Opinions Needed! My 56$ Sealed System Cold Air Intake
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
There's a lot of "off-the-cuff" comments here and I see it all the time when the debate turns to CAIs. Because everyone knows it all right after they fab up a PVC CAI. OP, I dunno how old you are, but your enthusiasm is youthful and could be contagious. I dunno, maybe you never floored the XJ before you did the mods. I'll tell you this: you might have gained horsepower, but MPG I think not, considering the heavy right foot you have confessed to. Consider yourself lucky. I get 10 mpg all day long.
Guys, a metal intake like the ebay crap gives less cold air than a PVC intake which offers less than a K&N type. Why? The material it's made of. Metal is thin & a good conductor of heat. That means it heats up very quickly and so does the air inside. PVC heats up less quickly because it is denser, therefore the air coming in from behind the headlight stays cooler longer. Similarly, the ABS plastic of the K&N type tubes heats up far more slowly than metal, and therefore keeps the air inside cooler longer. (That is why the factory air box is made of ABS plastic) After coming at the headlight hole, air will NOT get heated by the engine quickly enough before it gets sucked into the TB. Hence, the aftermarket units are better.
Adding to this is the need for a heat shield. All the good aftermarket units have them. A well placed shield will help to insulate the filter from engine heat enough to keep the air cool as it passes. If the vehicle is sitting still, the air remains hot. When you start moving, the air exchange (flow) is constant, therefore always cooler. Plus, it enters the inlet & goes directly to the filter, with little chance to get heated by underhood heat. So all those "cheap" homemade units are just that: cheap under-engineered homemade units that don't do enough to achieve what you're trying to do.
Guys, a metal intake like the ebay crap gives less cold air than a PVC intake which offers less than a K&N type. Why? The material it's made of. Metal is thin & a good conductor of heat. That means it heats up very quickly and so does the air inside. PVC heats up less quickly because it is denser, therefore the air coming in from behind the headlight stays cooler longer. Similarly, the ABS plastic of the K&N type tubes heats up far more slowly than metal, and therefore keeps the air inside cooler longer. (That is why the factory air box is made of ABS plastic) After coming at the headlight hole, air will NOT get heated by the engine quickly enough before it gets sucked into the TB. Hence, the aftermarket units are better.
Adding to this is the need for a heat shield. All the good aftermarket units have them. A well placed shield will help to insulate the filter from engine heat enough to keep the air cool as it passes. If the vehicle is sitting still, the air remains hot. When you start moving, the air exchange (flow) is constant, therefore always cooler. Plus, it enters the inlet & goes directly to the filter, with little chance to get heated by underhood heat. So all those "cheap" homemade units are just that: cheap under-engineered homemade units that don't do enough to achieve what you're trying to do.
Wait till you see this.. I think it will be the ONLY system that will truly be cold air.. Even those K and N systems are bogus and stuck under the hood sucking heat.. You need a snorkel type setup
What do you think?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I wanted a cone filter and larger opening and the filter AWAY from the fan and radiator..
This is the start of a TRUE outside air intake like a snorkel wich looks stupid on these trucks.. Im going to run stainless vent horns on the hood..lol
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i bought a "cold air intake" off ebay at the beginning of the summer
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...#ht_2660wt_958
Attachment 30531
Attachment 30532
i was able to get mine for $45 shipped to my door... don't mean to shoot your ingenuity down but figured you'd prolly like to know.. and the whole head kicken and feeling it on the highway... i know what you mean but its not that dramatic, you can honestly feel a slightly (i mean slightly) harder pull at stops and the down-shift response to really fly on the high-way.. again very slight.....
honestly not 10hp gain..... just spit-balling for a reasonable figure.... maybe 1 horspower gain and like another MPG but thats about it
but its an easy installation and its solid... just not very TRAIL worthy lol i found out hahaahaha its my DD though so it serves its purpose
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...#ht_2660wt_958
Attachment 30531
Attachment 30532
i was able to get mine for $45 shipped to my door... don't mean to shoot your ingenuity down but figured you'd prolly like to know.. and the whole head kicken and feeling it on the highway... i know what you mean but its not that dramatic, you can honestly feel a slightly (i mean slightly) harder pull at stops and the down-shift response to really fly on the high-way.. again very slight.....
