Always pumpin'

 

AW4 pumps as long as the engine is turning, shift position doesn't matter. The reason for the advice to shift from P to N (generally through all the gears) is to flush out the related passages in the valve body

 

Thanks.

So the advice given wans't entirely correct but didn't do damage either. I knew about the all gears.
Still don't exactly know why its so important then to check fluid level in Park rather than Neutral..

 

I'm curious about that too. Sometimes mfgr's spec things for reasons completely unrelated to the task at hand. Park = no lawsuits because Joe Jeepowner ran himself over while checking the fluid.
I gotta go out and see if the level is the same in P and N now. Well not now...tomorrow..

 

My OEM dipstick says to check it in Neutral but my manual says to do it in Park. The manual states:

It's the instructions in #2 that seem odd. Why all the precautions to prevent vehicle movement? Your Jeep is on level ground, it's in Park, the parking brake is applied "fully", why the hell do they instruct you to chock the tires? I suspect it's because the instructions in the book used to match the instructions on the dipstick but after several... uh... "mechanics" ran themselves over or watched their driverless XJ charge down the hill and through their neighbor Barney's double-wide, someone decided to change Neutral to Park in the manual.

 

I suspect there are two factors at play here.

1) AW4 pumps fluid always, Chrysler junk pumps fluid only in neutral. Standardize on a single dipstick.

2) Lawyers wrote step 2!

 

Same here

Am sure by now.

Gentlemen, I think we worked it out.

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but since the brain trust has once again proven me correct (LOL), I was motivated to look into the tranny dipstick situation.

The dipstick part number for '88-'93 were the same: 53003976.

'94-'95 were the same: 52118079.

'96 changed to 52118633.

'97 -2001 were the same: 52104146.

Why the part numbers changed I don't know because the oil pan part number remained the same from '88-2001, which I think would mean the oil capacity remained the same.

Note how the '96 stood out by itself. Typical odd duck '96.

 

'67 bug comes to mind...

 

okay im back. I pretty much started it up and shifted through all the gears with my foot on the break let it run for about 5 minutes and then I checked the dipstick and it was all shiny and couldn't see any red so I wiped it and dipped it again and it was lightly shined again I didn't see much red and it was dark outside s I got *****ed at by step dad because he said I will ruin the transmission by shifting gears and running the engine so now were just going to go to a mechanic so can get ripped off im pissed!!!

 

By the looks of it you didn't do the tests I outlined in post #36.

 

Have you or haven't you topped it up by now!?
You removed 3 quart and refilled 3 quart, but if you still dont see red (or brown-red) on the dipstick IT STILL IS UNDERFILLED.
Dont drag it to a mechanic before you have filled it to the proper level mate. Check both sides on the dipstick.

 

Save your breath (in this case,key strokes) mate.

 

how bloody hard is it to change the $15 filter?

An automatic transmission is a giant fluid pump. The filter, is basically its 'intake' filter. If it is clogged, (and to me, it was not apparent that it was in any way clogged when I removed it for inspection/replacement), then the pump cannot function, and no fluid circulation/line pressure will result.

OP, you're not going to solve anything by staring at the dipstick all day or running the engine and moving the shifter back and forth hoping something will change.
Your 1st step, you need to make sure you have the correct level/type fluid.
2nd, verify whether you do or do not have line pressure, which well tell you a lot. Remove a cooler line while the engine is idling in Park and see if fluid comes shooting out. A clogged radiator can also cause no fluid circulation, so check for line pressure on both sides of the cooler.
3rd, check it for codes.

If you are unable or unwilling to do these tests, drag it to a mechanic. Of course, 75% of the mechanics you bring it to, are simply going to put it in Drive and go 'Yep, needs a tranny, that'll be $3000'. Not many techs are willing to spend their time dicking around diagnosing your truck when they could just replace the whole trans and make $$$.

 

Hope they give him a reacharound. LOL