Idler Pully Bolt
I didn't use either.
I never had a problem getting it out.
And have been in there more times then I care to admit. LOL.
When I did the water pump I bought a new pulley and the tension set up in there.
The rod, that little piece the rod and the bolt go into, and the bolt.
Might have even torqued it to spec but can't recall for sure. LOL.
I never had a problem getting it out.
And have been in there more times then I care to admit. LOL.
When I did the water pump I bought a new pulley and the tension set up in there.
The rod, that little piece the rod and the bolt go into, and the bolt.
Might have even torqued it to spec but can't recall for sure. LOL.
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 407
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, put nothing on that bolt.
You might consider a little anti-seize on the long thin adjusting bolt tho. It gets a little nerve-racking unscrewing that thing if it hasn't moved in a while.
You might consider a little anti-seize on the long thin adjusting bolt tho. It gets a little nerve-racking unscrewing that thing if it hasn't moved in a while.
Wonder if I did put anti-seize on that.
Well one of these days I have to get that alternator that I had my guy up the amps in on the Jeep.
So I guess I could just reach down in there and slather some on if I didn't. LOL.
CF Veteran


Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 412
From: San Mateo, CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix, stock.
Lube the heck out of the belt tension adjuster screw, id not be concerned about antisieze, it is not needed on the idler pull mount.
for the adjuster block, they are made from powedered metal, and thus can split easy. get a spare, or better still cut a new one from bar stock, drill and tap and never worry about that piece splitting , that is what I done did.
for the adjuster block, they are made from powedered metal, and thus can split easy. get a spare, or better still cut a new one from bar stock, drill and tap and never worry about that piece splitting , that is what I done did.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I was able to replace the adjuster bolt with one from the hardware store. I had to go to the next Ace on my list (there's one walking distance from the house, the next one is 15m drive, but has a larger hardware section). IIRC it's a metric beasty and the 100mm length was more than sufficient as a replacement.
I anti-seized the heck out of that adjuster.
I never have had an issue with the idler bolt though. Just torque it to spec. That pulley is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that it's worth replacing as a maintenance item every so often if you're not using a Mopar part there.
I anti-seized the heck out of that adjuster.
I never have had an issue with the idler bolt though. Just torque it to spec. That pulley is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that it's worth replacing as a maintenance item every so often if you're not using a Mopar part there.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
I used a dab of nickel antiseize on the idler bolt and a bunch on the adjustment bolt.
BTW I reused the back spacer and front bushing, the Continental part only came with a little wimpy bushing.
This might have been self inflicted anyway. Could have messed up the procedure for belt tightening when I replaced alternator.
everything sounds fine now. Letting her idle until fan clutch comes on after replacing crank sensor.
BTW I reused the back spacer and front bushing, the Continental part only came with a little wimpy bushing.
This might have been self inflicted anyway. Could have messed up the procedure for belt tightening when I replaced alternator.
everything sounds fine now. Letting her idle until fan clutch comes on after replacing crank sensor.
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