metal as applications: https://itwgbpermatex.wpenginepowere.../tds/22074.pdf
"Sensor safe, non-corrosive"
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Valve covers
• Transmission pans
• Oil pans
• Timing gear covers
• Differential covers

It is oxime silicone, not acetoxy silicone so it should only release methyl ethyl ketoxime as opposed to acetic acid. What are your thoughts?

robsjeep

that formula is non corrosive, but many, perhaps most silicones rtvs found retail do release acid. However gasket sealer is made to go between parts, ie oil pan, timing cover application. a better choice will be a water proof body sealant that is made specifically for this application. Gasket sealer is made to be a thin film between two tight tolerance surfaces. gasket sealer may not be a rugged, tear off or not adhere as well as the correct body sealer.
but at least the product you used is non corrosive many if not most silicone rtv is corrosive. but a gasket sealer likely has much lower abrasion resistance and will likely not accept paint. body sealers usually accept paint well. not that some body sealers are not water proof, this type is often used say inside a trunk, but should not be used on areas that get wet.

Corky

And an automotive seam sealer has the ability to be painted if you don't want your firewall looking like an old rain gutter repair if that kind of stuff bothers you ...

arpunk

The RTV is covered by the coolant reservoir.

D.R.Ball

If it smells like vinegar it is corrosive... A simple way to tell. Thus I have spoken the words of the NA 01-1A-509 Aircraft corrosion control manual.

arpunk

It’s not corrosive. I asked the company. See above.