Parker 98 XJ

I need some help. Im going to order a 3 inch lift. From what ive heard you dont need to change anything when going under 4 inchs. Can i stay with Stock LCAs Track bar and all that?

MasterShakeXJ

for 3" could get away with stock lca's and tracbar, anything higher is pushing it. just my opinion.

might want to also relocate your front hardlines when you lift it, maybe a slightly longer rear line also.

Parker 98 XJ

Alright thanks. I plan on changing all thoes things in the future. I just wanna get the lift first. As cheap as possible

XJ_Rookie

Ive always heard that you only need to change out lines and make any adjustments when lifting it more than 3.5 to 4 inches.
Ive had my Cherokee lifted 3" for nearly 2 years now without any problems with lines, lca's or track bar.

danimal

Don't claim to be an expert, but it is still fresh in my mind so if I may.......

I just did an RC 3" last weekend. I was worried about the same things you mentioned.
Upon completion, I have no DW. I ran it up to 75 mph on the freeway tonight and she tracks straight and true. Track bar is the stock piece in the stock location (no relocating). Didn't have to turn loose the track bar or the LCA's to do the lift, and LCA's are also still the stock pieces. Didn't have to extend any brake lines and checked to make sure they wouldn't pull tight even with the axles fully articulated in either direction.

One thing I did notice is when manipulating the front axle with the jack my bump stops are about 3" from making contact with the pad when flexed. You might want to make provisions for this in the form of longer aftermarket bump stops, or making a taller perch/pad as some do with either hockey pucks, plastic, or aluminum to make up the difference (I'm going to go this route rather than buy the extended flimsy foam stops). The only thing limiting my front end right now is the anti-sway bar (and tire contact of course). Naturally this won't be worth a darn in a wheeling situation. Back bump stops need to be replaced with longer ones as well. Same situation there. I'm just mentioning this because I would've like to known before tearing it apart and putting it all back together only to find out I'd have to take it apart again.

I'm going to have to go back in and do something with mine. It would've been much easier while the coil was out etc.

Also on a side note, I'd recommend getting yourself a set of outside the coil spring compressors. They're really strut compressors. You can't use what they term a coil spring compressor because it works from inside the coil and your bump stop prohibits this. These strut compressors are a huge help in getting the new longer coils in place and it's what kept me from having to turn loose the LCA's and track bar.

disclaimer.......
One other side note. I've been checking out the other guys builds and pictures, and it seems that the RC lift doesn't end up being as tall as some of the manufacturers that call theirs 3". Some of them actually look closer to 4" and those might require some of the mods I didn't have to do with mine.

Parker 98 XJ

Thanks everyone. This was very help full

Zembonez

You can get away without LCAs but they really are a recommended item. At lest get a track bar relocator bracket and don't just redrill for it. LCAs and an adjustable track bar should be in your very near future.

danimal

Personally, I wouldn't spend any money on anything until you see if you're gonna need it. The adjustable track bar (or relocate) as well as the longer or adjustable LCA's can be added after the fact without having to undo anything on the lift you just installed. If you finish it up and it won't handle properly or it's deemed necessary to add them, have at it.

Like I said, I didn't need any of that stuff and no DW. Tracks straight down the road.