Not even a member for an hour, and I run into a problem with my engine rebuild... Without getting into a long drawn out story, I'll make it simple (this aim's more at those of you who have swapped an older short block into a newer jeep). My Jeep is a 2000 XJ. My replacement motor is from a 94 ZJ. My concern is that the older camshaft doesn't have the same lift as the newer cam. Will this cause runability issues with the computer? This vehicle is going to be run in Pennsylvania, where we have emissions inspections, so it has to be able to pass. Not to mention, I don't want to have spent all this money on a rebuild, just to tear it apart again because it won't run correct.

Oh, and, this is a 4.0L of course.

Help needed please!

 

Grinds are the same.

Who told you they were different?

What changed was the thrust pin/spring/bolt to a collar that kept the cam from walking forward.


Use it.

 

I read somewhere online that the earlier cams had a different grind. If their the same, then I'm thrilled (minus I bought a new cam and timing set I have no use for). But, if that's the worst thing that happens, I'm good with that.
Thank you!

 

Found this elsewhere........>>FWIW to you.





Chrysler revised the cam in 1999 (did not change the grind)
by changing to a different diameter bolt and a retainer plate bolted to the
block to prevent the camshaft from walking toward the radiator. The '98 and
earlier 4.0 engines used a bolt with a spring and thrust pin counter bored into the bolt head that rides against the timing cover to keep the camshaft in place.
The after market camshafts that I know of are made in the earlier style, and this is why the manufacturers show them only up to '98.

Conversion parts

'98 and earlier cam bolt kit (bolt, washer, spring, thrust pin)
'94-'98 camshaft sprocket (Get a Cloyes set, I don't believe in mixing and matching chain set wear patterns, some feel it is okay, not on my motors.)
The '94-'98 timing chain and crankshaft sprocket are the same as
the '99+ and could be reused if in good condition. Reuse the '99+ timing cover, and delete the '99+ camshaft retainer
plate.

Do a search on ZDDP reductions in our oils to prevent premature camshaft failure with the new eco friendly oils.

This one for you or a customer?

Any more questions, let me know.

John

 

IIRC they did change in 1991 to add enough overlap to delete the EGR valve.

 

Nope. Same cam 87 to 95 or so.

 

Even if the cam had a different lift, which apparently it isn't from what these guys are saying, the grind would have to be way different for the ECU to not be able to compensate.

I'm running a 96 4.0 (camshaft included) in my 2000 with no issues whatsoever.

 

I found this information elsewhere, which is what had me concerned...


The stock '87-'95 Jeep 4.0 camshaft is a single pattern cam with the following specs:

Advertised duration int./exh.: 270/270 deg
Duration @ 0.050" lift int./exh.: 197/197 deg
Valve lift int./exh.: 0.424"/0.424"
Lobe separation angle: 112 deg
Intake centerline angle: 120 deg
Valve overlap (advertised): 46 deg
IVO: 21.5 deg ATDC (0.050" lift)
IVC: 38.5 deg ABDC
EVO: 22.5 deg BBDC
EVC: 5.5 deg BTDC

The stock '96-'04 Jeep 4.0 camshaft is a dual pattern cam that produces more torque at lower rpm and a wider torque spread. The specs are as follows:

Advertised duration int./exh.: 253.3/259 deg
Duration @ 0.050" lift int./exh.: 188/190 deg
Valve lift int./exh.: 0.408"/0.414"
Lobe separation angle: 107 deg
Intake centerline angle: 110 deg
Valve overlap (advertised): 41.6 deg
IVO: 16 deg ATDC (0.050" lift)
IVC: 24 deg ABDC
EVO: 20 deg BBDC
EVC: 10 deg BTDC


That's why I was concerned. But if you all think that it'll run fine, then I'll just use the old cam. Whatever I got to do, this needs to be done, and done right.

 

Did it change in '96?

 

I think so.

 

I've been doing some more reading... I have seen alot of people that have done this swap, and none have reported any issues. So, I'm thinking I'm gonna give it a shot. From what I understand, the older cam is actually a hotter cam? I dunno, I'm not good at understanding cam specs yet. One day maybe... lol

 

Either of those grinds in the same engine on a dyno, you would never notice a difference unless you compared specs out to the third decimal. A watered down over smogged tractor engine is all it's ever gonna be.

 

How did using the '87 to '95 cam in your 2000 work out for you?
I have the same basic scenario except mine is a 2001 and I don't want to have to change my cam again after I drop the engine in.
Assuming the older style cam worked, was there any issue with the ECM, check engine light or passing smog?
How does it idle and is the bottom end torque good?
Thanks for any input you can provide.