I'm back as a Jeepster again B***es
but this time with a Cherokee. 
So, a little history about me. I'm a Ford guy currently driving a 97 F150 4x4 (regular cab, long bed). I owned a 77 CJ5 with a 304 3spd about 3-4 years ago, and sold it when I went to college (was just a toy and couldn't take it with me). Well I got the itch for another Jeep project again and sensing the opportunity struck at, what I consider to be, one hell of a deal. I just picked up a 96 Cherokee Sport 4x4 (4 door, 4.0L, automatic w/command-trac) that's in damn near immaculate condition inside and out (no rust, body damage, or anything), never been off roaded (not in real jeep fashion anyways), and has been meticulously cared for and maintained for the princely sum of...
wait for it...
$250
So, I know what you're thinking. At that price in this supposedly such great condition something must be wrong with it. Well there is a few small things I must confess. The headliner between the rear speakers just started to sag (some spray on adhesive and bam good as new) and a rod bearing just started to knock. That last one being the reason for the previous owner selling it. Shop he takes it to (damn near religiously for maintenance and what not) said it would be $5000 to fix (swapping in a rebuilt Jasper crate engine). Guy who operates the shop wanted it but wifey said no, told me after they looked at it that it just needs a new set of rod bearings (with 223K on it I'm not too shocked lol). So I got some rod bearings ordered in from O'Reileys (~$40 once tax is added). So, I just scored me a very nice Cherokee that's in excellent shape (especially considering its age and mileage) for what's going to probably wind up costing me about $400 (initial cost and parts [bearings, pan gasket, new oil and filter] totaled).
Needless to say, I'm happy with my purchase.
Also, does anyone have a good write up or link to an article that in detail describes the replacement of the rod bearings?

So, a little history about me. I'm a Ford guy currently driving a 97 F150 4x4 (regular cab, long bed). I owned a 77 CJ5 with a 304 3spd about 3-4 years ago, and sold it when I went to college (was just a toy and couldn't take it with me). Well I got the itch for another Jeep project again and sensing the opportunity struck at, what I consider to be, one hell of a deal. I just picked up a 96 Cherokee Sport 4x4 (4 door, 4.0L, automatic w/command-trac) that's in damn near immaculate condition inside and out (no rust, body damage, or anything), never been off roaded (not in real jeep fashion anyways), and has been meticulously cared for and maintained for the princely sum of...
wait for it...
$250

So, I know what you're thinking. At that price in this supposedly such great condition something must be wrong with it. Well there is a few small things I must confess. The headliner between the rear speakers just started to sag (some spray on adhesive and bam good as new) and a rod bearing just started to knock. That last one being the reason for the previous owner selling it. Shop he takes it to (damn near religiously for maintenance and what not) said it would be $5000 to fix (swapping in a rebuilt Jasper crate engine). Guy who operates the shop wanted it but wifey said no, told me after they looked at it that it just needs a new set of rod bearings (with 223K on it I'm not too shocked lol). So I got some rod bearings ordered in from O'Reileys (~$40 once tax is added). So, I just scored me a very nice Cherokee that's in excellent shape (especially considering its age and mileage) for what's going to probably wind up costing me about $400 (initial cost and parts [bearings, pan gasket, new oil and filter] totaled).
Needless to say, I'm happy with my purchase.

