using a way too big ratchet .. final turns on bolt / went past "tight" .. bolt now free spins in oil pan .. forward/reverse

ouch .. easy oil change turned into headache .. I usually do final snugging with light wrench .. going too fast obviously today

its not leaking .. but advice would be great

1. pry screwdriver under lip on bolt .. try to get thread engaged while backing out? ... if it backs out .. then how to fix?

2. drill it out .. bore new hole / thread it?

3. do you think I stripped the bolt or the pan threads ?

4. not sure what to do .. replacing pan looks rough .. expensive


5 .. buy crate remanufactured motor for xmas ? .. been looking into those .. 250k on mine

 

There are rubber drain plugs available for this situation. I have not tried them myself but it looks like it should work:


There are also oversized, self-tapping drain plugs available that are supposed to cut new threads:

 

I`d go with number 5

Drop the pan and weld on or have someone weld on, a new nut or replace the pan.

 

They used to make oversized oil pan plugs that you screwed then in and they made new threads as they went in guess they still have them, were sold in a pkg.

 

^^this, or the rubber ones. I've used both over the years.

 

Sounds like you broke the weld that holds the nut in the bottom of the oil pan. You'll be removing the oil pan to fix this one.

 

x2, if it spins freely without coming out, then it's not stripped, the welds broke. Even if you get the bolt out, your gonna want to remove the loose nut on the inside.

 

Your RMS is probably leaking anyways, buy a new pan and replace that while you are there.

 

This^^^ self drilling and self threading oversized are available for about every plug.

 

with all the leaks I have .. valve cover / rms / front under crank pulley gasket stickin out .. bad rebuild job I assume

new / reman engine would be cheaper I think

thoughts? I was quoted $500 on rms alone

OR .. drill a new hole .. thread it .. hope it works .. 2nd drain plug


I got 3k miles to consider options

250k miles .. something telling me .. do entire motor .. body is in great shape

 

does the AT drain bolt .. have welded nut inside too? AW4

diving into that next .. but with less strength

 

Tip...Try to see if it will crack just a little hair tighter before trying to remove it counter clockwise.

 

does not spin freely .. quite a bit of tension on it still .. using wrench, will turn about 3/4 the way around .. then stick .. then spin again

mechanic buddy said most likely threads stripped


anyways ... rear main seal getting a bit worse leak as the days go on .. maybe have shop fix all of that .. I dont have a space to do such work .. nor the time


I also looked at the boat drain plug looking / oil plugs .. twist it / expands to seal .. mentioned above also

how bout drilling a 2nd hole .. use rubber twisty plug .. or is pan-metal not thick enough to work?

thanks for inputs so far .. I got 3k miles to weigh my options

 

i would keep trying to get that plug unscrewed, then rethread for bigger bolt

 

Attempt to use a prybar or screwdriver to put tension on the bolt between it and the bolt. And use a ratcheting wrench or ratchet and socket.