I'm not going to speak for the FSM. Torquing heads is pretty much the same process.

Gasket prep: hang gasket from wire hanger. Spray with copper gasket spray and let dry. This provides a thin layer of copper for better sealing. Copper is soft so it will compress into small divots in the head/block surface.

If your torque spec final number is 90 ft/lbs then start with 30ft/lbs

Start in the middle of the head. Torque the head in a clockwise OR counter clockwise fashion. Doesn't matter. Say there are 10 head bolts. Start with 5/6 torque to 30. Then do 3/4 to 30. Then do 7/8 to 30. Then do 1/2 to 30. Then 9/10 to 30.

Repeat for 60 ft/lbs
Repeat for 90 ft/lbs Final

If your torquing for a race motor.

After you finish steps above, loosen ALL bolts to finger tight. DO NOT remove the head. Proceed to below steps without disturbing the head or gasket.

REPEAT ALL above torques.

Reasons. 1. The bolts clean the thread engagement as they are torqued the first time. 2. Any stretch from new bolts will occur in the first torque. 3. It flatens the head gasket during the first torque which would otherwise give a false reading.

Doing a race torque will give you a truer 90 ft/lbs on the bolts since the head, gasket, washers, etc are already seated from the first torque.

 

And this ladys & gentleman is why you should change you coolant every few years with good water and 50/50 mix...

 

Damn Finny you dont have this thing fixed yet lol.

 

Thats some excellent input right there! Never knew that, but it makes sense.

To keep on topic. Bouncy... is it a must to use new head bolts? And if you reuse do you still need to follow the 2 stages here as the bolts will already be stretched? Or does it still give a better gasket seat and truer torque reading?

 

Some engines use torque to yield head bolts which will require replacement. As long as they are not torque to yield, a good inspection of the old bolts will suffice.

 

He is right about the torque to yield bolts. XJs don't use them though.

Given it is not a torque to yield bolt, I generally figure on two uses of the bolt. Stock and one rebuild. After that I buy new.

Warning to those that like to spend money...Me Studs are not always the best answer. I decided to put in new ARP bolts. Stud kit was about $40 more so I figured why not. The studs from ARP are NOT designed exactly for the motor. The front right stud (as you face the motor in the vehicle) will screw down into the water pump area and prevent the pump from being installed or even turning.

The four corners of the head with studs will need about 10 washers PER stud to get room to turn the nut. End result, I used a mix/match of old bolts and studs. I should have just bought the arp bolt kit and hoped they got that right.

 

ARP does make a 4.0L engine kit. A buddy bought one when building a stroker but I'm unsure where he got it or the kit number.
BTW he never finished that project but sold it and he had everything just needed to be assembled.

 

Ok here is an update!

TUesday the worst day, get out of class call head shop ro get the price for pickup, guy aY GOT A Problem YOUR HEAD IS CRACKED AND HAS BEEN CRACK FOR SOMETIME!!! I cry!
but he has one for $285. I picking up on thurs. Get home internet is down, so now i at west va at my sister using dail up. I want be on for about a week but if you need to get a hold of me email I can check it from my phone. alienboyfinney at yahoo.com


Xj styrker I aint made of money so no it aint fix yet.

 

Good to see ya back. It's been a while.

 

You think it been awhile you try coming back and find new OnWERS! Man that blow my mind!

 

Either I have been asleep or out of the country b/c I don't understand. You have been running a cracked head and didn't know it. HOW can that be???
BTW Glad you have returned alien. Missed ya!!!

 

It is crack between the water jets I haven't got a chance to go look at it yet, but I plan on taking pics. I'm back for about 24 more hours. Then got to go back home and fix my internet.