Oil Filter Adapter Leak

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Apr 29, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
Hello All,

I think I've got a pretty good leak coming from the oil filter adapter on my 99 XJ. I did some research and was trying to do it myself. I got some Mopar replacement O-rings. I got the T60 torx and hammered out the socket piece. I cleaned out the torx part of bolt. and I've got a 2 foot cheater bar.

But how in the world do you get this thing off? Any recommendations?
I've been trying to loosen it from the bottom. Do you need to let it run and warm up?

Here's the Wrench I was trying to use, haha. Do I just need a better wrench?




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Apr 29, 2018 | 07:33 PM
  #2  
Hmmm. That's ugly. I used a cheapo wrench on the torx bit, and didn't have any problem on my 97. No cheater bar needed.

Are you sure you are going the correct direction? It's an easy mistake to make when you are working at an odd angle. Yes, it's a dumb thing to do. I've done it plenty of times, so I know it's really dumb!
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Apr 29, 2018 | 07:33 PM
  #3  
it will
I just did mine and it will make you work at it. I used another pry bar to keep the torx pushed into its hole square then gave the wrench a hard pull, with a cheater on mine also, and it gave loose. Come or bleed time
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Apr 29, 2018 | 07:38 PM
  #4  
Heat is your friend
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Apr 30, 2018 | 07:37 AM
  #5  
Quote: Heat is your friend

Not at that location, unless you want to cook some oil in the passages.
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Apr 30, 2018 | 03:38 PM
  #6  
Skip the torch and let the engine do the work. Hit the highway for a couple miles and tackle the adapter while the engine is still warm. Disconnect the battery to avoid any accidental arching if youre going at it from underneath. Its happened.
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Apr 30, 2018 | 07:42 PM
  #7  
Quote: Skip the torch and let the engine do the work. Hit the highway for a couple miles and tackle the adapter while the engine is still warm. Disconnect the battery to avoid any accidental arching if youre going at it from underneath. Its happened.
that's what I did, right after running it for a bit
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Apr 30, 2018 | 07:50 PM
  #8  
I used a 17" breaker bar and a flarenut crowfoot. I also removed the starter. Came right off.

From underneath it turns from the back to the front to remove.

The shank on a T60 should be 12mm I think. I may not recall correctly though.


-T.
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Apr 30, 2018 | 08:17 PM
  #9  
You need one of those ratcheting box end wrenches on the T60 bit, I used a Husky, and then a section of cheater pipe over that about 10 inches long. My torx bit I cut down was bigger than the 10mm you are using, I had a 10mm they just cant get enough torque. Ended up buying a whole set from AZ, had a stout 12mm t60.
They are assembled with red Locktite. Is what you're up against. Do it from the top. No need to pull the starter.
It is worth it though even tho it's a 2 day PITA, when you go uphill and dont smell oil.
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