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Maintenance Monday - Looking for suggestions on fluid changes

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Old 08-08-2011, 10:17 AM
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Default Maintenance Monday - Looking for suggestions on fluid changes

Hello all, I'm planning on changing out my diff oil, trans oil, and engine oil later today, what brands and viscosity do you guys reccomend for these changes?

I do plan on doing some towing, but nothing too heavy or long if that matters for what I run in the year diff.

Also, I've read some stuff about not changing the trans fluid if nothing's wrong, but would there be any harm in just draining the oil, replacing the filter, and filling her back up? I don't plan to flush it or anything.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Old 08-08-2011, 10:32 AM
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It's all personal preference, but I believe recommended for the diffs is 80w90, with 75w140 for the rear if towing. I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my '98, but you don't have to.

Recommended engine oil is 10w30, again, I use Mobil 1 but there are tons of choices.

You are supposed to change your trans fluid and filter every 30k according to manufacturer recommendations. Just refill with DexIII/Mercon and you will be fine.

Good luck!

Greg
Old 08-08-2011, 10:38 AM
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Thanks for the info Greg!
Old 08-08-2011, 11:35 AM
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When you say trans, youre referring to the transmission? Personally I refer to the transmission as trany, and transfer case as trans but the transfer case doesnt have a filter, so.....

Gregs info is good, standard info. But knowing what year and model you have, along with motor and driving style/conditions can also be a huge fator.

The factory service manual for my '99 says the 4.0 automatic trany (transmission) wants Dexron II or Mercon and the 2.5 wants ATF+3 or ATF+3 Type 7176.

The manual trany wants Mopar Gear Lubricant: SAE 75w90, API-GL3 grade, part number 04897622AA. This is the ONLY recommended fluid for the manual trany.

The oil depends COMPLETELY on environment and the type of driving you do. 10w30 is the best all around oil BUT you might want 5w30 if you drive in extreme cold often. If you have high miles you mine as well go to a full sythetic. For the cost, its worth it. It WILL extend your engines life. But if you have a LOT of miles and have never used synthetic, expect gaskets to leak. (valve cover, oil pan, rear main)

Transfer case wants Dexron III or Mercon.

The diffs want Mopar Gear Lubricant SAE 75w90 API-GL5 grade or equivalent. If youre towing or equipped with a Class III tow package, use 75w140 Synthetic Gear lube in the rear axle. And if you have Trac-Lok it requires an additive.

Last edited by bigvig; 08-08-2011 at 11:40 AM.
Old 08-08-2011, 11:48 AM
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Sorry about the confusion, I'm referring to the transmission. I have a 2001 sport, 4.0l 4wd with 78k miles. I do a few long distance trips a year (750 miles) and use it mostly during the winter in Michigan (cold temps, snow, etc). I don't tow too often, but definitely will be towing some things, so it wouldn't hurt to just go with the rear diff fluid more geared towards towing, right? Thanks for your help.
Old 08-08-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Ok took the time for you, here you go. Fluid types and Capacity (based on a 2000 cherokee)

Auto Trans fluid-
30RH, Mopar ATF +4, Type 9602 Automatic Transmission Fluid /takes 4.67L (9.86 Pt)
AW-4, Mopar Dexron IIE/Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid /takes 7.8Liters (16.5 Pt)
Manual Trans fluid-
AX5 Transmission Mopar 75W-90 API Grade GL-3 Gear Lubricant or equivalent /takes 3.5Liters (3.7 Qt)
NV3550 Transmission Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant P/N 4761526 /takes 2.28Liters (4.8 Pt)
Use only this lubricant. No other lubricants are acceptable or recommended. Correct fill level to bottom edge of the fill plug hole.
Brake fluid (also clutch fluid)-
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications
and SAE J1703 standards. No other type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
Coolant-
Use 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze containing Alugard 340-2 and low mineral content water
2.5L takes 9.5 Qts, 4.0L takes 11.5 Qts, these include recovery reservoir.
Differential Fluid-
All Axles API GL5, thermally stable SAE 80W-90
Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant or equivalent, meeting specification MIL-L-2105C.
FRONT AXLE, 181 FBI 1.48Liters (3.13 pts), 186 FBI 1.18Liters (2.5 pts)
REAR AXLE, 194 RBI 1.66Liters (3.5 pts), 8 1/4 2.08Liters (4.4 pts)
Lubricant for axles intended for heavy duty or trailer towing-
SAE 75W-140 Synthetic gear lubricant
194 RBI Axle With TRAC-LOK, include 3.5 oz. of friction modifier
8 1/4 Axle With TRAC-LOK, include 3.5 oz. of friction modifier
Engine Oil Type-
Above 0°F (-18°C) 10W-30 (Preferred)
Below 32°F (0°C) 5W-30
Engine Oil Capacity w/filter 6.0 qts. (based on 4.0L)
Fuel-
Unleaded fuel having a minimum octane rating of 87 (20 Gal tank) actual refill amount may very depending on vehicle
Power steering fluid-
Mopar Power Steering Fluid or equivalent
Air Conditioning-
refriderant- 134A
Oil- ND-8 PAG. PAG =PolyAlkylene Glycol
Charge Capacity 0.567 kilograms (1.25 pounds)
Transfer Case Fluid-
NV231 Mopar Dexron III, ATF +3 Type 7176, Automatic Transmission Fluid / takes 1.0Liters (2.2 Pt)
NV242 Mopar Dexron III, ATF +3 Type 7176, Automatic Transmission Fluid / takes 1.3Liters (2.85 Pt)
Capacities may vary. Correct fill is to the bottom of the fill plug hole.

In my opinion! synthetics are over priced and not worth the money. I dont see them as a bad thing just more money for what gain? I would rather change my fluids more often to get the dirt/particles out then run a "super fluid" and keep the stuff in there longer, i dont fully grasp that some oils/fluids can last 2-5 times longer then others. there is always the outside factor of dirt/moisture entering the fluid and adding to breakdown. however if it makes you feel better then great. It is your vehicle and should be kept to the best YOU want it. hope all this info is helpfull. You also can switch from synthetic to crude or vise versa, but its always better to pick and stick with it.
GL
Old 08-08-2011, 01:14 PM
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With so few miles on your Jeep now would be a great time to start running a full synthetic motor oil. You shouldn't have to worry about seals leaking which can happen when you switch over on a higher mileage engine.

Don't forget to change your t-case fluid too. It's super easy and doesn't take much fluid. I just changed mine and it was nasty so well worth the 10 minutes it takes to slide under the Jeep and change it.

I reccomend picking up a small fluid transfer pump to make refilling everything a bit easier. I got one at Napa that fits on top of a gear oil bottle for like 6 bucks, I used it to refill the t-case too, just flush it out when you switch fluids obviously.
Old 08-08-2011, 04:19 PM
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I run 5w-30 in my 2000 Jeep German Castrol, but I'll be switching to G-Oil. Transmission has some High Mileage Valvoline Dexron IIE/Mercon, Transfer case, Castrol Dexron IIE/Mercon, and Diffs have Mobil One 75w-90
Old 08-08-2011, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the replys everyone
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