Need help Diagnosing ignition switch that has a blade that's burned up
#1
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Location: Dickson, TN
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Need help Diagnosing ignition switch that has a blade that's burned up
I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4.0, Automatic Transmission, 4x4, and I was wheeling it about a month ago, and it died. I wasn't wheeling it through water at the time. The problem is my lights work, and door buzzer works, but the windows wont roll up, the radio has power, but wont come on, and it won't turn over. I changed my ignition key cylinder about 2 weeks before this, and after this, I changed the starter relay, with no luck. I then changed the ignition switch, and come to find out there is a prong that is labeled "A" that is burned up, so I guess what I need help with is figuring out where the "A" prong goes to. I'm sure the wire color would be helpful, but I'm sorry I cant remember it... So after I installed the new switch, I tried to start it and still dont have any luck, so I'm assuming that the problem is connected to the "A" prong on the ignition switch... Any help would be awesome thank you
#6
CF Veteran
Demate the connector. Look at the face of the connector. Is it also heat stressed and somewhat melted? I found my headlamp switch connector severely melted/distorted due to a missed mate (where the blade inserted between the female and the connector body - rather than inserting into the female - see the pix in my profile).
The "burnt blade" is evidence of a resistive connection that overheated (as described and pictured). The crimp to the female contact will be compromised. There's a cascade effect from it which cooks the conductor and makes the copper become more resistive - causing more heat - and so on...
Check that brown wire at the (wired) backside of the connector body. Is the insulation brittle?
The "burnt blade" is evidence of a resistive connection that overheated (as described and pictured). The crimp to the female contact will be compromised. There's a cascade effect from it which cooks the conductor and makes the copper become more resistive - causing more heat - and so on...
Check that brown wire at the (wired) backside of the connector body. Is the insulation brittle?
#7
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
I'm actually at school right now, so I'm going to get home and check it out and get back to ya on the brittle issue. Thank you so so much for all the help. I searched the web for those diagrams but couldn't find them.
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#8
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Here you go. This is from the '88 service manual but yours should be almost identical.
Last edited by dukie564; 12-14-2010 at 01:46 PM.
#9
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4.0, Automatic Transmission, 4x4, and I was wheeling it about a month ago, and it died. I wasn't wheeling it through water at the time. The problem is my lights work, and door buzzer works, but the windows wont roll up, the radio has power, but wont come on, and it won't turn over. I changed my ignition key cylinder about 2 weeks before this, and after this, I changed the starter relay, with no luck. I then changed the ignition switch, and come to find out there is a prong that is labeled "A" that is burned up, so I guess what I need help with is figuring out where the "A" prong goes to. I'm sure the wire color would be helpful, but I'm sorry I cant remember it... So after I installed the new switch, I tried to start it and still dont have any luck, so I'm assuming that the problem is connected to the "A" prong on the ignition switch... Any help would be awesome thank you
#11
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
its just a thought maybe the rod in it is not goin far enough to go to the start position in the switch .What ive alwas done is turn the key back to the accesory position then loosen the nuts on the switch and pull it down so the slide part goes up in to the accesory position and then tighten the switch key goes back switch goes down towards floor board tighten
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