that looks sweet! Did you make that plate? Could you post some pictures of how you wire it as well?

 

It's a 3D printed part I made. I'm now away for the weekend so I'll do a write-up on Tuesday with more pics etc.

 

Appreciate it

 

How easy was it to remove the ashtray? Do you just pry on the two rivets?

 

I drilled the heads off of them.

I've uploaded my print files here but I'll post my pics here. I've still not wired the charger in but the audio port works great, no more rattling ash tray, no more leaning from the back with a phone or long audio lead.

 

You didn't have clearance problems with the center console "bucket" with the USB charger that long?

 

I did not get the very latest picture of the charger, all I needed to trim off was the threaded part of the plastic to get it to fit in. It is a rather stumpy charger that I had to hand.

 

Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A（4.2A） for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED
would this work if I tap in to the cigarette lighter power?

or should I get this and not have the fuse?

Zeato 4.8A Dual USB Charger Socket Waterproof Power Outlet 5V [2.4A & 2.4A] Dual Ports Fast Charge Adapter for iPhone Smartphone Car Boat Marine RV Mobile (Blue)

 

I have one inside the console tied to the cigarette light circuit. It's always on, which is nice for those things you want to leave on the charger out of site. For me that's usually my phone while at work, gps, or mp3 player.

 

I'll have to measure my ones length for you to see how much space there is without modification. I'll post back when I get the chance.

 

Okay, so there is approx 40mm from the inside edge where the ash tray hole is to the black metal that closes the back of the console. This length tapers depending on position (higher or lower) but my measurement is taken from the center where my USB charger is mounted. Looking at the amazon links provided, the first one does not have any actual product dimensions and the second one is 54mm long. Whatever unit you find that fits, make sure it's fused whether it's included in the kit or bought separately. If the wiring is thinner than the Jeeps original fused wiring, a short to ground may melt wire before the fuse has a chance to blow as it's rated higher.

 

Thank you for the measurements. Would there be any problems running a bigger wire just to be safe? I know BlueRidgeMark said 18 gauge but I'm not sure what the factory wire is and I need to know what to buy.

 

Although I'd always run a separate fuse myself, if the wire is thicker than the factory wiring, any shorts should trip the original fuse as it would act like part of the original loom.

18 gauge is what the '95 FSM says so should be good.

 

Question....Isn't the seat cushion in the way when the seat is folded down for sleeping in the back? About the rear power outlet. My 2000 WJ has a power outlet (always hot) in the passenger's side panel in the cargo area. There must be a good power source back there because that's where they mount the multi CD changer on the more expensive models.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I just redid all the wiring in my XJ back there and I don't remember any 12v power source that's hot all the time. BTW, 16 ga would be more than sufficient. Most of the tail light and rear defogger wiring is 18 ga. Some of that stuff is 20 ga!

 

There's no problem going bigger. Too small is what gets you in trouble. You could, in theory, run 00 welding cable with no problem. Rots a ruck getting it to fit, and it will be a pain to work with, and I have no idea how you'd connect it, but it would not be at all dangerous.

But you do need to fuse it, whatever size you install.