quick question for you guys. in order to change the oil filter housing gasket would i have to drain the oil? really not trying to until next week when i do my rear main seal and oil pan gasket but it leaks worst there so just trying to maintain till then. thanks so much you guys are always great help!

 

No, you dont have to drain the oilpan.

 

You will lose some oil though. It would be best to do them all at once but if you cant make sure you remove the filter and cover it so it doesnt get dirty while it out. I dunno what kinda gasket the oil housing uses but if you need to scrap any old material make sure you put a rag in the holes to prevent and dirt from fallin in. Lastely check the oil level when your done!

 

they are 3 o-rings. . Only the oil that it's in the oil filter will be lost.

 

good luck breaking that bolt loose if i remember right its a t55 socket and i had to hammer the t55 bit out of the socket and use a wrench on it because it is atight area, it is torqued at 100 foot pounds from the factory so it sucks to get off

 

wow. the dumb b!tch at autozone assured me over and over it was one o ring so thats what i got. ima just take it off and see what im working with. then yell at her if its wrong. thanks alot you guys. pics would be nice if you can find some

 

I am planning to do it myself Bro but some say it take some muscle to do it. please keep us posted on the outcome.
Thank you and all the best on that.

 

yeah had to mod the t55 socket by cutting the base of it because that w/ a 1/2 ratchet w/ a cheater bar wouldnt fit in the tight area

 

thought so its been awhile since i did one

 

and the question should be what kind of gasket? I keep finding a few too many different types.

edit: nvm. I guess I'm that rook. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...ng-pics-73437/

 

First I ordered this http://www.jeep4x4center.com/oil-fil...33002970k.html it's the cheapest I could find, even though shipping cost almost as much as the o rings themselves, but still cheap. And because the stealership decided that any part I needed they would declare it as backordered.... Anyways I then bought a 1/2" breaker bar put on my 5/8" socket, I have a 90 so I lucked out and didn't have to mess with the torc bit, and then after struggling to get it to break loose for about the whole day, I found out that my jack handle splits in half so I used that as a cheater bar.. Threw it over the breaker bar and BAM it broke loose like it was nothing!
I hope this helps.

 

It's a T60 Torx bit BTW. At least it was on the last 2 I did. Make sure the Torx bit fits tightly before applying any pressure loosening things or you'll strip the bolt and be really screwed.

 

Just did mine last weekend. 1993 xj. Used a 9/16 hex. Warm the motor up leave the filter on use a cheater and popped right off. No mas oil leaky.

 

I wonder if his 95 is a 9/16 hex?

 

my local O'Reilly store had a couple of kits in stock, so lucky me.

I got the torx bits from Pep Boys. the biggest they had in stock was a T-55, and they're all preformed into single sockets, thus making them the shortest of all the torx bits available and easier to use in a tight space even with the engine housing bolt removed.

I used a long Craftsman ratchet that has a small head which is also perfect, fitted the T55 into the bolt head,, then slipped a 3/4" box wrench over the handle for a better torque. just a simple effort while hanging onto whatever bar I could reach and pulling on the wrench did the trick.

guess I got away lucky. I was careful choosing the torx bits at Pep Boys as I knew the difference in what they're made of, and got the strongest bits even though they were cheaper.

evidently not, although I wish it was!!!

on the hassle of putting the adapter back on, just be sure to leave the bolt loose in the adapter, thus screwing it into the engine block which is the easiest part of the process, surprisingly. then finish the rest of the job with the bit/ratchet. just make sure the adapter aligns with the roll pin as you tighten down the bolt.

I have read somewhere that the adapter was totally unnecessary at all since the filter can also fit directly into the block. I could have gone that route but don't want to have to wipe the oily mess off the underside of the engine everytime I swap the filters out. the point being that you won't need to have to remove the adapter again for another 100k miles, unless it starts leaking again if you botched up the o-ring swap job.