the fuse im refering to is one of th mini fuse closest to the fender in the pdc it would blow beacause the os sensor wire was grounding out on pass side rear of tc area

 

thanks for the link! ill double check that mini fuse just to be sure and ill try to get the cps checked asap. i used a test light to see if there ir power coming out of the wires at the coil. i had it cranked probably 10 or 15 times and only once i got the test light to light up. i couldnt duplicate it. if looking down at the engine it was the side of the clip closest to the engine that i got that one burst of light.

 

i had the same thing happen. i have a 96 cherokee sport. when you turn the key on does the fuel pump kick on?

 

yes the pump kicks on

 

im taking the crank position to work to test it w an ohm meter, and i used a test light to see if i had power at the crank position sensor clip off the engine harness. the test light lit up but not too bright. i also used the test light and had a friend cycle the key a few times while probing the harness slip for the coil. there was power at the coil only wheile the fuel pump was priming then the test light went out. i repeated and every time i had the key cycled it would light up while fuel pump primed. thats it! i have no clue what up w this thing. Also i was looking at thr ignition and i can use a few different keys to turn it over but none will let the ignition go back to the full lock position. its really sloppy and needs replaced but could this be causing a problem w spark?

p.s. it looks like this has aftermarket alarm of some sort and i have no clue whats factory wiring and whats to the alarm under the column.

 

Have you hooked up an OBD II reader yet?

 

no access to one but i had the check engine light ran the night before it stopped running and it was an o2 code

 

So...... you don't have power to your coil? But you got a burst..... hmmm..... I'm reckless but I would power that puppy up then try to start it. Just to clear my head and remind myself it still runs. I'm so not versed on the electricals on the newer xjs but doesn't the power to the coil come from the key or at least a key to a relay? Unless there is that immobilizer thing someone was talking about a while back.. then I would imagine it is strictly run through the computer.... hey maybe that's something......

 

ok i checked the crank position sensor and i think i did it right, i came up w 342.3 ohms. . . isnt it supposed to be infinant? and that should show 1 on the meter? its new out of the box im pretty sure its bad lol...

 

I'll check it out a little later this morning. I'm still in bed, man, but I'll get back to ya lolol

 

Just for s & gs check the ground wire on the distributor. If this is not being made or is a bad connection you will not get spark. The ground is what makes and breaks between the trigger wheel and the stator.

 

Went to the parts store and used a freinds warranty and got a new sensor, tested it and its testing w the same results as the other one. im doing what is said to do on the link on page two of this thread... is that a legit way to test them?

 

the brand new cps was bad so i took it in and got it replaced. Acording to the mulitmeter testing procedure they both tested the exact same. i call bull **** on the mulit meter method of testing, i have three sesors here and only one good. they all read out the same no matter how you probe it.



END OF THREAD!!!
THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED.....
ADD THIS ONE TO THE CPS COUNT

 

Good job man

 

I know u solved the problem great man. The only real way to test the crank sensor is by scoping it out. One of the ways we first test it is to crank it and see if there is a rpm singal being generated, if there is then its most likely good, if there isnt then it MIGHT be bad.