oil pan drain bolt .. last crank tightening ..too much.. stripped? .. what to do?
#1
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
oil pan drain bolt .. last crank tightening ..too much.. stripped? .. what to do?
using a way too big ratchet .. final turns on bolt / went past "tight" .. bolt now free spins in oil pan .. forward/reverse
ouch .. easy oil change turned into headache .. I usually do final snugging with light wrench .. going too fast obviously today
its not leaking .. but advice would be great
1. pry screwdriver under lip on bolt .. try to get thread engaged while backing out? ... if it backs out .. then how to fix?
2. drill it out .. bore new hole / thread it?
3. do you think I stripped the bolt or the pan threads ?
4. not sure what to do .. replacing pan looks rough .. expensive
5 .. buy crate remanufactured motor for xmas ? .. been looking into those .. 250k on mine
ouch .. easy oil change turned into headache .. I usually do final snugging with light wrench .. going too fast obviously today
its not leaking .. but advice would be great
1. pry screwdriver under lip on bolt .. try to get thread engaged while backing out? ... if it backs out .. then how to fix?
2. drill it out .. bore new hole / thread it?
3. do you think I stripped the bolt or the pan threads ?
4. not sure what to do .. replacing pan looks rough .. expensive
5 .. buy crate remanufactured motor for xmas ? .. been looking into those .. 250k on mine
Last edited by dogkatcher; 10-17-2015 at 09:55 PM.
#2
Senior Member
There are rubber drain plugs available for this situation. I have not tried them myself but it looks like it should work:
There are also oversized, self-tapping drain plugs available that are supposed to cut new threads:
There are also oversized, self-tapping drain plugs available that are supposed to cut new threads:
#3
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1 9 9 5
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.0
I`d go with number 5
Drop the pan and weld on or have someone weld on, a new nut or replace the pan.
Drop the pan and weld on or have someone weld on, a new nut or replace the pan.
Last edited by nicksan; 10-17-2015 at 11:01 PM.
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Monett, MO.
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
They used to make oversized oil pan plugs that you screwed then in and they made new threads as they went in guess they still have them, were sold in a pkg.
#5
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,867
Received 1,525 Likes
on
1,237 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
x2, if it spins freely without coming out, then it's not stripped, the welds broke. Even if you get the bolt out, your gonna want to remove the loose nut on the inside.
Trending Topics
#10
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
with all the leaks I have .. valve cover / rms / front under crank pulley gasket stickin out .. bad rebuild job I assume
new / reman engine would be cheaper I think
thoughts? I was quoted $500 on rms alone
OR .. drill a new hole .. thread it .. hope it works .. 2nd drain plug
I got 3k miles to consider options
250k miles .. something telling me .. do entire motor .. body is in great shape
new / reman engine would be cheaper I think
thoughts? I was quoted $500 on rms alone
OR .. drill a new hole .. thread it .. hope it works .. 2nd drain plug
I got 3k miles to consider options
250k miles .. something telling me .. do entire motor .. body is in great shape
Last edited by dogkatcher; 10-18-2015 at 07:24 PM.
#11
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
does the AT drain bolt .. have welded nut inside too? AW4
diving into that next .. but with less strength
diving into that next .. but with less strength
#13
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
does not spin freely .. quite a bit of tension on it still .. using wrench, will turn about 3/4 the way around .. then stick .. then spin again
mechanic buddy said most likely threads stripped
anyways ... rear main seal getting a bit worse leak as the days go on .. maybe have shop fix all of that .. I dont have a space to do such work .. nor the time
I also looked at the boat drain plug looking / oil plugs .. twist it / expands to seal .. mentioned above also
how bout drilling a 2nd hole .. use rubber twisty plug .. or is pan-metal not thick enough to work?
thanks for inputs so far .. I got 3k miles to weigh my options
Last edited by dogkatcher; 10-19-2015 at 08:10 PM.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
does not spin freely .. quite a bit of tension on it still .. using wrench, will turn about 3/4 the way around .. then stick .. then spin again mechanic buddy said most likely threads stripped anyways ... rear main seal getting a bit worse leak as the days go on .. maybe have shop fix all of that .. I dont have a space to do such work .. nor the time I also looked at the boat drain plug looking / oil plugs .. twist it / expands to seal .. mentioned above also how bout drilling a 2nd hole .. use rubber twisty plug .. or is pan-metal not thick enough to work? thanks for inputs so far .. I got 3k miles to weigh my options