intermitting start
#1
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Model: Cherokee
intermitting start
Ok guys im new to this web site, but been around jeeps for a long time. I have a 88 wagoneer, 4.0. the problem i have is I can get it to start most of the times, and sometimes i cant. I have a new fuel pump, filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires ignition coil. When I cant get it to start i can sometimes pour a little gas in the throttle body and it will fire up, and sometimes not, So then i go make sure all the plug wires are tight, coil wire. pull the ignition coil out of the moduel and make sure the little prongs are tight, and bam fires up. might do good for a cpl days then start over. Its nvr the same thing.
But tonight i notice there is a blue wire coming out of the ignition moduel thats been cut, and from looks its been cut a while. Not sure if that cld have something to do with it?
If someone cld tell me where that wire wld go i can make that happen, And any insite as what else to check why its not firing up. Thanx
But tonight i notice there is a blue wire coming out of the ignition moduel thats been cut, and from looks its been cut a while. Not sure if that cld have something to do with it?
If someone cld tell me where that wire wld go i can make that happen, And any insite as what else to check why its not firing up. Thanx
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Chicago IL
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
is it moist outside when it doesnt start? if so i had the same issue on my 97 and all i did was spray some wire dry and put dyelectric grease in the spark plug wires and it starts everytime and thats been since november.
#6
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Location: In the middle of Minnesota!
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Need a meter and a manual with the procedure to test the map sensor.
If reseating your coil to the ICM fixes the problem, you have a "contact" issue with one of those components. Concentrate on that.
The loose wire is very unlikely to be related as if a wire isn't connected properly that is related to ignition, you would have a solid no-start, not an intermittent one.
Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea!
You can't just check or look at these grounds. You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. The one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall. Scrape the paint from the firewall. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support. Scrape the paint off first.
If reseating your coil to the ICM fixes the problem, you have a "contact" issue with one of those components. Concentrate on that.
The loose wire is very unlikely to be related as if a wire isn't connected properly that is related to ignition, you would have a solid no-start, not an intermittent one.
Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea!
You can't just check or look at these grounds. You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. The one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall. Scrape the paint from the firewall. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.
Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.
If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support. Scrape the paint off first.
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