Hey Rubble!!!! (as in Barney Rubble, et al) [ah well, trying to be lighthearted here]

Get yourself a new motor , long block $1600.00 delivered....Keep your old one (add couple hundred bucks to that figure)

I have a brand new long block sittin at my dads, waiting for the day ol red gives up the ghost....265,782.3 miles as of today.

That way you can learn the ins and outs of the infernal (sic) combustion engine....!!!!

A shop manual will break down how to tear the motor down and tolerances required for ALL bearing wear surfaces...... Helm or someone like that as I recall has print or CD copies for you at pretty reasonable ( I guess) price.

Soooooo,,,,,by buying a long block (many web searches will give you a plethera of choices, contacting by phone the ones you would be most interested in is a wise move), with the core charge, i.e. keeping your existing block, this will give you time to experiment/play/hide from wife/stay cooped up in garage/become guru on thickness gauges and micrometers........

Just my two cents and wish you the best of luck.

However, if you just want to replace rod bearings...do a compression check first and see if maybe you need the head worked on......

cheers!

cpnwrench

 

Ok, a couple things. I apologize for the title and other pointless info (didn't read the part where it said this was a tech section). Two, I am quite mechanically inclined/capable, just never worked on a jeep I6 (lots of other engines have seen my attention though). The purpose of this vehicle is going to be just a jeep to beat around the back roads and pastures at home (I live out in the boonies), so its not getting a rebuild any of that. If this were a daily driver or something more than just an occasional for the fun of it beater then I'd say yeah it needs done right and I'd rebuild the engine (with the exception of the machine work, doing it all myself). But its not so, from here on out specific info regarding the replacement of the rod bearings (which by the way were checked out and found to be the source of the problem) is all I'm interested in. Also cpnwrench glad to see you got the name.

 

Ah well Rubble,,,,,, now we know where and what you are after.....just a beater eh?

best thing to do.... put 'er up on jack stands in the front,,,,,

get rid of the flap/skidplate protector thingy....

drop the pan and pump(on the I6, gotta take pump bolts out and drop pump with pan) ask me how i know....

anyway.....once you have pan out.....you can access the rod/crank bearings....an yeah you can get to all of them, just gotta be patient and thorough with sizing and play and torque specs...I did mine in just over the weekend...if i had a shop coulda done it in 5-6 hours, but like I said, I took my time ( ), and while I was under there, replaced the rear main seal, the crank main bearings.

what I was truly surprised at though was there was little to no wear on the crank or rod bearings....after 200k....there was wear, but it was pretty much even on each bearing...I just made sure all was clean, plasticgage told me i needed .10 over....so I just made sure they were lubed up good, snapped em in and torqued down proper like.. and re-assembled everythin (frgn pump bolts goin back in were a nightmare, but maybe thats cuz i was in a hurry or somethin, i dunno).

Haynes manual is pretty good with the engine teardown an stuff, in case you wanna pick one up, and if you got one already, disregard.

well enjoy the project,, by the way the oil pan is a PIA to get off if its never been off before....! (lots o' rubber mallet blows and big blade screwdriver easy prys all the way around, then more rubber hammer blows.....rrrrrgh).

my $0.02

cpnwrench

 

ERROR!!!!

I meant ten thousandths!!!! (over)

not .1

whata dummy I is.

cheers!

cpnwrench

 

I knew whatchya meant. And thanks for the input.

So are you saying that you plastigauged the rods saw that you needed 10 thousanths oversized bearings and just got bearings that were that spec and just put them in without taking the crank out and having it turned down to that size or polished? Never heard of anyone doing that so that's why I ask.

 

Yassir, that is exactly what I did.....

I dont consider it a racecar and I have rebuilt several "junkers" with friends and we have had great luck doing it that way, however, had I "seen" any kind of blemishing/bluing/odd coloration etc etc etc on the crank when I did this, yeah I would have pulled the crank out and had it polished. But to date, I have no problems.

but to each his/her own...

best of luck!

cpnwrench

 

Will have to keep that in my end.

 

Boy did I **** in someone's cornflakes!
Hey we're not all Rockefellers here. Or bill gates either. And anytime I've had a computer problem I fixed it without reformating the hard drive. That's just lazy.
I hope you enjoy your new Jeep Barney. I've also done repairs like that and had great success. I've even used them as a DD. If you have a mechanical apptitude which I think you do, don't be afraid to try out anything.
I used to work at a Chrysler dealership about a million years ago and that was how we repaired rod bearings on warrenty. If we did it right we never got them back for rework. The key is take your time and be operating room clean.
Let us know how it works out!

 

Wasn't your warranty work for rod bearings was mostly for engines with less than 36K miles? While his Jeep has about 200K miles more than that.

It's not just the rod bearings that have a significant amount of wear.

And, nowadays you don't so much reformat the hard drive as you use the System Restore function. It's generally used in extreme circumstances. Maybe your computer problems weren't very serious. Laziness has nothing to do with it.

 

Your still missing the point. Why spend all that time r&r an engine and all the money for a rebuild when 4 hours and $40 will last him till he scraps the jeep?

And laziness has every thing to do with it. How about diagnosing how you f'd up the computer first? So you won't do it again.

 

I think everyone was just giving him suggestions as a lot of people have a lot of experience with these engines. I dont have a lot of experience but am getting there and offered my suggestion b/c of my particular circumstance. If he wants to toss a set of rod bearings in more power to him and we will help him with that. But there are several threads where people have tried fixing rod knocks with bearing only to find the problem reoccurs 50 miles down the road due to other worn components. Another thing people dont take into consideration is the rod bearing housings. If they are out of spec for roundness no way you will get a bearing to stay in that rod. If a bearing fails it could also damage the bearing housing.

 

YOU are missing the point, cornflake pisser. How do you know that a cheap fix will last him till he scraps the Jeep? Assuming he doesn't immediately scrap it when he finds his $40 fix didn't fix it.

Why spend the time and money? Because the whole engine is worn. But the OP poster said later that this is going to be a farm or field Jeep. When it breaks, he can just get the mules and drag it back to the barn.

Also, O Omniscient One, I didn't screw up the computer. There was an original software error deep in the root programming that could not be corrected by me or tech support until the System Restore was done. That fixed it. Took a while to find it, too.

Apparently any computer problems you have had were minor.

 

Wow, fight much on this forum?

Anyways, if the journals/housings are out of round when I go to do this I'll stop and form a plan b. For now, I just want to drop the pan and check it out and if all looks good go ahead and throw in some rod bearings. If that don't fix it, then I'll go from there and form a new course of action. So if it's not too much trouble I'd sure appreciate it if someone could aid me in obtaining the torque specs I'll need for this project.

 

Hey Rubble!!!!!


here ya go........ (4.0L I6)

Main Bearing cap bolts.............80 ft-lbs
Connecting Rod cap bolts.........33 ft-lbs.


cheers!

cpnwrench

 

Thank you much cpn, I appreciate it. Now I hate to be a bother and ask, but you wouldn't happen to know/be willing to share sizings I should be looking for if/when I plastiguage it (first to find the needed size of replacement bearings and after when I've got fresh bearings in it)?