I have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Chief and i was wondering if some one could tell me how to tell what model of transmission, transfer case and Front and rear ends. Please help me out as I am a new jeep Nut. HAHAHA

 

It'll be a D30 up front.



Check yourself for rear... (Since you're an 88 it should only be either d35 or d44. probably d35 )

If it's automatic, it'll be an AW4 transmission. If it's manual it could be either the AX5 (if it's a 4 cyl) or the Peugeot BA-10/5 if it's an I6.

As for the transfer case... it'll either be the NP242 or the NP231. If it's the 242 it'll have a full-time 4x4 option.

 

If it's an automatic, it's an AW4. (Asian Warner 4 speed). (Use DexronIII)

Likely a 231 with the options, 2H, 4H, N, and 4L. Dexron III there as well, but someone posted IIII is OK there....I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure the 232 has a different pattern on the shifter.

I highly recommend you click on my signature and look at the link to Cruisers stuff. Particularly the c-101 issues with your 88.

Welcome to CF! Don.

 

Thank you guys for the information!!!! :-) now i can get started in repairing a few things.... lol

 

JN had questions about vacuum leaks. Thought I'd start with this below. If anyone has any thoughts on using just water, feel free to "chime in".

Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep. ALSO, there is a large line coming off the intake, rear of the TB that goes back to the firewall, across, then forward down to the vacuum ball behind your right front bumper. You can pinch that off or unplug it and cap the nipple to test if you have a leak there.

 

Thank you for all the information i hope to get pictures of the old girl on soon so i can start the before and after shots Have alot in mind and alot that NEED to be done so all the information that is out there is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED Thank you and if there is anything i can do let me know so i can try.

 

Just Keep the rubber side down. . Good luck!

 

Click on the pink link in my signature and do the procedures outlined in posts 1,2, and 3 for sure.