XJheepheroXJ

So over the past few months I have been battling a electrical problem where my jeep won't start. One day I was driving and everything cut out and I went to go start the jeep back up, nothing happened. I don't hear anything other than that first click. There is no power to anything besides my headlights and dash lights.

After awhile I figured out that my ignition wire was not getting power so I ran a new wire with its own fuse to the ignition wire slot on the steering column. The jeep ran great and just this last week it cut out on me again. The fuse is fine and I tied to replace the wire again but nothing happened.

Any ideas on what to look at would be great! Thanks!

DFlintstone

Gee, I wonder what it could be? (not the problem, the Jeep )

I'm just trying to learn this stuff here, but if you can post any codes there are people who might be more help. Guess you have ruled out your battery terminals, no idea how many fuses you might have...

Not sure, easy check though, jiggle the shifter in park and neutral while you are holding the key turned, in case a dirty NSS is involved.

XJheepheroXJ

Yeah they are good and I added an extra ground to the fender to be sure.

DFlintstone

*********** Is it Renix, OBD-I, or OBD-II? Posting the engine and trans is never a bad idea ether.

cruiser54

From Joe Peters and well stated. Sounds harsh but just makes sense:
"Let’s play a game.

You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine, etc that you are asking about.

We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle".

cf1k1

Check the write up section. There is a diagnostic to go through for electrical problems.

XJheepheroXJ

Sorry guys, I forgot to list that in there. It's an 89 inline 6.

DFlintstone

Ahhhh. Thank you. You have a Renix Jeep. I've picked up a few things from cruiser on these. I've had one a long time also. I just learned, about all the power in the system goes through that one big post on the starter relay near the battery. This link has a picture of that, as well as some other important relays < http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl347lib.htm> Almost looks like a flower on the left there, with a nut in the middle!

Do you hear your fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn the key on?

It can be pretty tough chasing down an electrical problem. If there are more than one, much more fun! Cruiser did this grate writeup, grate stuff to get done even if it doesn't find the problem.


Renix Ground Refreshin
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.

XJheepheroXJ

No there is no noise for it engaging. And I changed out the ground wire while cleaning it all up to anything else that might be the problem??

stev-o

How's your nss and starter relay.
I also have an 89

XJheepheroXJ

I have not looked at those, how do I check them??thanks!

stev-o

If the motor isn't cranking at all then I would recommend u pull the nss and take it apart and clean it out then regrease and reinstall. and for the starter relay just see if everything is hooked up to the terminals on it and tight

cruiser54

Before doing that, wiggle the shifter in Park and Neutral to determine if it will start.

stev-o

X2 good idea but could always help him in the long run took my nss 23yrs to gum up enough to cause mine to give enough trouble were I had to clean mine but good thing I did clean it instead of bought a new one saved $180

cruiser54

I agree, but we're in diagnostic mode now.