My oil filter adapter gasket is bad and I can't get the bolt loose for anything is there anything else I can do to stop the leak?

 

yes , take it to a shop & let them change the o-rings. thats what i had to do,i could not get the bolt loose. theres no other way to stop the leak , that i know of ? the parts are maybe $4.00, a shop should charge a 1 hr labor rate, cost me $94.00 it was worth it to stop the leak & not have to fool w/ it myself. its do it yourself doable , but not easy.

 

I have a serpentine belt tool which has a long bar with a 3/8" square drive on the end. I put the socket on the end of that and went at it from below. The bolt is tight, you'll need something long to break it loose.

 

I broke a Matco wrench trying to get that bolt loose.

 

I pulled the torx bit out of a Gearwrench torx socket, fitted a box end 6pt Craftsman wrench on the torx bit, as well as a 3' cheater pipe fitted over the box wrench to get mine off. I did it from below. Pretty easy actually. I could probably change one out in 5-10 minutes.

 

Damn nice I snapped 4 ratchets and snapped a 4 foot breaker bar

 

Try starting and heating up the engine before you start. Forget using ratchets. I don't understand how you would have clearance to use one in the first place. Use a 6pt wrench and a long cheater pipe, while insuring the T60 torx bit stays firmly in place(wedge in a piece of wood or similar object). It should come out.

 

What year? Wrench varies by year. I think there may be three variations; I know my '93 requires a hex but don't remember size right offhand.

 

There might be stuff in these links that might help> OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/

 

Mine was a torx bolt. I couldn't find a torx bit at the local HD etc. Ordered it on line. I ended up welding the torx bit to an end of a flat bar. Actually went to the local community college and asked if they'd weld it. They did. I gave them old jeep hoods, other metal in the past so I got a favor. Students there will do it for the practice too if you don't have the equipment or talent (my problem) to weld.

It was a bugger to get to that bolt. I basically hung on to the undercarriage and used my foot to break it loose. What a stupid bleep design !

 

The Duralast stuff at Auto Zone is actually pretty good for this stuff. The T-60 cost about $5-6. I tried that wrench on the driver bit, but there was too much slop on my pipe to do much good. But then again, I didn't even jack up the front end.

 

It's a 92 and I will try to hear it up first

 

I wonder if that WD40 new stuff called "Rust Release Penetrant, Blu Torch Technology" would help. I used it on exhaust manifold bolts, old clamps etc and sprayed several times. Kept spraying. Let it soak in a while. Spray again. After about 3 or 4 or how ever many times, usually broke loose. Worth $6 to find out. Home Depot, AZ, Walmarts all have it. I use it a lot. Now using it to break free a rusted sprinkler valve. Spraying it about 6 times now.
Try it. Might help.

 

I knocked the torx bit out of a socket and used the box end of a 12mm wrench on it. then put another wrench on the open end. it worked just fine.

 

I only weigh 130,and with a 2ft cheater bar I could barely get it loose. I used a set of torx L wrenches from Harbor Freight, and a 2ft section of pipe.
Heated the **** out of the bolt with a torch and it finally came out.

The damn bolt was so rusty that I stripped the torx indentations on the bolt while putting it back in. If your bolt is loose, I would highly suggest getting a junkyard pull that is in better condition so you don't even have to worry about it. I got mine tight enough and it hasn't leaked in about 10k miles though.