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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #16  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Put a 195 stat in it.

As for the 4wd not engaging, here's two things.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/

What's your oil pressure when warm at idle and then at speed?
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 09:01 PM
  #17  
$200xjbuild's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Put a 195 stat in it.

As for the 4wd not engaging, here's two things.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/

What's your oil pressure when warm at idle and then at speed?
Oil pressure hot at idle=20psi cold=40psi at speed=about 35
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 09:30 PM
  #18  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by $200xjbuild
I have been having issues where the engine itself is overheating but upon inspection I found out the thermostat never opened the radiator loop. So I did take it out and it now doesn't even seem to climb past 150 and I'm happy with that as I live in a fairly hot climate so should never be cold blooded. Also while I was under the hood I wired the electric fan to a toggle switch. Seems to be pretty happy. On to the next problem no 4wd but this is a simple issue I belive. Just cracked vaccum line.What is average oil psi on a 4.0? Thanks
Youre gonna do more harm than good with no thermostat dude. Get a 195 mopar one in there
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Youre gonna do more harm than good with no thermostat dude. Get a 195 mopar one in there
What harm would it do if I resolved the overheating issue?
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 09:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by $200xjbuild
What harm would it do if I resolved the overheating issue?
Solved the overheating issue...no you masked it.

Cruiser have fun. Im out
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Solved the overheating issue...no you masked it.

Cruiser have fun. Im out
I dunno its been converted to open loop cooling and we took out T-stat. Before the old T-stat which was replaced after head gasket. Was way too high temp and that is how the first head gasket blew. Now correct me if I'm wrong but just removing the T-stat just let's coolant constantly flow threw the radiator. As far as I know the only con's to removing it is that the heat may take longer to warm. And on my oil pressure issue. My oil may be lower viscosity since I cranked it so much without any spark and it was spraying fuel the whole time. So this may improve with an oil and filter change.
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 10:31 PM
  #22  
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Oil pressure is good.

Put a 195 stat in.
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #23  
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First week in automotive mechanic class...

http://www.answers.com/Q/Why_does_an...d_a_thermostat
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 10:58 PM
  #24  
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 04:49 AM
  #25  
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Does anybody know what the temperature is when the ecm goes into closed loop. And back on the thermostat i will get one but will it be allright for a month of summer driving? Average temps are about 70* where I'm at so idk
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 07:33 AM
  #26  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Originally Posted by $200xjbuild
Does anybody know what the temperature is when the ecm goes into closed loop. And back on the thermostat i will get one but will it be allright for a month of summer driving? Average temps are about 70* where I'm at so idk
Renix doesn't go into closed loop based on temp.

It's not gonna "hurt" anything driving with no stat.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 08:30 AM
  #27  
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Ah, didn't realize it was for a renix. OP, on newer xjs. Running no stat, even in the 70* weather, would keep the jeep sensor cold and possible have incorrect data brought to the jeep. Running lean. Possible clogging O2 sensors, Cat, etc. stat holds a good amount of importance. Now cruiser will confirm with renix if youll still run very lean without one. I still agree with cruiser, get a mopar 195 stat
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 08:32 AM
  #28  
cruiser54's Avatar
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You run a bit rich.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 09:06 AM
  #29  
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By removing Tstat you proved it was not opening.
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