honestly not 10hp gain..... just spit-balling for a reasonable figure.... maybe 1 horspower gain and like another MPG but thats about it
but its an easy installation and its solid... just not very TRAIL worthy lol i found out hahaahaha its my DD though so it serves its purpose
These things cause MORE heat then good.. K and N is even plastick.. That chrome will heat up in summer and your truck will not like it.. Plastic is teh way to go.. and thick plastic
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 711
Likes: 1
From: Benton, KY
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the part i'm super curious about is how well the filter fits in the "housing"... is it a super tight fit? if i were to use this setup to encase a filter to build the snorkel for my old lady's XJ, would it be water tight?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
People at home depot thought I was nuts.. The guy in Plumbing was dumfounded.. haha.. Its a perfect fit.. I was shocked myself.. If you get some more pipe and fittings you can get nuts like me and cut a hole in the hood to ram air into the filter COLD air directly..
Is it water tight? I can tell you this.. It would take a lot of energy to cause water to travel all teh way up to the cone filter. People drop these filters in there with NO cover lol.. Stupid.. Even K and N has only like 1 kind thats enclosed and their filters sit way lower then the throttle body. My setup, the filter is up neear the wheel well. I have less of a chance of getting water in there then anything else I have seen.. Thijnk about how simple this is to understand. (PS I need a spellchecker since I type for crap)
Last edited by buysellny; Nov 24, 2010 at 11:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
To anyone reading this. Let me clarify that I got 10hp gain with a COMBINATION of 63mm throttle body, Ford XR3Z injectors, Brand new Exhuast and the high flow intake I made here.. I expect even more once I ram the cold air down with more PVC tied directly to a intake vent I will cut into the hood.. Im thinking of making it Chrome and multi vents with the openings designed to ram air down and deflect water away using geometry lol.. Keep in mind its not really ramming.. It will hit the filter A LOT fast and a LOT colder.. I do not ride in trails.. Im looking for MPG's and nothing I do has got me better then 15mpg until now.. I am touching the gas slightly and hitting 65mph.. The throttle body was a great investment
Last edited by buysellny; Nov 24, 2010 at 11:13 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 711
Likes: 1
From: Benton, KY
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well, i DO want the filter to fit snugly in the "catch basin" since thats what i would be using for an airbox...air would come in just as yours does, only i would be drawing from either the cowl or above the windshield...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
it does fit snug.. maybe an 1/8th of an inch around it. You could seal it easily
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 4
From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
its faster for certian.. I know all about CAI and I know there is no such thing.. Its a gimmick.. The truck jumps due to throttle body, exhust and airflow.. How can you say no horsepower gain? I know it is.. Not a lot but enough where you touch the gas and the truck leaps forward now.. Its a scientifically proven fact that a larger throttle body and more air flow will improve horsepower.
Its consisten also, I have brand new injectors also..
Its consisten also, I have brand new injectors also..
torque. torque gets you going, horsepower keeps you going. I have my doubts but without a dyno to read the horse gains and calculate the torque we'll never know.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I don't follow you.. Does this mean all these claims of HP gains is not true? Im not berating you but Im asking in all seriousness..
You have "doubts"? Do you mean doubts about any gains at all or what I said 10hp?
If no gains at all then why is anyone doing this to their trucks?
CF Veteran

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 3
From: West By God Virginia
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 99 4.0
Well I guess its time to hit you with the knowledge hammer.
1 Cold Air intakes are 'real' they do work and give real world gains.
2 all these ghetto pvc intakes will look 100x better if you use abs instead of pvc.
