Okay, here's the scenario, let me know what you guys think...Because I'm kinda beside myself.
My 99 is usually pretty true, but lately [a year or so] it acts up. While idling for a bit [say waiting at a train or?] it kind of chokes down. I put it in neutral, rev thru it to blow it out, then we're back to good, and sometimes while driving at a steady medium/slow pace it has happened, though not often. I attributed it to a cracked exhaust/header and that it wasn't getting the right reading.

Now, currently, this issue arose that; one night the jeep is working fine, the next morning my daughter starts it, begins to drive off to school, then a block away at a stop sign in dies. I go to check it out an it's cranking but no start.

I start troubleshooting and end up replacing plugs, wires, cap, rotor...I end up with the same scenario, but I'm DONE for the night! The next day, I change the ignition coil and she starts up! We drive it to the school and drop it off in my girls parking spot. She drives it home from school - all seems good. The next morning, she is leaving for school and,,,guess what??? Cranking BUT NOT STARTING!

I'll mention also that I did the CPS on this about 1 - 1.5 years ago and all has been good [I thought]

Like I said, I'm beside myself on this one and would like to hear some chatter on it.

You can try a new crank sensor and maybe the cam sensor that goes in the distributor . but if you have a scanner that could read data from the computer to see what is going on when it is acting up .

What brand crank sensor did you use? I tried an Echlin (from NAPA) once. It worked for ~1.5 years. Went back to a Mopar one after that.

It was an O'Rielly pc308 and it was in 3/2020. I just remember not liking that project,,don't remember why..I guess I'll have a refresher

Not sure who makes that sensor for them but I'd start there. NTK or Mopar only.

I did mine thru the firewall next to the shifter( boot loosened). It was a pretty straight shot to the crank sensor. Saw it on a search, worked fantastic.

drop the front driveshaft at the diff

stuff rags into the open area below the bolts that hold the CPS

you should be able to just reach up with 1/4" drive gear, unless you are of large build

Latest update. I changed out the CPS and it is still giving me the same symptoms. I tried jumping it to give a little extra power boost [since I've been cranking without running], and that didn't seem to add any value.

What is next down the line for troubleshooting? Any insights?

Thank Y'all.