Mine is a '93 also - it takes a 9/16 hex.


I did mine about 10 years ago, looks like it's time to do it again. I don't recall it being very easy, not looking forward to doing it again on my next oil change.


EDIT - Did mine this weekend. Went from below with a long 9/16 hex wrench and a 2' cheater bar. Took about 10 minutes to get it off, change the rings and put it back on.

 

are yall putting any loctite on the bolt going back in?

 

I did not on my green jeep 2 years ago or my red jeep 1 month ago.

 

Previous owner stripped my bolt. Ended up having to cut it off with Sawzall. What a royal pain.

 

Wondering, It's been a while since I did mine. May have to do it again. I forgot what was involved. But is that whole adapter setup necessary. At the time I did not check it out. But at the junk yard, I see many at different positions than mine. I mean will the oil filter bolt up to the section without the oil adapter. Is there a reason its there except to pissss us off and to make the oil filter in a different position? Or is it a matter that a filter will not bolt up and there is a clearance problem? Or is it a matter of oil flow?

 

There is a current or recent thread about eliminating the adapter. As I recall, only reason not to do it is potential clearance problems.

 

I've changed those orings on various jeeps. none of them were a huge pain as described. I'm only 6' 200lbs but I've yet to cross a bolt on my jeep that either didn't break loose or just break.

 

Pelican you can eliminate it but do to clearance you'll need to run a smaller filter.

 

What all do I have to do to eliminate it?

 

What do I have to do to eliminate it?

 

When I eliminated mine on my 98 once i got the adapter off i pulled the threaded nipple out of the adapter. There is a pin in the block that was there to keep the adapter in the proper position. That needs to be pulled from the block. Once that's done screw threaded nipple from adapter into block. The perfect size filter is anything that is equivalent to fram size TG3614. Just screw the filter on to the threaded nipple straight to the block. Just be sure to buy a better filter than the fram as it will be working overtime. I found out how to do it on this forum. just use the search.

 

Good luck with that bolt i tried for 4 hours and said fine keep the oil leak

 

The first link notes that you dont have to drain the oil, is it true? It makes sense thinking about it since all the oil should be down below, but just wanting to verify. Never really thought about it before.

 

No you do not have to drain the oil. All the oil wasted is in the filter.

 

awesome, good to know.