i had takein some pics with my firends 2000.. ( JJcxj ) i think.. lets just say he doesint like his setup..

 

the last of them

 

i will say pics do not show how good HIDS are.. you have to see them in person

 

Hello, I too have had this problem with HID lights and the auto off feature and the buzzing. The lights stay on and flicker when the 2000 Jeep Cherokee is off even if you use the "turn off the lights then the Jeep" method. The only thing to stop the BUZZING!!! is to turn on the high beams when the vehicle is turned off.
These are what I have: 79-01 JEEP CHEROKEE BLK PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS +HID 6000K
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01...ht_3206wt_1165

I also have an issue with the intensity of the beam. It seams to be very dim and the high beam is dimmer. I am hoping that the removal of this auto off relay is going to help for that as well. I will let you know. I see on lot of other forums that there is some sort of relay kit to install along with this type of kit, but this didn't come with one. It was a simple plug and play setup and I have installed one of the HID kits on my wifes 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee with no problems. It even comes on with the auto headlight switch and didn't come with a relay kit.

Here are some pics from the 2000 Cherokee. Sorry it was raining. The projector lens passenger lamp is slightly bent down, I need to take it off and bend it up.

 

WTF is that?
Son, how many times have I told you?...NO HID KITS!!!!!!

 

wow thats a terrible cut off.....what would be ideal for this hid mod is some bi xenon lenses so you retain you high beam...im personally not a fan of projectors on the xj i think its just to new looking for them

 

I personally love HID's but couldn't find anything I would put on. I opted for 4 100w procomp spots. Wired with relays and the whole deal. But to make them usable and AS LEGAL AS POSSIBLE i wired them to turn off and on with the brights. Ofcourse with and override switch if I for some reason wanted just my brights on? Idk it worked well for me and was only like 220 for them all. I like HID's I just would like to see some quality lenses made and not blue colored light bulbs.. HID's are white.. they just look blue/purple above the cutoff.

 

Actually it all depends on what Kelvin rating you go with. The higher the Kelvin Rating the more blue/purple it gets. I have 4300K HIDs in my ZJ and they are about the whitest they get. Most factory HIDs are about 6500K which gives them a more blue tint to them.

 

just curious where did you find the wire for the shut off? my HIDs will stay on unless i turn on the hi-beams before i shut the jeep off.

thanks

 

Actually the blue/purple you see has nothing to do with color temperature. It's the light refracting off the cut-off shield in a true projector and that's why you only see it at certain angles (usually just below the cutoff)
All factory OEM hid bulbs are 4300k which gives off the most lumens or visible light. The higher you go in the Kelvin scale the less lumens or light. 6500k has much less usable light than the stock 4300k bulb.
Get educated at hidplanet.com

 

As posted above, I too had this problem. I have now disconnected the auto shutoff control and it has stopped the problem. I am probably going to return these.

 

I disagree, I've had my hid's for 3 years now and never had a problem. I didn't disconnect the automatic off switch and i actually am in the habbit of turning the lights off after the i turn off the jeep so i can look at em, haha. Never had a single problem with it though. Also in the 3 years i've had them I've been driving in the negatives and never had a problem with that either. I got mine from xenoneyes.com. Pricier than ebay bullcrap but well worth the money. My buddy had a cheap kit and could never get them working right

 

[QUOTE=I like HID's I just would like to see some quality lenses made and not blue colored light bulbs.. HID's are white.. they just look blue/purple above the cutoff.[/QUOTE]

Go to Quadratec and look up rampage headlights. That's the kit i have and they work great! But I disagree, the temp of the bulb defines the color of the lights. 3k is yellow, 4300 is white, 6 and up is blue. The higher you go from 6 the bluer they get and 12 is a purple color.

 

yeah but where is it located?

 

The higher the Color Temp is, the less usuable light you will have, meaning the bluer the light is, the less you will be able to see. 4xxxk is usually the best bet being it will give you the most light. If you go with a 7xxxK, you will not have as much light as you might expect, actually only slightly brighter than your OEM halogen bulb. If your priority is the color, then the 7xxxk through infinitiy K will be your best bet, but the cops will be all over you about the blueness. Too much of anything is not good. 6000k would be the highest I would go if I had to go higher.

