Loss of Overdrive with New NSS
#1
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Thread Starter
Loss of Overdrive with New NSS
Hello everyone,
Around a month ago, I installed a for my 98 Cherokee with the AW4 transmission. It was having no crank issues and no reverse lights, so I took the old one off to find the plastic was busted in multiple spots (probably from prying on it). After installation, the check engine light came on for codes p0700 and p0705, but all was fine, so I assumed it was just because I installed an "aftermarket" part. Last night I took the Jeep out on the highway for the first time in a long time and realized the engine was spinning about 2.5K at 60 MPH, which I feel like was awfully high - especially for a stock XJ with a 3.55 rear end. After hitting a light and accelerating, I felt it go from 1st, to 2nd, to 3rd... and then nothing. Is overdrive just extremely steep and only activates at really high speed, or is my NSS faulty?
Note: When installing the NSS, I did the trick where you put it in reverse and use a marker to see where the sweet spot is between the two points.
Around a month ago, I installed a for my 98 Cherokee with the AW4 transmission. It was having no crank issues and no reverse lights, so I took the old one off to find the plastic was busted in multiple spots (probably from prying on it). After installation, the check engine light came on for codes p0700 and p0705, but all was fine, so I assumed it was just because I installed an "aftermarket" part. Last night I took the Jeep out on the highway for the first time in a long time and realized the engine was spinning about 2.5K at 60 MPH, which I feel like was awfully high - especially for a stock XJ with a 3.55 rear end. After hitting a light and accelerating, I felt it go from 1st, to 2nd, to 3rd... and then nothing. Is overdrive just extremely steep and only activates at really high speed, or is my NSS faulty?
Note: When installing the NSS, I did the trick where you put it in reverse and use a marker to see where the sweet spot is between the two points.
#4
I just installed the Omix-Ada from Amazon, and it fires up every time, and I have reverse lights, but I got the same codes, and no over drive. I have a ELM 327 plugged in, and while driving I cleared the codes, and the tranny went haywire shifting through all of the gears while I was driving down the road. After the code cleared, I rescanned and the faults were both back immediately.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
I did figure it out, actually. I emailed the company and they sent me a new one and then I sent back the old one. New one works like a charm, so I guess the old one was defective.
If you did the installation steps correctly, go ahead and return it instead of tampering with it. Also, don't ever clear codes while you're driving. That's dangerous.
If you did the installation steps correctly, go ahead and return it instead of tampering with it. Also, don't ever clear codes while you're driving. That's dangerous.
#6
I did figure it out, actually. I emailed the company and they sent me a new one and then I sent back the old one. New one works like a charm, so I guess the old one was defective.
If you did the installation steps correctly, go ahead and return it instead of tampering with it. Also, don't ever clear codes while you're driving. That's dangerous.
If you did the installation steps correctly, go ahead and return it instead of tampering with it. Also, don't ever clear codes while you're driving. That's dangerous.
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#8
So, I took your advice, all of it, no more clearing codes while driving.
I emailed the company I got mine from, and they said yes, we will make things right. I went down to take it off, and decided, its a matter of loosening a bolt, rotating the NSS and tightening back up to absolutely confirm that it is fubar. Clocked it all the way left, started in Park but no Neutral, no go, clocked all the way to the right, started in Park and in Neutral, then went for a 15 min drive and no more codes.
I will email the company, and let them know to hold off on sending a new one until I can confirm it is fixed.
I emailed the company I got mine from, and they said yes, we will make things right. I went down to take it off, and decided, its a matter of loosening a bolt, rotating the NSS and tightening back up to absolutely confirm that it is fubar. Clocked it all the way left, started in Park but no Neutral, no go, clocked all the way to the right, started in Park and in Neutral, then went for a 15 min drive and no more codes.
I will email the company, and let them know to hold off on sending a new one until I can confirm it is fixed.
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