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Using Plywood to Repair a Rotted Floor

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Old 03-22-2011, 09:32 AM
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Default Using Plywood to Repair a Rotted Floor

Anyone ever try using plywood as a temporary fix for a rotted floor. Preasure treated would probably not be good due to toxic fumes from the chemicals used in pressure treated wood. Maybe masonite would be better?
Old 03-22-2011, 09:48 AM
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Home Depot sells 3'x4' sheets of heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal for under $10. Look in the section with the mechanical ducting

Invest in a couple sheets of that, some machine screws, and some bathroom (flexible) caulk. Cut to fit, caulk between the edge seams and the floor, and screw down.

I did this as a temp fix until i can buy some new floor pans - works great.
Old 03-22-2011, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
Home Depot sells 3'x4' sheets of heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal for under $10. Look in the section with the mechanical ducting

Invest in a couple sheets of that, some machine screws, and some bathroom (flexible) caulk. Cut to fit, caulk between the edge seams and the floor, and screw down.

I did this as a temp fix until i can buy some new floor pans - works great.

Awesome, adding to my list of things to do!
Old 03-22-2011, 10:00 AM
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I got the same problem on my 97, I thought my cherokee was a lemon until i found out that most of them have this issue.
Old 03-22-2011, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
Home Depot sells 3'x4' sheets of heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal for under $10. Look in the section with the mechanical ducting

Invest in a couple sheets of that, some machine screws, and some bathroom (flexible) caulk. Cut to fit, caulk between the edge seams and the floor, and screw down.

I did this as a temp fix until i can buy some new floor pans - works great.
temp fix hell! run it like that till she dies!

i would definatly use the galvanized but if your in a pinch and its just laying around pressure treated wood is fine to use as long as you dont chew on it.... look up on ebay "naval jelly" i would brush that on before you put your plates down it actually causes a chemical reaction that turns converts rust back to metal and forms a protective primer coating on it. i bought a big bottle at an autobody shop for 20 bucks....
Old 03-23-2011, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokeemtnman
temp fix hell! run it like that till she dies!

i would definatly use the galvanized but if your in a pinch and its just laying around pressure treated wood is fine to use as long as you dont chew on it.... look up on ebay "naval jelly" i would brush that on before you put your plates down it actually causes a chemical reaction that turns converts rust back to metal and forms a protective primer coating on it. i bought a big bottle at an autobody shop for 20 bucks....
Where can i buy naval jelly not online? That sounds amazing.
Old 03-23-2011, 05:08 AM
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I bought a full sheet ( 4' X 8' ) of sheet metal from a welding/metal supply house for $50.
Box of Stainless Steel Rivets for $30 I think it was.
Self Etching Primer $6.00/can
AUTOMOTIVE Seam Sealer $18 tube.


Buying sheet metal from Home Depot is a waste of $$$$$.

Supply houses will even sell you custom cut sheet metal to size, no need to buy a full sheet.

If you want to be creative and have a little more $$$, you could but Stainless Steel sheet metal, and rivet that in for repair.
Old 03-23-2011, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
some bathroom (flexible) caulk.
You DO NOT want to use Bathroom Caulk. It contains acids and can be problematic.

They make a special sealer for body panels called AUTOMOTIVE Seam Sealer. Of course if you only want a temporary repair and don't mind problems coming back .... go with the cheap stuff. 3M makes it, it is clear, paintable and more importantly SOLVENT BASED and thus FAST CURING !

Use the right stuff and the repair can be permanent.
Old 03-23-2011, 06:20 AM
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I'd do a search for replacement floor panels. I think you can buy both sides for around $50 and they are already stamped to fit.
Old 03-23-2011, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by robdiddy
Where can i buy naval jelly not online? That sounds amazing.
Auto stores sell it. They also sells rust converters in a spray can that does the same thing. Wal Mart also sells it in the auto section.
Old 03-23-2011, 07:22 AM
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I used 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood on my old 91. Both the front drivers side and the back drivers side. I never even screwed it down... just cut it from scrap wood on one of my job sites cleaned out the remaining floor as best I could and used 2 big tubes of epoxy resin to hold em down. Temp fix? NOPE, I left it that way for almost 2 years and never had a problem with the floor afterwards.
Old 03-23-2011, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by KD3NE
Buying sheet metal from Home Depot is a waste of $$$$$.
Why would you say that? I got essentially the same size sheet you did, for 1/5 of the price. 20 gauge galvanized.

Originally Posted by KD3NE
You DO NOT want to use Bathroom Caulk. It contains acids and can be problematic.
I fail to see how this would be problematic. Granted, for a permanent repair i would use a dedicated task product, but the product I used is flexible, paintable, waterproof, and bonds to metal. As long as someone reads the label and gets the correct product, i don't see how it's an issue at all.
Old 03-23-2011, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
Why would you say that? I got essentially the same size sheet you did, for 1/5 of the price. 20 gauge galvanized.
Try comparing like products. Price 16ga mild steel from Home Depot and compare it.

Home Depot 1'X1' 16 ga Weldable Steel - $10.61

Welding/Steel Supplier 4'X8' 16 ga Weldable Steel - $50.00

Originally Posted by dukie564
I fail to see how this would be problematic. Granted, for a permanent repair i would use a dedicated task product,
When I make a repair, I make it so that I don't have to go back in and do it again. If a repair is worth doing, it's worth doing it right so you only have to do it one time. I get paid from time to time to do these repairs for others, so I do them as a permanent repair only.

As far a sheet metal, body panel repairs go .... if I can get to both sides of the repair and it is safe to weld, I prefer welding but many times welding may not be safe to do on vehicles so I go with stainless steel rivets ( can't buy these at Home Depot ) and 3M Automotive Seam Sealer.

Wasn't trying to knock your method, just wanted to put out a method for a more permanent type of repair.

Sorry if you took offense.

Last edited by KD3NE; 03-23-2011 at 09:04 PM.
Old 03-23-2011, 08:59 PM
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Some use legally aquired road signs to fill in the gap as well.
Old 03-23-2011, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by KD3NE
Wasn't trying to knock your method, just wanted to put out a method for a more permanent type of repair.

Sorry if you took offense.
None taken. It's meant to be temporary, i was just giving the OP a better temporary solution than plywood.


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