haven't checked the new output yet

 

And the new cps output tests at an amazing 0.1 acv

 

Just called a jeep dealership in my town and they said they discontinued crank position sensors for my jeep!

EDIT: That guy I talked to didn't know what he was taking about. Found the mopar part# online and called a different dealership, going down tomorrow and they'll have it the following day. $58

 

What you could do is make your old CPs "adjustable" by drilling out one of the mounting holes on the sensor just a little larger and holding it closer to the flex plate while you tighten it for vac output
Also I think you have renix( I am on mobile I can't tell) so you should clean the contacts that the pins on the cool drop into icu

 

I think he's best off with a Mopar unit but should check it's output and post back. I'm curious.

Here's what to do with the ICU/coil contacts and it's just good maintenance.

Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
　
　
The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.
　
Revised 11-29-2011

 

have you checked fuel pressure? can turn pump on and press valve on fuel rail if its hissing air and barely any fuel thats your problem, or get a hold of a pressure gauge and do it proper if not all ready

 

when i first got mine it didnt run anymore after just having plugs changed. all i did to start it was remove and re-connect the connectors to the ICU and like magic it ran for 3 months, no issues. then it wouldnt start again. re-connecting did nothing. so i bought a new icu. zip. i am getting voltage at the pins on the connectors tho. i removed and sprayed carb cleaner in the part next to where the fuel injector gets it's air, i think it's the Throttle Position sensor and it started and ran for a whole day. i would try that too. maybe it will work.

in the meantime it stopped starting again! i am going to remove the brain under the dash and re-seat that connector, and hopefully..... maybe you should try that too. anybody else got anything else to try? like what are the odds it's the ECM/ECU anyway?

and.... in case any trolls try to tell me i am "hijacking" this thread let me say in advance to just STFU! i am NOT starting a new thread just to repeat the same things that are posted here over and over again, in fact mr. moderator, why don't you gather up all the info on all these hundred "engine wont start' threads and make up a sticky, and do something productive for a change?

 

HAHA^

hey guys i reccomend listening to this guy

 

Whoa... Ease off the coffee. We're all friends here...

 

This never hurts and can only help.
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and adding dielectric grease before plugging it back together. Be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then dielectric grease should be added before plugging them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 03/15/2012

 

yea! well guess what. i finally found the brain, right under the dash, and whatta royal PITA it was to take out! i had to use every 1/4" drive extention and also a hand 1/4 driver. and there aint no way i could figure out how to get all the bolts back in either. had to remove the bottom of the dash panel to get to it. it SUCKED!!!! had to remove all that other crap on there too, the yellow box (cruise control box, which has three adjustment pots on it btw), the velcro mounted thing (windshield wiper control), and the worst was the a/c vent under the steering wheel.

re-seated the connectors and: first time, NOTHING! second time, NOTHING! well you know what they say....THIRD TIME'S THE CHARM!!! started right up right when i was gonna throw in the towel!!! took them off again and sprayed them with contact cleaner and blew it out with compressed air, (undid the battery but don't think it makes a diff, but just to be on the safe side). i wouldnt recommend brushing or even touching any of the pins in these connectors, and no conductive grease either, just no room! must be thirty frikken pins on the longer connector and 20 or so on the smaller one. real nightmare this thing. hard to get the connectors out too, had to pry gently on each side about twenty times each. DONT pry one end all the way off or you will end up with bent pins.

and FWIW, the engine will start and run without reinstalling the ECM back under the dash, so it does NOT depend on the mounting screws for a ground.

hey OP, i hope you get yours going too. i knew it had to be electrical since it made no sense whatsoever on running or not, then running again. stupid jeep. i will do as the previous poster says, now that i have a new bottle of contact cleaner and clean the fk out of everything i can find under there. oh yeah, before when i also changed out my crank sensor, i was not getting anywhere near the 5Volts from either my old OR my brand new unit. needless to say, it didn't do anything to replace it in my case. it might in yours. but it ran when i re-seated the IC. who knows, maybe if i measured it now that it's running it might actually read 5, or .5, or whatever the hell its spozed to be. getting to THOSE screws sucked royally too. is there anything on these things that's EASY to fix?

time for beer. now that i know it runs (for how long tho, nobody knows), i have a ton of front wheel maintenance to do tomorrow. for a 89 that was NEVER taken off road, this rig is sure beat to slit.

Have A Nice Day (btw: #1 fix for any electronic gear on any navy plane is a re-seat on a ckt card). Thought i was on too much coffee before, just let me get my POS back on the road after two weeks!! yeeeeeeeehaaaaw!

o yeah, one last thing. Cruiser? WTF does RENIX mean? I see it everywhere, know it's got something to do with certain years, like mine and yours, but clue me in. I GOTS T'KNOW!

 

Renix was the fuel injection system. It was developed by RENault and bendIX.

This is not the first time I've heard of refreshing the connections at the ECU solving problems.
It's also a good idea to tweak the female connectors with a small pick so they grab the pins tighter.

Also, you are correct that the mounting screws for the ECU do not provide it's ground. That ground is at the engine dipstick tube stud. That's why i'm always carping about refreshing the grounds.

FWIW, the ECU comes out much easier without any of the disassembly you did if you use a ratcheting wrench.

And BTW, congratulations on your fix. I'm not surprised as I've seen this kind of stuff before.
Hence my mantra: RCBRC.......Refresh Connections Before Replacing Components.

 

Installed the mopar cps and still no start. It was pulling only .3 acv still! Maybe my meter is off?

I decided to check the fuel pressure and a little gas came out but NO pressure at all. I had just installed a new fuel pump from rock auto the day before my jeep went down so I think I'll swap that out.....again.

And I haven't gotten around to refreshing the icu yet but I just did it when I swapped out the coil a few weeks ago.

 

Think it's a bad pump?

 

You should have gas squirt out from that valve stem on the fuel rail.

BTW too bad i almost broke my arm patting myself on the back. After i spent $200 more on a new front hub and brake pads (btw inner and outer pads are different!?),
IT DECIDED NOT TO START AGAIN. Still got to do everything cruiser suggested. #1 is going to be that dip stick ground connection. This really.... crap. and, thx for the renix lesson!