liljoe71

Driving home yesterday from work and felt a pop and a rattle, pulled over and my fan was rubbing on the uni body frame side. Turn out to be the passenger side motor mount. After further inspection i found out that the motor mount bracket had lost its bolts.

I need to see if anyone knows the part numbers to these.

BTW, 1994 cherokee inline 6, 5 speed.

94XjSport94

Which bolts? Bracket to frame? I can send you some from my 98

freegdr

Take one out of other side hit hardware store get flat and lock washers also.

liljoe71

Bracket to Block.
Thanks 94xjsport94!
I will try Freegdr suggestion seems easier and faster as this is my DD.

BatmanXJ

Bolts are proly broken off into the block. Very common on the XJ. This is what I would suggest. Don't even think about trying to back the broken bolts out. It is a waste of time and effort. Just go with Brown Dog. Bracket is all beef and will never happen again. If you need to limp it home use a good ratchet strap to pick up the motor and secure it on both sides of the unibody. Take it easy and you should be ok until the new bracket comes in. BrownDog is by far the best company I have ever bought anything from.

This is what mine looked like from underneath


http://browndogindustries.com/

CCKen

The bolt(s) part number is 6034989. I went to the dealer the other day to buy some new ones and the counter puke told me there were none in the system and that Chrysler has not reordered any.

The bolts are the same 94-99, and changed to metric in 2000.

Our bolts are 3/8-16x1 1/8". I measured the bolts I removed from my brackets/engine and they are dead nuts on 1 1/8".

I bought some 3/8-16x2" grade 8 flange head bolts at the hardware and cut them down to 1 1/8". If you do this, make sure they are not over 1 1/8".

Edit: The OEM bolts are grade 8 flange head bolts.

Some on-line genuine Mopar parts vendors may have some stashed away they could sell. Don't know.

BatmanXJ

If bolts are not broken off. I would suggest a slightly shorter grade 8 bolt to replace. The reason the bolts back out and break off are because they are too long for the thread boss's. The factory bolts bottom out before they have a chance to stretch the bolt. if you use factory bolts atl east use a washer to give the bolt a chance to stretch.

Tony_SS

Good info, I'm going to get some grade 8's and a lock washer.

CCKen

I recommend flange head bolts like the original bolts. Split lock washers will dig into the mount bracket and create stress risers.

freegdr

flat washer under lock always.

cruiser54

You need to know this:

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com
　
　


This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

liljoe71

Update:
Definitely sheared bolts. I also noticed that they sheared off below the flat part of the block where it meets the bracket. I tried making a slot with a rotary tool and a cutoff wheel and then backing out with a short flathead screwdriver and it doesnt budge. I am going to try two more things; 1) right angle drill adapter 2) weld a nut or other bolt to remove.
I looked at the Harbor Freight ones but it will not fit within the area As I only have 5" to play with. I need to see if there is something else out there that is small and can do the job. I do not want to pull the engine if at all possible. Keeping fingers crossed as I will give it another shot later today afterwork. If yall have any suggestions shoot em this way and I can try and let yall know what works.

Thanks!

freegdr

Small punch and tap in direction to loosing close to outside edge...

BatmanXJ

Save urself the headache and order browndog. Coming from someone who has been where u are. Look at my first post on this thread. U would be up and running if u just ordered the bracket. There brackets will allow u to never worry about this issue again.

muffinman

Left hand drill bit. Angle head drill. Two of mine backed right out with just the drill, no extractor needed. Turns out the third had been broken for a long time. Never did get it out. Ran two grade 8 bolts for a long time before getting Brown dogs.