the red and blue wire came with the kit and the wire from the battery is extra i had layin around. i want to upgrade to a bigger gauge for safety purpose so i dont burn it down. just havent had time yet

 

hey wyatt will you be on tomorrow? Ill take a bunch of pix and give you some info on exactly how to make them brighter and secure the wiring

 

you might want to wrap the wire nuts with some electrical tape.

 

yea ill probably check back in tomoro. any help would be highly appreciated. its no rush either so dont make to much of a fuss over it

 

Yes, the wiring that came with the kit was meant for one pair of lights, not all four. You will need to up that primary wire to the lights. I wouldnt even use the wire nuts at all. You need some waterproof but connectors up there.

 

Not sure how many lights youre running, but ill give you my general ruling i swear by for 1 set of 55watt lights.

Go to your local hardware store ( for me its menards or lowes) get a roll of 10-14 G wire, wouldnt do any less than 14, and thats what i usually use...works fine, go to either a parts store or radioshack, buy a 30A relay, and a box of assorted crimp connectors with some of that heat shrink tubing, 2 fuse holders and fuses (not sure on the sizes, i will check my setup if you need reference) make a custom harness from the 2 wires on the lights all the way back, and use the relay, you SHOULD get full potential of the 55watts outta them by using the relay, and the new wire....use this link as a reference on how to wire it all in

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/relays.html

hope that helps a bit

EDIT: also as a note to anyone wondering, my personal opinion with ANY stock wiring that comes with cheaper lights, its junk, dont bother using it.

 

Go at least 12 gauge wire for your lights or thicker. I've used the wires they supply and they never carry enough current. Go for the wiring upgrade for sure.

 

unless it melts the wire, it will carry the same current. 10 and 12 guage would carry same current, the energy just passes more easily through 10

 

Ok so here it is, So i think the first pic is of a wiring diagram of how I have mine set up, also notice the different lengths of wire up top. if they are all the same length you will have a ton of slack and it will look bad, thats why i sat on top of my jeep when I trimmed my wiring to length.

I showed it starting at the battery off the hot lead with 10 gauge wire. then it goes to a fuse (go to an auto store and buy a fuse holder for LARGE fuses. it should have about 3" of wire on each side like seen in my pic with the orange fuse.

you can re wire the inside of the bajas which I highly recomend. its easy, basically just replacing the 16 gauge wire with 14 at least. if you re wire the inside of the lights to 14 and you have 4 bajas, you could run a 25 AMP circuit (WHICH MAKES THEM BRIGHT!!!) I believe this will make them go from 55 to 100 watt.

then my wiring runs along the top of the fire wall to the drivers side and into the cab tracing the hood release cord.

once inside of the cab I hook the hot end to one side of the 50 AMP switch and then build the rest of the circuit off of the other side. the switch acts as a break in the current (50 AMP is crucial!)

I then took my wire back through the fire wall and over to the passenger side where it goes into the 1/4 pannel and then to the passenger door by door light switch.

I then ran the single 10 gauge wire up the trim and behind the seals up to the top. I drilled a hole on the reain gutter and fed the wire through and sealed with silicon.

now I split the 10 gauge to 2 12 gauge wires, one short for the 2 close lights and one long for the 2 far lights. then split the 12 gauge to 2 more 14 gauge so you have a total of 4 wires now. (like I said, the less slack in the wire the better).

then hook up the wires to the lights and figure out how you want to ground them. I ran all 4 of mine back to a 12 gauge wire which I fed into the upper passenger side rail to the rear of jeep roof.

next I fed it throughthe back hatch and down through trim to the spare tire carier. I removed the bracket that the tire sits on and stuck my ground under there and tied it into the bolt when I put it back on. I really like this way, I had it grounded outside but the wire always degraded out in the rain.

also to address the issue of wire connections: take take the 2 ends you are trying to attach and strip the wire about 1 1/2 inches on each side. twist eash side, now twist them together in a spiral pattern and bend the connection flat. if you have a large wire and a small wire coming together, bent towards the small wire so it lays flat

also tape your connections like a mad man, make it bomb proof (water proof) and also to make it look good and protect the wiring I would wrap your bar and wires with some kindo rubber similar to a bike inner tube and spray paint it plack. It would stregnthen the par and protect wires and conceal them!

I have worked with relays many times, I hate them. they have always failed on me and created problems with wiring, this is why I did it this way and made everything over done like wire guage, and 50 amp switch. I have had this wiring set up for my overhead lights, 4 bajas on my bumper and headlight LED's for abour 5 years and never head a problem.

 

sorry my pix are all out of order, my editing program does that

 

more

 

sorry they were out of order

 

There's a lot you can do to clean up your install. Start by using a heavier supply wire to your lights and seriously think about running separate switches/relays for controlling them! The first time you melt some wires, you will be wishing you went with the relays and correct wire/switch ratings…

You can drill a small hole in your firewall, behind the washer bottle and use a rubber grommet to get your wire into the cab. You can use a wire coat hanger to snake the wire down to the floorboard then back up the pillar.

Rather than run the wire externally where it is just waiting to be pinched/spark, you can drill through the front of your rail, use another grommet and then dope it up with a sealant. That way it’s all hidden by the headliner and trim. I use a product called “The Right Stuff’, it’s great for this and any kind of gasket you can think of.

I tend to use heat shrink rather than pay for the water tight connectors. After you get it all working, wrap it all up in wire loom and it will be a good/safe install…

 

The first and last pictures in this post are ridiculous. You're going to set your XJ on fire.

 

Cheap,

this set up looks great. I wanted to do it so that the wires ran through the roof and was clean and dry at all times. this is exactly what i want to do!

are you running relays? how many, and do you have your lights wired to 2 switches?