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No fuel or spark.... losing hope.

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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #31  
ezab's Avatar
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by freegdr
one on mine the wire burned to my cly head and no spark and you wont get fuel pressure
The crank positioning sensor has nothing at all to do with fuel pressure.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #32  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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youve got your manual out in front of you right go to trouble shooting engine rotates but does not start it states loose or broken wires in the ignition system cps back of motor this is the first area id check since being a mechanic for over thirty years you look for the obvious first then you start testing with meters
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #33  
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the pump wont run until the motor demands fuel
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the pump wont run until the motor demands fuel
So if you went out to your Jeep and turned the key so the pump turned without it starting and then took the key out and pressed in the center of the valve no fuel would come out?
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #35  
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the pump turns on for acouple of seconds then shut off jus as he stated his doesd it will not come on again until it senses the motor is running you will get a small squirt of fuel at this time but it will not run until thye motor does to supply the fuel demand its in you manual
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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he needs help getting his xj rinning we are loosing track on his post this is what should be addressed first make sure its not the problem then on yto the next step
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the pump turns on for acouple of seconds then shut off jus as he stated his doesd it will not come on again until it senses the motor is running you will get a small squirt of fuel at this time but it will not run until thye motor does to supply the fuel demand its in you manual
Exactly but from the sound of it his pump is kicking on for a second and he is getting no fuel at all at the rail. You should get some gas at the rail. And your right the pump won't run constantly until it is running. But if the pump kicks on for that second or two he should be able to get gas out of the fitting on the fuel rail. If he is getting absolutely none he either has a bad regulator or he left out that the gas tank is empty.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #38  
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Okay. You could check your Injector Pulse and see if your injectors are firing. If he has no Injector Pulse and no Spark them I am with them on Crank Positioning Sensor.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #39  
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Thats true we would of gotten ther eventually i sent him a link to get a free on lne pdf manual hes prob reading right now cause hes gone
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:14 PM
  #40  
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From: Holyoke, Ma; Moorseville, NC
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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thank you for the manual i will try trouble shooting it. hopefully ill be able to find out whats wrong im gonna start with replacing the cps and go from there.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:21 AM
  #41  
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You must solve one problem at a time. I'm with whoever said replace the CPS, then trace your wiring and make sure there is no damage. Since you have a stick, I'd bypass the NSS or replace it, too, just to be sure it isn't somehow part of the problem.

When that's done, test the fuel pump. I'm not sure how to do this but I think if you pull the outfeed line off the fuel filter and turn the pump on, it'll squirt gas until you turn the key off. SOmebody else should verify this.

Now, if your CPS and wiring are good and the fuel pump is not working, replace the pump. If it still does not work, replace the computer with the one off the donor engine.

Something simple is keeping this engine from running. You need a friend over there to help you sort it out - and to keep you from getting discouraged. This puppy is gonna run, you just have to be relentless in your war with the evil gods of engine swaps.

When you win, document it on this list...I'm pretty sure there is a swap in my future, too.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #42  
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From: Holyoke, Ma; Moorseville, NC
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Engine: 4.0l
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Thank you for the good ideas. and also another this is would there be a differance in the 98 and 95 flywheels. casuse if there is then would that casue the cps to not register correctly?
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by xjwheeler10
Thank you for the good ideas. and also another this is would there be a differance in the 98 and 95 flywheels. casuse if there is then would that casue the cps to not register correctly?
The flywheels should be the same.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CAEMI
You must solve one problem at a time. I'm with whoever said replace the CPS, then trace your wiring and make sure there is no damage. Since you have a stick, I'd bypass the NSS or replace it, too, just to be sure it isn't somehow part of the problem.

When that's done, test the fuel pump. I'm not sure how to do this but I think if you pull the outfeed line off the fuel filter and turn the pump on, it'll squirt gas until you turn the key off. SOmebody else should verify this.

Now, if your CPS and wiring are good and the fuel pump is not working, replace the pump. If it still does not work, replace the computer with the one off the donor engine.

Something simple is keeping this engine from running. You need a friend over there to help you sort it out - and to keep you from getting discouraged. This puppy is gonna run, you just have to be relentless in your war with the evil gods of engine swaps.

When you win, document it on this list...I'm pretty sure there is a swap in my future, too.
The easiest way to check the fuel pump would be to jump the relay using a piece of wire. It should be pin 30 and 87 that would would need to jump.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #45  
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My 98 wouldnt start. NO FUEL NO SPARK. It was the CPS. The CPS tells the computer when to allow spark to combustion chamber and the other 999,999,999 sensors tell it when pump fuel,how much air/fuel mix etc (which we all probably know). If its not burning fuel there is no need for the computer to tell it to pump more.
I changed relays,ecu,computer,coil,cap and rotor because those are all logical reasons for no spark before figuring it out that I should TEST my damn CPS. The lack of fuel got me too but its a saftey feature I guess... Also my CPS tested just barely below allowable ohms and my engine light NEVER came on.Which kinda ticked me off because its supposed to warn you of stuff going out.Anyway test it with an ohmeter,the specs are in your haynes/chiltons book.Also which CPS are you trying to use the one for the 98 or the one for the new engine? They are different. Good Luck

Last edited by mudderx; Dec 7, 2010 at 03:23 PM.
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