1st, you need to know that, "Lumens" is a measurement of the amount of light. Lumens is a measurement of the total light coming from a light source. The higher the number the more usuable light there will be.

4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
4300k D2R Philips = 2800lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 2400lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4300k D2R Philips = 2000lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4800k D4S/R (brand) = 3800 (lumens) -- brightest in the market
5800k D4S/R (brand) = 3300 (lumens)
7000k D2S other = 1790lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
7000k D2R other = 1390lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2R other = 780lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)

Standard OEM halogen 55W 9006(HB4) = 1100lm (lumens)

Osram Sylvania has an HID bulb with higher color temperature as well. They call it D-HC (Discharge-High Color) HID, with 5400K and 2600lm bright

Some kit suppliers advertise with 7000K and higher. This can be suspective as a lower than OEM quality bulb has been used. No OEM bulb manufacturer makes any versions with more than ~6000K. So either it is 6000K, or the bulb might have been painted. Painting bulbs decreases brightness and in most cases decreases life. The Other brand is probably a Korean brand that doesn't stand up to the test of time as a Philips or an Osram bulb does..

The numbers speak for themselves..

The ballast really doesn't have that much to do with the amount of light if it a standard ballast and not one of those adjustable ballast that keeps your bulb in the warm-up stage to keep more blue in it. The salt mixture is the reason for the blueness(6000K). After 6000k, most bulbs are painted blue to produce the blueness. The same technique that is used to make blue tinted halogens.



Color Temperature (Kelvins) and Color Rendition Index (CRI)

The color of light is determined by its wavelength. The two ratings that are commonly used to describe the color properties of lamps are color temperature and color rendition (CRI). Color temperature is the color appearance of the light produced by a bulb and the color appearance of the bulb itself. It is measured on a Kelvin scale (K). A bulb with a low color temperature will have a "warm" appearance (red, orange, or yellow). Conversely, a bulb with a high color temperature will have a "cool" appearance (blue or blue-white). Color rendition is a measure of how the lamp influences the color appearance of the objects that are being illuminated. It represents the ability of a lamp to render color accurately and to show color shade variations more clearly. High color rendition allows us to see objects, as we would expect them to appear under natural sunlight. Color rendition is measured via a complex process on the Color Rendition Index scale ranging in value from 0 to 100.

To put it in slightly different terms, the color temperature of light refers to the temperature to which one would have to heat a "black body" source to produce light of similar spectral characteristics. Low color temperature implies warmer (more yellow/red) light while high color temperature implies a colder (more blue) light. The standard unit for color temperature is Kelvin (k). (The Kelvin unit is the basis of all temperature measurement, starting with 0 k at the absolute zero temperature. The "size" of one Kelvin is the same as that of one degree Celsius, and is defined as the fraction 1/273.16 of the thermodynamic temperature of the triple point of water, which positions 0° Celsius at 273.16 k.)

It shouldn't be forgotten that a color temperature value, though expressed as a single number, doesn't describe a simple property. In reality, it only summarizes the spectral properties of a light source. Two light sources with the same light color can differ widely in quality, e.g. when one of them has a continuous spectrum, while the other just emits light in a few narrow bands of the spectrum. Some of the qualitative aspects of such a spectrum can be summarized by means of its color rendering index (CRI). Therefore the higher the CRI, the higher the “quality” of the light produced. CRI is measured on a scale from 0 to 100. A 100 CRI light bulb does not exist. Our HID bulbs range from 60 to 90 CRI depending on the bulb's manufactor and the salt mixture inside the bulb.

The Kelvin temperature scale (K) was developed by Lord William Kelvin in the mid 1800s, a British physicist. In his honor, Color Temperatures are measured in degrees Kelvin, which are a variation on Centigrade degrees. Instead of starting at the temperature water freezes, the Kelvin scale starts at "absolute zero and there is no negative color temeperature as there is with C or F ratings.

Visible colors are relative to the Color Balance (or White Balance).