Definitely no squirt, drizzled out.
I'll replace the pump again and see what happens.

 

I'll refresh the grounds while I'm at it, I'm sure it could use it anyway.

 

Do the complete ground refreshing!!

 

F'er started right up yesterday while on batt charger. It did NOT need juice prior to that, the day before, when it failed. this is bs!

Cruiser, what other grounds besides that dipstick tube one are you referring too. even tho it ran yesterday, it might not this morning.

edit: OH BIG SHOCK!....iT doesnt! how unexpected of it. mder fderj!

 

Ill just through this out there....
My renix was dead for 3 months due to a dead ecu under the dash. If you have any switches you installed yourself anywhere on the dash be careful, one little zap from a wire will fry that thing...i learned the hard way :x

Just saying, may not be the issue but keep it in mind when theres wires chillin down there! My prev owned decided to let alot of his excess wire hang and it helped fry the ecu lol

 

[QUOTE=bullheimer;1857087]F'er started right up yesterday while on batt charger. It did NOT need juice prior to that, the day before, when it failed. this is bs!

Cruiser, what other grounds besides that dipstick tube one are you referring too. even tho it ran yesterday, it might not this morning.

edit: OH BIG SHOCK!....iT doesnt! how unexpected of it. mder fderj!


Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 11-28-2011

 

cool and thanks, i intend to do all of the above.

i noticed my negative battery cable is attached to this same dipstick stud behind the distributor tho. i took it apart and cleaned and not until i put my charger on did it start, so it must have been not getting a good enuf charge from my charger (year old battery), so i cleaned the batt terminal and cable. although it looked clean on the outside, no fuzz or any dirt, inside it wasn't very clean. after an hour being off the charger it still starts. that might have been it all along. however i still am going to order all those napa cables and put them on. thanks again.

hey OP, whaazzzup?

 

[QUOTE=bullheimer;1858211]cool and thanks, i intend to do all of the above.

i noticed my negative battery cable is attached to this same dipstick stud behind the distributor tho. i took it apart and cleaned and not until i put my charger on did it start, so it must have been not getting a good enuf charge from my charger (year old battery), so i cleaned the batt terminal and cable. although it looked clean on the outside, no fuzz or any dirt, inside it wasn't very clean. after an hour being off the charger it still starts. that might have been it all along. however i still am going to order all those napa cables and put them on. thanks again.

That's an excellent plan. Please report back.

 

i'm reporting back....but not after buying all the cables. been busy, but i tried to start it this a.m. and nothing. put the charger on it, started right away.

it tries to start at a pretty good clip and can't, but with the 40A charge on it, it does crank faster and then starts. so i'm wondering if my batt has crapped out, even tho it seems to hold a charge. it has been dieing after about 3-4 good long start attempts tho. and it only has 420 cold cranking amps. i am wondering if that is enough. would the cables make any difference if my engine isn't cranking hard enough?

my chevy would start up in half the cranking time even at the slower speed it is cranking w/o the charger though.

 

Only 420 cca? Im sure my renix is like 550 atleast cca to start...

 

Sounds like the battery is crapping out, or maybe your starter is dying. Is your starter oil soaked by any chance?. I think my MJ has only a 400CCA or so battery in it and it fires right off.

 

last summer when i got this thing i smeared aluminum Anti Oxidant (for aluminum range and service wires), all over my lead battery terminals, thinking it had to be good. well it obviously isn't so hot on lead. i cleaned it off and used the terminal cleaner brush on the pos terminal yesterday and it started right up today, and every time i've driven it. i haven't ruled out the crappy battery posibility, but i am thinking it wasn't able to fully accept a charge before i cleaned up both terminals. weird, but still starting. got to wonder if this goop is a good idea as i just smeared the same stuff all over my other trucks terminals too.

 

That's interesting. You could always have your battery load tested but maybe you're okay for now.

 

went to Pacific Power battery and they said my batts only puttin out 300 cranking amps. that the straight six calls out for 500. that would explain it in my case. still think the ecu reseat put me on the road to repair. wouldn't start w or w/o the charger on it before that.

UPDATE, again a no start and this time i changed the cables. noticed my pos cable had oxidized so cut off about two inches of that, but more importantly the Firewall to intake cable suggested above; i got the cable and just replaced the one from the firewall to the block on the drivers side there, replacing that wire mesh with the Napa p/n cruiser listed (did both actually) and the bolt holding the cable onto the firewall had corrosion on both the threads and under the head. i used a sandstone on a dremmel tool and cleaned both it and the firewall up. after these things the jeep started right up whereas it would NOT start this a.m. even while ON THE CHARGER.
so CUDO'S TO CRUISER FOR THE FIX. i am positive this is THE fix i'been lookin for.

 

Hey everyone,
SORRY it took so long for me to reply. I thought I had checked back already but I found the problem;
I tested the cps and it read .2 acv so I replaced that with a mopar cps and still no start. This one still only read .4 acv.
Well I kept thinking, check fuel pressure so I did and there was none. :O So I was going to return the new fuel pump I had put on the day before, thinking it was faulty. After I pulled the fuel sender I saw the little hose that connects the pump to the sender was really loose, I touched it and it fell off O_O
Before trying a new one, I tightened everything down nice and snug, popped it back in and what do ya know, it started right up!

Thanks again for all the help guys.