Hey guys! I've got a 99 cherokee, 4.0, 5 speed, 4x4, and i am trying to change my oil pan gasket. I removed all of the bolts, and the oil pan is free, but i can't get it out from under the jeep, there isn't enough clearance to get it past the front axle and the transmission bellhousing. I raised the vehicle by the frame, to let the front axle/suspension drop down to give me more clearance (its got a 2 inch lift btw), still not enough to get it out, i even tried disconnecting the lower end of the shocks, the sway bar links, and the track bar where it meets the axle, in order to let the front end drop even further, its close...but still not enough clearance! Any suggestions? I figured i may have to try to change the gasket with the pan still in there, i would really like to avoid that, because it doesn't look like that would be easy to do, and to get everything cleaned up before installation. Any ideas are appreciated! Thanks!

 

You might need to actually RAISE the front axle to get it to move forward just enough to get the pan to slide out. I did that on my '92 when I did the pump.

Put a jack under the front axle and slowly raise it. Drop it once the pan clears.

I found it's easier to clean the block surface, apply a thin bead of black RTV then use some of the oil-pan bolts to hold the gasket firmly to the block while you go inside and grab something to eat/drink for a while. Let the RTV firm up and hold the gasket to the block. Remove the bolts and reinstall the cleaned oil pan. If you try to install the gasket on the pan first, you will booger the gasket at the rear by the tranny.

Install it on the block.

 

Referencing a different post regarding thermostat gaskets: You should use gasket adhesive.

The RTV is used when you are trying to make up a gasket. Apparently using RTV can and does cause leaks. It's like double-gasketing an oil filter.

 

x2 Thin film of weather strip adhesive to hold gasket in place on pan with a fel pro blue best bet.

 

You can use small zip-ties to hold the gasket on the pan (use them on the corners, and then about every third hole)
Install the pan with a few bolts in the holes you didn't zip-tie loosely, then cut the zip ties one by one while inserting the rest of the bolts...............


Those Fel-Pro "Permadry Plus" molded silicone rubber gaskets are designed to be installed "Dry" for best results....................




You could also undo one of your motor mount bolts, and possibly lift the engine slightly to gain yourself a little more room..........
The oil pump is usually what causes it to hang up during pan removal......

 

Small zip ties not bad idea.

 

Fishing line works good too. As for the oil pan, you need to raise the front of the Jeep where you can let the front axle droop, not raise the axle itself.

 

I just did this this last weekend. (replaced rear main and oil pan gasket) to get the oil pan out I had to jack it up, I used where the lower control arm connects to the frame, and got it till my wheel was just coming off the ground. then I had to slide the pan forward, down, back. There is a baffle that the oil pump pick up sits under, and if you try to just pull it straight down it gets caught, but you pull it towards the front of the car a bit, it comes right off.

Oh ans x2 on the gasket adhesive. I used high tack that I got from auto zone, put a nice thick layer, let it sit for about 20 minutes, came back put the gasket on to that, let it sit a bit longer, then put the pan in. still had to fiddle with the gasket a bit since the gasket had lost some of its shape while in shipping, but wasn't too bad.

 

you can see where I placed the jack here: