jeep wont move when i press the pedal what to do?
I took out 3 quarts and then put in 3 new quarts of fluid. and no I did not let it warm up I jumped right in and started it maybe that wasn't good? it went fine down the road but when I came to a stop at a stop sign I would press the gas and the engine would rev but still wouldn't move seems to be only at stops and my transmission sounds a little weird
maybe I need a new transmission?
maybe I need a new transmission?The fluid that came out- did it smell burned, feel gritty or have a dark, dirty color?
First of all, it doesn't matter that you only drained 3 quarts. You need to use the dip stick to check the level. If your fluid was down a quart (which would result in 3 quarts being drained) and you only added 3 quarts... you're still a quart low. Check the fluid level at the dipstick following CCKen's instructions.
The symptoms you're describing are exactly what happens when the fluid volume is too low to keep a constant supply in the torque converter. It could be other things but that is the most likely.
The symptoms you're describing are exactly what happens when the fluid volume is too low to keep a constant supply in the torque converter. It could be other things but that is the most likely.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
I always wondered why, but it turns out in Neutral the transpump is engaged (so pumping through things like transoil coolers etc) and not in Park.
Just a little added info.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Those instructions are correct, except for one thing. Check the level while in NEUTRAL, not in Park. If you have the original dipstick, it actually says this on there.
I always wondered why, but it turns out in Neutral the transpump is engaged (so pumping through things like transoil coolers etc) and not in Park.
Just a little added info.
I always wondered why, but it turns out in Neutral the transpump is engaged (so pumping through things like transoil coolers etc) and not in Park.
Just a little added info.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Jeeplover321,
I don't know where you stand right now but I think it might be difficult to drive 15 miles inorder to check your fluid level, per the instructions, so you can do the following. It checks a couple things: If you have enough ATF in your transmission and if the Torque Converter and/or transmission oil pump is working prperly.
1. Let the Jeep sit overnight so the tranny fluid temp stabilizes at ambient temp.
2. Do Not Start The Engine. When it is stabilized, remove the dipstick and see where the fluid level is. It should be around the "MAX" mark. If not, add a little ATF until it comes up to the MAX line.
3. Set the Parking Brake. Start the engine (do not shift through the gears). Leave in PARK.
4. Immediately check the fluid level on the dipstick. It should have dropped down to around the ADD mark on the dipstick. If it disappeared off the stick, you're a tad low on ATF. If the fluid level did not drop to the ADD mark, either the TC is defective and/or the transmission oil pump is weak.
Let us know what you find.
I don't know where you stand right now but I think it might be difficult to drive 15 miles inorder to check your fluid level, per the instructions, so you can do the following. It checks a couple things: If you have enough ATF in your transmission and if the Torque Converter and/or transmission oil pump is working prperly.
1. Let the Jeep sit overnight so the tranny fluid temp stabilizes at ambient temp.
2. Do Not Start The Engine. When it is stabilized, remove the dipstick and see where the fluid level is. It should be around the "MAX" mark. If not, add a little ATF until it comes up to the MAX line.
3. Set the Parking Brake. Start the engine (do not shift through the gears). Leave in PARK.
4. Immediately check the fluid level on the dipstick. It should have dropped down to around the ADD mark on the dipstick. If it disappeared off the stick, you're a tad low on ATF. If the fluid level did not drop to the ADD mark, either the TC is defective and/or the transmission oil pump is weak.
Let us know what you find.
Change the ****ing filter!!!
a couple months ago I had this same problem, just came out of nowhere, wouldnt move in Drive or Reverse. did multiple drain & fills with dex/merc3, checked & rechecked fluid levels, replaced all 3 solenoids, No change.
No DTC's were present in PCM or TCM; so I removed a cooler line from the radiator, fired it up and found that I had no fluid circulation (line pressure). At that point I decided either the torque convertor or main pump had failed, or the transmission itself had failed. As a last ditch effort I pulled the pan once again and pulled the filter off, checked it and it looked totally fine, didnt appear clogged. popped the new filter in just for the hell of it, filled it, fired it up and lo & behold the transmission came back to life.
a couple months ago I had this same problem, just came out of nowhere, wouldnt move in Drive or Reverse. did multiple drain & fills with dex/merc3, checked & rechecked fluid levels, replaced all 3 solenoids, No change.
No DTC's were present in PCM or TCM; so I removed a cooler line from the radiator, fired it up and found that I had no fluid circulation (line pressure). At that point I decided either the torque convertor or main pump had failed, or the transmission itself had failed. As a last ditch effort I pulled the pan once again and pulled the filter off, checked it and it looked totally fine, didnt appear clogged. popped the new filter in just for the hell of it, filled it, fired it up and lo & behold the transmission came back to life.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
If the screen is completely clogged and killing pressure it could do that. I'd look into that if a few more drain'n'fills doesn't do anything.. assuming the fluid level is actually correct as the OP has not yet replied!
You inspired me to look this up lol. Indeed that is the case!
You inspired me to look this up lol. Indeed that is the case!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Since my dipstick states Idle and in Neutral, you understand my confusion.
And I know now: I DO NOT HAVE THE OEM DIPSTICK (since I have the AW4, so the dipstick has likely been sourced from another Jeep??)
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Well, in that case I sincerely hope the indicators on the dipstick are correct and the same as the OEM cherokee dipstick and the dipstick is the same lenght..
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Since we're on the subject: does the AW pump in Neutrla only, Park only, or both?
Asking this because when I did my forward ATF flush, I was initially adviced to start in Park, shift to neutral to pump out 500 ml and back tp Park, and fill 500 ml....and repeat till all red.
When I started this, my ATF pumped out the line both in Park and Neutral, so (since alone) I had no choice but to continue letting it pump and refill at the same time.
Asking this because when I did my forward ATF flush, I was initially adviced to start in Park, shift to neutral to pump out 500 ml and back tp Park, and fill 500 ml....and repeat till all red.
When I started this, my ATF pumped out the line both in Park and Neutral, so (since alone) I had no choice but to continue letting it pump and refill at the same time.



