project_renix

Now let me start by saying that I started from the top of the engine down. Replaced the valve cover gasket, oil filter adapter housing gasket, distributor gasket, oil pan gasket, along with the rear main seal. My problem is that i am still leaking a good 2 quarts in about 100 miles. And there is still oil dripping off heavily from the back of the engine and out of the very front of the bellhousing in between the inspection cover. I looked at the drainage and it's definitely engine oil. My question is, what could it be if I replaced all of this? Could I have put the top half of the RMS in backwards? Would that cause that much oil loss?

Vehicle in question: 1987 Cherokee 4.0 auto.

Thanks,
Brandon

cruiser54

Sounds like you messed up when doing the rear main.

project_renix

That's what I was assuming. But I wanted to see if there was any input from the Cherokee community that i could look into.

project_renix

Like maybe I missed something. But im starting to really think that's what happened. I must have put the top half in upside down

DFlintstone

If you clean it well then watch right away, you should be able to see where it's coming from. I mean AT the car wash, and after one block. As soon as it blows around ...well you get the picture.

The oil filter adapter is a common culprit. It can blow right back and Look like the RM. Also if the front vent on the valve cover is not free to vent through it's 1/2 inch tube, crankcase pressure can make the RM pee like a big dog...

OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/

project_renix

Thank you for your input. Now is that front vent replaceable? Cuz mine is pretty well old and dry. And if the oil filter adapter o-rings were bad, wouldn't it be wet around the base of the adapter? Cuz mine isn't wet in that area... its just dumping oil from the inside of the bellhousing/ back of the block. I will try the front vent. But if that doesn't stop it, is it safe to assume that the RM is probably in backwards?

zfranklin92

Rear main seals are directional. Sounds like you put it in wrong. If its coming out that fast that's the only seal in the rear that seals against pressure which would leak that fast. The lip faces toward the center of the engine so when pressure hits the seal it forces it onto the crank. If its the other way, pressure pushes the seal up and the oil goes right out

project_renix

That's what i was thinking. Thank you for all you're guy's input

DFlintstone

Yes. If it's stock (not a kinked flex-hose, or clogged aftermarket filter), that is unlikely to be your problem. I put some Napa # in my signature.
Just be sure it's not leaking from above! Best of luck...

project_renix

I only have access on my phone, so sig's aren't showing up :/

DFlintstone

Renix Vacuum Harnesses
The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting is Napa part number BK 715-1367
The vacuum harness that is closest to the air cleaner, EGR etc is Napa part number BK-715-1366.
As of 09-09-2012, they sell for $23.85 each.

project_renix

Well, we can all relax now. The oil leak issue has been fixed, the rear main I installed, was installed backwards. Thank you for all of your help. Now im going to go cry in shame. Lol

ryan_lerv

Did you pull the motor to do the oil pan and rear main? I need to do mine and it looks like you have to pull the motor

project_renix

The motor does not be to be pulled. The easiest way I found on here and by trial was to start by

1: disconnect the battery and remove the starter
2: unbolt the front shocks from the axle
3: disconnect the drag link from the steering box
4: disconnect the Trac-bar from the mount on the unibody
5: Jack the jeep up by the frame. Disconnecting all of the listed items should give you enough wiggle room and clearance to remove the pan.
6: remove all the bolts from the oil pan and remove it from the block. While the pan is off, I suggest cleaning at least the inside of it with brake cleaner and wipe it out with a lint free towel.
7: remove the 7th main cap. Half of your rear main seal will be in the main cap, the other half is inside the block.
8: take a small brass punch and wrap it in electrical tape to keep from scratching the crank.(duct tape works too.) lightly tap on the old upper half of the main seal until enough pokes out the other side to grab with pliers. Continue to remove the old seal.
9: place new rear main seal in the main cap.
10: before you put the new seal in the block, I suggest putting liquid dish soap on the new seal to help it slide in. Install the new seal half in the block.
11: tighten the main cap to 80 ft.lbs.

To assemble everything read from 6 back to 1 and voila! You've just done a rear main seal on your 4.0 liter.

cruiser54

Only if it's a 4 cylinder......

Have you used my oil leak diagnostic write-up yet to CONFIRM it's the rear main seal?