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No brakes after master cylinder swap

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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 03:56 AM
  #46  
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dont let me down here guys, I need ideas..
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #47  
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Well... You could start with unbolting the master and eyeball for leaks. If that's the case an O-ring kit or a new master. The check valve for the booster, replace? Re-bleed but I bet you're tired of that by now. Replace booster?
That's all I've got.
Unless you have ABS?
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 01:26 AM
  #48  
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I might try cranking both star wheels till the drums/wheels won't at all, then then see how it feels. (then back them off afterwards)

If petal free play was zip, maybe it would make less noise?
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 01:37 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by highmileage
Well... You could start with unbolting the master and eyeball for leaks. If that's the case an O-ring kit or a new master. The check valve for the booster, replace? Re-bleed but I bet you're tired of that by now. Replace booster?
That's all I've got.
Unless you have ABS?
No ABS. The old Bendix master cylinder had no leaks, I guess I will take the Cordone replacement off and inspect for leaks, but will most likely send it back and will try to get another mc.
Ofcourse I can just start throwing parts at it till it is fixed, but I like to do better than that.


Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I might try cranking both star wheels till the drums/wheels won't at all, then then see how it feels. (then back them off afterwards)

If petal free play was zip, maybe it would make less noise?

So just tighten everything up (till it basically doesnt move anymore) and back off somewhat.Well, can try, but since there is squishy sound all through the pedal travel down, I'm not sure if that will make the difference.

But thanks for bringing this thread back to page 1 (for a good 20 minutes)!
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 01:50 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Roler
So just tighten everything up (till it basically doesnt move anymore) and back off somewhat.Well, can try,
Close! Actually I meant feel it while it's tight. That will absolutely rule out the rear shoes being the source. Like I mentioned earlier, you start the engine and hit the brake a couple ot times while you are tightening them to make sure they are seated. (THEN yea, back them off till it's free

At that point freeplay will be air, or something in a caliper that pushes a piston back when you let up. Or something else........
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 04:07 AM
  #51  
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Thanks D, at least I got something to try tomorrow...
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 05:55 AM
  #52  
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How loose is the pin/bushing where the MC attaches to the pedal?
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
How loose is the pin/bushing where the MC attaches to the pedal?
You mean the rod that goes into the cylinder shaped part of the MC? Don't know, will look when taking MC out again...not much free play in pedal ATM anyway.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Roler
You mean the rod that goes into the cylinder shaped part of the MC? Don't know, will look when taking MC out again...not much free play in pedal ATM anyway.
No. The cross pin that attaches the pedal to the MC clevis.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #55  
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Ah, you mean where the pedal connects to the rod at the back of the booster (not the MC)? Checked the yesterday , has no play worth mentioning.

Last edited by Roler; Nov 6, 2013 at 05:31 PM.
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