Also, does anyone have a good write up or link to an article that in detail describes the replacement of the rod bearings?
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA 30157
Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would have dropped the oil pan and pulled the cap/s from the
"suspected" rod/s and check that the crank is screwed up, before
ordering bearings. Hopefully the crank will be good and not have been
turned sometime in the past.
"suspected" rod/s and check that the crank is screwed up, before
ordering bearings. Hopefully the crank will be good and not have been
turned sometime in the past.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by DeepBarney
Thanks.
Still need some input as to my rod bearing situation, please.
Still need some input as to my rod bearing situation, please.
)
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
with 223k on it I would worry about the main bearigns as well... but I am the kind of person who would rebuild the entire thing other then just put a few parts in it. hope the crank is ok!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 11
From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I say go for it.
Drop pan, pull rod ends remove and replace bearings torque cap bolts new pan gasket and put it back together. Bet you get at least another 25k miles before something else goes.
I once had a piston with a burned hole in it. Bought a new one with half thou bigger rings. gapped the rings and threw it all together with new rod bearings. Then sold the van for $2k more than I bought it for. I know for a fact the body rotted away on that van and was the only reason he scrapped it.
He was seriously going to pull the engine for another project he was working on.
If you do it carefully you should luck out. And even if you don't you'll still be way ahead on money!!!
It's amazing how many on this site just say "Get a new engine" They must work for computer support. For every problem just reformat the hard drive!
Drop pan, pull rod ends remove and replace bearings torque cap bolts new pan gasket and put it back together. Bet you get at least another 25k miles before something else goes.
I once had a piston with a burned hole in it. Bought a new one with half thou bigger rings. gapped the rings and threw it all together with new rod bearings. Then sold the van for $2k more than I bought it for. I know for a fact the body rotted away on that van and was the only reason he scrapped it.
He was seriously going to pull the engine for another project he was working on.
If you do it carefully you should luck out. And even if you don't you'll still be way ahead on money!!!
It's amazing how many on this site just say "Get a new engine" They must work for computer support. For every problem just reformat the hard drive!
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 324
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, Va
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter I6
I dont work for computer support I am a master technician of two brands of vehicles and I will tell you that a rod bearing went for a reason. Lack of oil, oil contamination, or detonation. If your rods are knocking i bet your cam bearings are worn too. Ask me how I know. All my rod bearings were down to the brass. Crank scored. Ran damn good but had a knock with 179K. My block is currently at the machine shop getting cylinders honed, new cam bearings and freeze plugs and the bearing housings of the rods checked for out of round. New Cam, timing set, crank kit, rings and gaskets are in the way. If your going to do it, do it right, especially since your in it for so little money at this time.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Jamie57: Surprisingly enough, reformatting the hard drive usually fixes the problem. Puts the computer in its original, factory condition. IT techs do that all the time.
Which is why with 230K miles on a 16 year old Jeep with an engine knock the cheapest way in the long run to fix it is with an engine rebuild.
If the OP is just interested in MAYBE fixing the knock long enough to get the Jeep to auction, then sure, just replace the rod bearings.
If he plans on keeping it, then rebuild. But asking for videos and references on how to replace engine internals does not indicate he is experienced in that sort of thing.
As another poster notes, if the engine is that worn, then band-aids aren't going to fix it.
Ask me sometime how I know.
Which is why with 230K miles on a 16 year old Jeep with an engine knock the cheapest way in the long run to fix it is with an engine rebuild.
If the OP is just interested in MAYBE fixing the knock long enough to get the Jeep to auction, then sure, just replace the rod bearings.
If he plans on keeping it, then rebuild. But asking for videos and references on how to replace engine internals does not indicate he is experienced in that sort of thing.
As another poster notes, if the engine is that worn, then band-aids aren't going to fix it.
Ask me sometime how I know.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Firestorm500
Jamie57: Surprisingly enough, reformatting the hard drive usually fixes the problem. Puts the computer in its original, factory condition. IT techs do that all the time.
Which is why with 230K miles on a 16 year old Jeep with an engine knock the cheapest way in the long run to fix it is with an engine rebuild.
If the OP is just interested in MAYBE fixing the knock long enough to get the Jeep to auction, then sure, just replace the rod bearings.
If he plans on keeping it, then rebuild. But asking for videos and references on how to replace engine internals does not indicate he is experienced in that sort of thing.
As another poster notes, if the engine is that worn, then band-aids aren't going to fix it.
Ask me sometime how I know.
Which is why with 230K miles on a 16 year old Jeep with an engine knock the cheapest way in the long run to fix it is with an engine rebuild.
If the OP is just interested in MAYBE fixing the knock long enough to get the Jeep to auction, then sure, just replace the rod bearings.
If he plans on keeping it, then rebuild. But asking for videos and references on how to replace engine internals does not indicate he is experienced in that sort of thing.
As another poster notes, if the engine is that worn, then band-aids aren't going to fix it.
Ask me sometime how I know.
Originally Posted by thakmfb
I dont work for computer support I am a master technician of two brands of vehicles and I will tell you that a rod bearing went for a reason. Lack of oil, oil contamination, or detonation. If your rods are knocking i bet your cam bearings are worn too. Ask me how I know. All my rod bearings were down to the brass. Crank scored. Ran damn good but had a knock with 179K. My block is currently at the machine shop getting cylinders honed, new cam bearings and freeze plugs and the bearing housings of the rods checked for out of round. New Cam, timing set, crank kit, rings and gaskets are in the way. If your going to do it, do it right, especially since your in it for so little money at this time.


