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Oil Pan Removal

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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #1  
letsgomuddin's Avatar
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From: Lowell, MI
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Oil Pan Removal

Can I remove my oil pan with the engine in the Jeep?? It looks like I have the room but don't want to find out it wont clear by just a few inches or something like that. It's a 2001 XJ with 4" of lift.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #2  
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From: Trujillo Alto Puerto Rico
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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raise the jeep and put the jack stands on the frame so the axle drops. remove the starter and all the oil pan bolts. if you need extra space, remove the transmission bolts and raise the transmission
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #3  
letsgomuddin's Avatar
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From: Lowell, MI
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0
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Gotcha
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #4  
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From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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letsgomuddin,

Not too many folks will admit they had to remove a bunch of stuff to remove an oil pan because someone said "alls ya got to do is..."

To make a clean removal and reinstallation (without dicking up my oil pump pick-up), I jacked the front end up, removed both wheels, removed the starter, loosened the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe fitting, and disconnected the steering dampener at the drag link connection and moved it out of the way. Going back on with the oil pan I found that I had to remove the track bar bolt at the axle tube inorder to get enough clearance. Don't know why I didn't have to do this taking it out. Sort of like chinese handcuffs...the more you struggle, the tighter they get. LOL

Some say 'alls ya got to do is' jack the truck up and disconnect the front shocks and the front axle will drop down enough for clearance (didn't work for me). The FSM says to jack the engine up (never tried it).

If you get in a trick bag where to have to remove the track bar bolt at the axle tube, first get a ratcheting cargo tiedown strap and hook one end to the left frame rail (there's an oval hole in the outside surface of the rail near the left tire) and the other (ratcheting) end to the bottom of the right steering knucle. Ratchet the strap up until it's tight then go a little more. This will take the tension off the bolt (while the axle is off the ground). Keep the strap tight for reinstallation of the bolt.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #5  
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From: Lowell, MI
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Thank you for answering my question so precisely and thoroughly.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 04:10 PM
  #6  
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From: Canton, MI
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Where is Lowell, Mi? I live in Canton, MI.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #7  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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more lift you have the easier it is ...jm2cw...
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #8  
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Year: 95, 00
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I have a 2k XJ NOT lifted and I did almost the same as the first responder. Un-bolted the top of the shocks, jacked it up, put stands under the frame, loosened the trany mount, jacked up the trany, took the oil pan bolts out and it slid right off with about 1" of clearance on the oil pump pickup.

After reading the advice about the track bar though, I would probably go that way as putting it back in was a real PITA.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #9  
RestoRoc89's Avatar
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From: London, Ontario
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Before I lifted my XJ, I got away with unbolting the lower shock mounts on the front axle and unbolting the steering damper. I actually used a small bottle jack to force the axle down a touch more than it wanted to go in its own. Oh yeah, I also had the wheels, starter, complete exhaust system, transmission, clutch and flywheel removed for other maintenance...and it was still a pain!
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 06:36 AM
  #10  
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From: Lowell, MI
Year: 2001
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Lowell is 20 mins due east of Grand Rapids on M21
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