I haven't seen one of those that look like a allen. But it would probably work good if the bend is tight enough in it and you just make sure you keep it straight.But heck if you have allready changed yours it probably not as bad the second time around. Your experienced now. hell their never any fun and hated it but its not bad now. That I take a big enough weapon to fight with.

 

I found this online...10-12 buck. The length of the L portion is supposed to be only 1 1/2" so I'm thinking it may work.

 

They sell em on ebay like that and it would not fit on mine. I Cut the short bend off and welded it to a piece of flat bar about 12" long. Made it very easy to get out.

 

Follow-up: Tools (an where to get them) to aid in getting the oil filter adapter off.

Several people have written me for the follow-up I promised in post #9 of this thread, but never delivered. Here is some of what I have collected, alas without any photos, but I think it will still save all of us 6-cyl owners some major headaches.

Why is this odd oil filter adapter bolt so difficult to remove??!!

The Torx/hex filter adapter bolt is a devil to get out because the factory used Loctite Red (permanent hold) thread locking compound when they installed it. That's why it takes so much force to get it loose.

What is the most direct and cheap way to get the bolt free?

Other owners have posted solutions with tools, but often without giving the tool maker name and/or part numbers. I had trouble obtaining the tools described. Below find a complete list of tools that will work as well or even better than any mentioned thus far in other posts, cheaper too. Both the Torx and the hex version of tools are listed. Choose the one that matches your engine's adapter bolt. If you go ape and take a Sawz-All and cut the bolt, the Mopar P/N of the Torx version can also be found below, along with P/N for the o-ring set.

After doing my wife's 1996 Grand Cherokee and helping other with the same problem, I recommend the L-shaped Torx or hex key with a 2' length of 1/2" water pipe for an extension handle (to boost the mechanical advantage) over a socket wrench and Torx socket. There is just too little clearance to the frame with a socket, while the L-shaped Torx T60 or 9/16" hex key fits neatly. Another method that easily clears the frame is removing the Torx T60 bit from the socket base and use a 14" or 18" pipe wrench to turn the Torx bit without the socket base. A lumber wedge between the frame and the L-shaped key wrench or pipe wrench keeps the wrench/bit forced tight into the bolt, saving smashed knuckles, and neatly protects the frame's paintwork.

Taking the starter off first really helps by giving more tool clearance and working room. Be sure to disconnect the battery before commencing any work.


BILL-OF-MATERIALS
----------------------

Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings, Set of 3 $6.40 Mopar P/N 04720363

Oil Filter Adapter to Engine Block Bolt T60 Torx $27.14 Mopar P/N 53020237

Sunex International 12 Pc. Internal Torx Socket Set - T10 Thru T60 P/N 1820S

Ace Hardware open stock T60 Torx 3/8 drive socket, Ace stock number 2094951
Bondhus Torx key T60 angle wrench, P/N 31860 or 32860
http://www.bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body38.htm
Eklind Torx key T60 ball-end angle wrench, Elkind P/N15060, available from WW Grainger as P/N 2CXZ5 about $8.75
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2CXZ5
http://www.eklindtool.com/
Sears Craftsman 4 pc. Large Torx Bit SAS T27 and T47 in 3/8 Drive and T55 and T60 in 1/2 in. Drive Item# 00934487000 Model# 34487 $39.99
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=torx
Snap-On Torx T60 socket 1/2 drive, P/N STX60 $32.75
-or-
Snap-On Torx T60 replacement bit, P/N STX60E2 $10.00
S-K Torx T60 socket 1/2 drive, P/N 45560

Bondhus 9/16" hex key L-shaped long length x 9" long, P/N 12117 or 13917 $7.50
http://www.bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body31.htm
Eklind 9/16" hex key L-shaped long series x 9" long, P/N 15236 about $9
http://www.eklindtool.com/
OTC Allen 9/16" hex key L-shaped long length, x 9" long, P/N 7357, about $18
Snap-On Allen 9/16" hex key L-shaped, P/N AWL18D

Sears Craftsman Socket Caps
Item# 00943303000 Model# 43303 $10.99
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=socket+cap

Total tool investment: about $12 and for American-made tools.

My experience has been the two small o-rings on the adapter are usually in good shape, but the big o-ring around the perimeter of the adapter is hard and/or brittle.

Feel free to email if you have any questions. After you finish, please let me know if this info helped and if you have any suggested revisions or improvements on what I provided above. Good luck!


JP Callan
Portland, Oregon

 

my buddie welded a nut on this socket from autozone . it worked perfectly, total investment 5.99 plus tax and a spare nut laying around. We cut some of it off so it wouldnt be too long.

 

This thread was/is great! I will go back under the hood tomorrow armed with much needed info.

Does one need to use a loctite on the T60 bolt?


Thanks a ton!

 

Hello all-just wanted to say THANK YOU SO MUCH for all the info, part #s, and tools needed to fix this annoying issue. Getting mine fixed tomorrow after 6 months of frustration. Still can't thank you enough!!!

 

no loc tight is needed

 

I have to disagree with the previous post about not using Loctite. Using Loctite on the Torx bolt is a good practice, but use medium-strength formulation (blue) instead of the high-strength (red). I used Loctite #243 oil-resistant blue, which can be had from any auto parts store.

The bolt was originally sealed in place at the factory with a high-strength Loctite red; that is why we have this entire thread discussing the difficulty in removing the oil filter adapter. It only makes common sense to ensure the repaired oil filter adapter doesn't work itself free and let loose with all the engine oil.

 

awesome thread!! big oil leak (more then just the rear main seal) and this helped me, will post pics of it in my build thread i guess. thanks all!

 

Glad it worked for you! hi5

I did this not long ago and I would say putting the lift on was easier.

 

Here's how I finally dealt with this thing after failing at all the suggested methods. I took my Sawz-All and cut across the adapter right at the spot where the red line is drawn.



No need to go all the way thru as you just want to cut the head off the bolt that holds it on.



Once the bolt head is cut off the whole adapter will just pull off in your hand and the remainder of the bolt unscrews by hand. I replaced it with another adapter I got at the junkyard from a Grand Cherokee which have a good 6 inches of room to get at these things so the come off WAY easier than the XJ ones!

 

Just go to a jeep dealer. They have it for like 5 bucks. That where I got mine from. I think this is a common Jeep problem so they still have them at the dealers.

 

Ordered the Torx L key and Loctite blue threadlocker to do mine.

I got a whole set of Torx bits and then realized it can't fit . Then to make things worse, I dropped the bit and it vanished.

I don't have the whole set of rings though. I went to NAPA and they just had the single big ring. Don't feel like waiting for delivery so I'll probably just replace the big one, and only worry about the internal rings if they look bad.

Instead of soaking the O ring in motor oil, how about soaking in silicone oil or silicone grease?? Would that make it last longer?

 

Yea the only ring that was bad on mine was the big one. The internal ones were still fine, but since i bought the kit i went ahead and replaced them anyways.
Do you really need the loctite? because when I did mine i didnt use any loctite.