Cody Jacobson

Making the first post officially. I'm Cody from Everett Washington. Just bought my first Cherokee without any research or knowledge or have ever heard or known of until I needed a cheap car and had to replace the starter at 10PM the night before my first shift at Boeing. Anyway long story short since then I've researched online, asked questions and so on and I'm looking to meet people in the Cherokee world. So far I've done basic things. Starter, oil change and filter, air filter, spark plugs and some random hoses. Still trying to figure **** out of what hoses or tunes or whatever the hell they're called go. I'm just a new dad and husband trying to learn how to fix a car like everyone should and I didn't know jack **** about cars until recent so if you read this hit me up and let's talk. Thanks.

Cody Jacobson

But also trying to figure out this intermittent knock from the transmission area when idling if anyone has any tips or suggestions for trouble shooting.

cruiser54

Welcome. Knock could be loose flexplate bolts. easy fix. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...ocking-125547/





Also could be exhaust touching crossmember.

dave1123

Welcome to the forum and the world of jeepin' Cody! Cruiser is an old timer on the forum and probably the most knowledgeable about jeeps, especially the older ones. One thing that could make the exhaust pipe knock on the frame is soft or broken motor or transmission mounts. If that's a tallboy beercan on the hood, you're in the right place! LOL!

One thing I noticed from your picture is the heater seems to be disconnected. A possible reason for that is a bad heater core. It's a major job to replace it, but not insurmountable. The entire dash has to be disassembled to get it out. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show you how, AND we can help.You're going to need it next winter where you live.

The guys on this forum are always willing to help but can sometimes get to ribbing you. Just take the ribbing with a grain of salt and roll with it. For the most part, they can't be a better bunch of people.

RockinRonnie

Welcome to the CF Cody Jacobson!

Will get a lot of good advise here

BlueRidgeMark

Good catch, Dave!

Cody, here's your engine compartment with some notes. The yellow arrow points to the unconnected heater core connector. Just below that, it looks like the other connector has a short piece of hose coming out of it. (Yellow line.)

Up at the front, the pink line shows your heater line coming from the thermostat housing, looping back, and disappearing below your AC compressor. You should find the other end plugged into your water pump.



Cody's Excellent Engine Compartment


The correct routing is from the T-stat to the heater core upper connection, and from the lower connection to the water pump. Be careful! If you cross them the water will flow backwards through the heater core. This will induce a Coriolis effect on the earth's mantle and cause upper Manhattan to be forcefully moved to Lower Slobovia! (OR maybe, it's not a problem. I can never remember....)

The upper hose is 3/4". The lower hose is 5/8". (Er iz it t'other way around? Anybody?) Either way, you'll figure it out. The sizes are correct, anyway. You need about 3 feet of each. Buy 4 feet and cut to fit. It's cheap.

Your 93 originally had a "heater control valve" which was controlled by some vacuum lines. It should be near that short (yellow line) stub of a hose. It's missing! Doom! Defeat! Despair! Well, no. Not a problem. It's actually a good thing. Most of us here recommend getting rid of it, as it's far more trouble than it's worth. Chrysler eliminated it in later models - 97 and on, IIRC. So, expect to find some capped vacuum lines in the general area of that hose stub.

All that to say... Welcome!

dave1123

Yes, my 2000 WJ has 5/8 hoses on both. IDK about the XJ because I haven't checked except to see they are both new. If they are different sizes, the larger one is return to water pump. I put the t/stat hose on the lower one in my WJ because I figured that way any air in the heater core would escape to the water pump easier taking gravity into account. I've never gotten an air blockage doing it that way.