Ok so i turned my jeep on the other day and the parking brake light is on and wont go off, i know that the brake is not stuck or active, i tryed to disconnect the wire that detects that the brake is up and grounded but the light is still on. so any suggestions on how to fix this?

 

the "E-brake" light is dual purpose, one for letting you know the e-brake is on, and the other is from the pressure switch on the master cylinder. My guess is you need to check your brake lines and fluid levels.

I had the same conundrum last year around this time, come to find out my rear brakes were shot and there was no fluid in the rear brake line which caused the light to stay on. Swapped in an axle with good brakes(for other reasons also) and voila! the brake light went off and I have rear brakes now.

 

Well i do know that i need rear brakes do you think thats the reason? do i have to change the master cylinder? sorry i have no clue when it comes to brakes, could it just be im low on brake fluid?

 

You shouldn't need to swap an axle or master cylinder unless your rear axle AND brakes are totally fuxxored like mine were. I'll just say that bad pinion bearings, backlash and unrebuildable brakes more than made my D35 not worth messing with.

If you need rear brakes thats probably what the issue is. I'd check your fluid level, do the brakes along with new wheel cylinders and you should be good to go.

 

well something else i forgot to mention was, i did some light wheeling the other day and my brakes gave out when i was goin down a hill, and now when i step on my brake pedal it doesnt feel like there is much pressure, the e-brake light was on before this tho, so could my brakes giving out be from the fact that i need rear brakes? my jeep seems to stop fine tho besides the unbearable screachting noise they make when i stop

 

If there is a pressure difference between the front & rear brake lines, the switch under the M/C will trip to one side. Causing the light to be lit.

Also as mentioned above tit could be due to low fluid.

Either way, something is wrong. You need to get it straightened out before taking your vehicle on public roads.

The ability to stop is important to say the least, if you aren't sure how to fix it right & our suggestions don't work then have someone look at it who knows about it.

Don't take any chances with your brakes.

 

would having these issues with the brakes cause the check engine light to come on aswell as the ebrake light?

 

yeah your rear brakes and fronts need to at least be looked at, and one or the other needs to be replaced. The rears are probably it, and the wheel cylinders are probably fully extended and thats why you have a low brake pressure.

For sure, Having only front brakes SUCKS. I was broke and had no other choice, But DO NOT do it.

No, the brake light is only for the e-brake and the master cylinder pressure switch.

Engine Light= something with the engine.

Brake Light= something with the braking system.

 

ok lol well my check engine light always comes on randumly and goes off i dont even pay attention to it anymore lol, well i got brand new complete front brakes at the beginning of summer, and was told i needed rear brakes soon but didnt have the cash to do them at the time, so i guess they got to the point were i have no choice but to get them done.
Brake Light= something with the braking system

 

well i brought my jeep into the shop this morning, guess i blew a wheel cylinder

 

I refuse to EVER bring my Heep to a shop. Its not worth it in any way from what I figure.

This is how I look at it: For cheaper than what a shop would charge me, I can buy the parts and any tools needed, do some reading and gain priceless knowledge in the process. I save myself money and learn a ton in the process. thats a win/win situation to me. I also know the job was done right, and can't blame anyone but myself if it wasn't.

Prior to owning a welder, the only thing any of my vehicles had ever been to a shop for besides inspection was having welding on exhaust done. Did I mention that Tuffy did the ****tiest exhaust work I've ever seen? I know for a fact I could do a better job in less time.

thats just my $0.02 on the subject though.
sorry for the threadjack