warthog

When I install my Intake/Exhaust manifold, Should i use any type of sealent besides the felpro gaskets? If so what type specifically?

Andrew0257

I would only use a couple of drops of mr. gasket but only to help hold the gaskets in place during install. Adding liquid sealant would be very tricky on a exhaust or intake manifold. The sealant my liquify when expposed to heat and run into the manifolds from the inside and cause build up(not to mention burning on the exhaust manifold). A good replacement gasket is all you need.

OverlandZJ

Just your new gasket.

Make sure the intake is properly lined up on the dowells, and take the bolts in evenly and slowly to avoid any possible vacuum leaks. Lotsa guys do this incorrectly.

warthog

Are there any type of guide pins on the motor to help align things bc i am going to be by myself. and what do yall use to clean the surfaces?

Sorry for all the questions but i am just trying to get all my questions out there before i start thing tomorrow

OverlandZJ

Razor scraper for the head mating surface. Try not to get old gasket material in intake/exhaust ports. You could stuff paper towels in to help aid this.. then pull them out.

The gasket has holes to line up with front and rear studs for header.. and holes for dowells on intake. It'll stay in place without any adhesive.

Mine is stripped down right now if you should need any pics. I still have to reinstall everything.

rich

Make sure its the metal gasket that you useMake sure you dont just start to tighten the bolts down follow the pattern in the haynes book or the fsm a little at a time and you wont have a leaker, good luck (you can do it )

warthog

Thanks and honestly i would love to see some pics if its not to much trouble. And why is yours torn down?

I believe i have the metal one from felpro. Yeah i only want to do this once

Programbo

X2 on this! After spending 1.5 days reinstalling my head gasket I was wore out and just wanted to get it over with and rushed the intake/exhaust bolts. Well sure enough next day on my test drive it was sputtering and hardly moving from an intake leak. Re-did it all by the book and it was fine.

warthog

I didnt see a torque pattern for the intake/exhaust manifold in the fsm. Is it the same type pattern as the head?

OverlandZJ

I'll take a few pics tomorrow while i'm reassembling..

ca441970

I'm gonna be doing this same job in a few weeks(exhaust leak, and possible cause of cyl 1 miss). Is it 100% necessary to pull the fuel system apart? Or can it be done without that? If I do have to disassemble the fuel line I am sure i will have to replace the Orings right?

warthog

Not sure if its 100% nessessary but it will deffinetly make it easier to get to all the bolts. The o rings are only about 12 bucks and most likely need replacing anyways. To remove the fuel line from the rail you will need a special tool.

I have the same problem as you, cracked manifold (getting welded when i take it off) and a CE light for cylinder 1 misfire. I dug a little deeper and found that i have low compression in that cylinder. Plus it idles like crap. Hopefully i will find the culprit. I forgot to do a wet compression test to see if it was the rings, so i am doing that tonight. And if its not the rings i am tearing into it. I should have done a leak down test, but didnt have the right equipment

warthog

Thanks, I appreciate it.

What was wrong with yours?

OverlandZJ

You do not need to remove the fuel rail or injectors... leave them attached to the intake.

I'm fixing me header. What exactly do you need pics of?

warthog

That is good to know about the fuel rail

Just the way it should look prior to installing everything.
Did you go by the FSM or just removed what look like needed to be removed.