3 Real performance cars do come with CAI 99.9% of them dont because they are loud.
no one denies the increase in sound. CAI, or any type of open element system will be very audible, which car companies dont like. the average car owner would wonder why their car makes noises, and why its so 'loud' car companies market a quiet ride. If you get rid of everything that quiets the intake it will add flow. the biggest problems with these on the 4.0, is you reuse the stock elbow. those ridges on the stock pipe alter the air flow, simply adding a silicone elbow with a hard pipe will flow.
next point is filter selection, like it or not the name brand filters have been proven time and again over ebay ones.
then you have surface area, which is far greater on a cone, over the stock flat filter. the stock system also has many unnecessary bends, the straighter the better.
so in theory the most powerful system would be a hood scoop with a straight pipe into the TB. now as far as functionality thats where we have to compromise, so trying to get the coldest air possible is key. first the vast majority of xjs will NOT be in water over the headlights. so most open element filters are ok. now back to the OP
by covering the filter he may limit flow, but by extending the pipe after, he may decreased temp, so it probably evens out. the best thing for the OP would be to leave it open and extend it as far into the corner as possible. slightly better than that would be to relocate the battery, and run a straight 3" pipe to the passenger side headlight corner. both sides will benefit greatly from heat shields. I dont think water is gonna be an issue for someone who "can really 'haul' on the interstate now"
As far as the OP's claims to power, I do not doubt what so ever he gained 10hp. the problem is where did he gain it? Most of you on this site have to realize that power to the wheels have to worry about drivetrain loss which is normally percentage based. so when you are losing A LOT of power due to your lift and 35 inch tires so something like a moved filter wont hit the but dyno so hard. so like it or not the OP is putting down more power than most of you, simply due to your drivetrain loss.
Im sure Im missing a bunch but thats a start.
1 Cold Air intakes are 'real' they do work and give real world gains.
2 all these ghetto pvc intakes will look 100x better if you use abs instead of pvc.
3 Real performance cars do come with CAI 99.9% of them dont because they are loud.
no one denies the increase in sound. CAI, or any type of open element system will be very audible, which car companies dont like. the average car owner would wonder why their car makes noises, and why its so 'loud' car companies market a quiet ride. If you get rid of everything that quiets the intake it will add flow. the biggest problems with these on the 4.0, is you reuse the stock elbow. those ridges on the stock pipe alter the air flow, simply adding a silicone elbow with a hard pipe will flow.
next point is filter selection, like it or not the name brand filters have been proven time and again over ebay ones.
then you have surface area, which is far greater on a cone, over the stock flat filter. the stock system also has many unnecessary bends, the straighter the better.
so in theory the most powerful system would be a hood scoop with a straight pipe into the TB. now as far as functionality thats where we have to compromise, so trying to get the coldest air possible is key. first the vast majority of xjs will NOT be in water over the headlights. so most open element filters are ok. now back to the OP
by covering the filter he may limit flow, but by extending the pipe after, he may decreased temp, so it probably evens out. the best thing for the OP would be to leave it open and extend it as far into the corner as possible. slightly better than that would be to relocate the battery, and run a straight 3" pipe to the passenger side headlight corner. both sides will benefit greatly from heat shields. I dont think water is gonna be an issue for someone who "can really 'haul' on the interstate now"
As far as the OP's claims to power, I do not doubt what so ever he gained 10hp. the problem is where did he gain it? Most of you on this site have to realize that power to the wheels have to worry about drivetrain loss which is normally percentage based. so when you are losing A LOT of power due to your lift and 35 inch tires so something like a moved filter wont hit the but dyno so hard. so like it or not the OP is putting down more power than most of you, simply due to your drivetrain loss.
Im sure Im missing a bunch but thats a start.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well I guess its time to hit you with the knowledge hammer.
1 Cold Air intakes are 'real' they do work and give real world gains.
2 all these ghetto pvc intakes will look 100x better if you use abs instead of pvc.
3 Real performance cars do come with CAI 99.9% of them dont because they are loud.
no one denies the increase in sound. CAI, or any type of open element system will be very audible, which car companies dont like. the average car owner would wonder why their car makes noises, and why its so 'loud' car companies market a quiet ride. If you get rid of everything that quiets the intake it will add flow. the biggest problems with these on the 4.0, is you reuse the stock elbow. those ridges on the stock pipe alter the air flow, simply adding a silicone elbow with a hard pipe will flow.
next point is filter selection, like it or not the name brand filters have been proven time and again over ebay ones.
then you have surface area, which is far greater on a cone, over the stock flat filter. the stock system also has many unnecessary bends, the straighter the better.
so in theory the most powerful system would be a hood scoop with a straight pipe into the TB. now as far as functionality thats where we have to compromise, so trying to get the coldest air possible is key. first the vast majority of xjs will NOT be in water over the headlights. so most open element filters are ok. now back to the OP
by covering the filter he may limit flow, but by extending the pipe after, he may decreased temp, so it probably evens out. the best thing for the OP would be to leave it open and extend it as far into the corner as possible. slightly better than that would be to relocate the battery, and run a straight 3" pipe to the passenger side headlight corner. both sides will benefit greatly from heat shields. I dont think water is gonna be an issue for someone who "can really 'haul' on the interstate now"
As far as the OP's claims to power, I do not doubt what so ever he gained 10hp. the problem is where did he gain it? Most of you on this site have to realize that power to the wheels have to worry about drivetrain loss which is normally percentage based. so when you are losing A LOT of power due to your lift and 35 inch tires so something like a moved filter wont hit the but dyno so hard. so like it or not the OP is putting down more power than most of you, simply due to your drivetrain loss.
Im sure Im missing a bunch but thats a start.
1 Cold Air intakes are 'real' they do work and give real world gains.
2 all these ghetto pvc intakes will look 100x better if you use abs instead of pvc.
3 Real performance cars do come with CAI 99.9% of them dont because they are loud.
no one denies the increase in sound. CAI, or any type of open element system will be very audible, which car companies dont like. the average car owner would wonder why their car makes noises, and why its so 'loud' car companies market a quiet ride. If you get rid of everything that quiets the intake it will add flow. the biggest problems with these on the 4.0, is you reuse the stock elbow. those ridges on the stock pipe alter the air flow, simply adding a silicone elbow with a hard pipe will flow.
next point is filter selection, like it or not the name brand filters have been proven time and again over ebay ones.
then you have surface area, which is far greater on a cone, over the stock flat filter. the stock system also has many unnecessary bends, the straighter the better.
so in theory the most powerful system would be a hood scoop with a straight pipe into the TB. now as far as functionality thats where we have to compromise, so trying to get the coldest air possible is key. first the vast majority of xjs will NOT be in water over the headlights. so most open element filters are ok. now back to the OP
by covering the filter he may limit flow, but by extending the pipe after, he may decreased temp, so it probably evens out. the best thing for the OP would be to leave it open and extend it as far into the corner as possible. slightly better than that would be to relocate the battery, and run a straight 3" pipe to the passenger side headlight corner. both sides will benefit greatly from heat shields. I dont think water is gonna be an issue for someone who "can really 'haul' on the interstate now"
As far as the OP's claims to power, I do not doubt what so ever he gained 10hp. the problem is where did he gain it? Most of you on this site have to realize that power to the wheels have to worry about drivetrain loss which is normally percentage based. so when you are losing A LOT of power due to your lift and 35 inch tires so something like a moved filter wont hit the but dyno so hard. so like it or not the OP is putting down more power than most of you, simply due to your drivetrain loss.
Im sure Im missing a bunch but thats a start.
Anyway, Im happy with this setup... can't beat the price! You could spend 200 on one of those idiotic K and N setups leaving filter hanging in the breeze or enclose it like this for a 1/4 of the price.. It really works, best thing is throttle body wow..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2000CHERO
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech
20
Oct 12, 2015 11:03 PM
Rotorhead
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
10
Aug 31, 2015 12:41 PM
Zerocyde
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
5
Aug 24, 2015 10:56 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




