How exactly would I run a fuse separately? I've seen a couple post talking about it but I've also seen a lot of people mess it up and I don't want to burn my jeep to the ground
Thanks for all the help

 

Get an inline fuse holder similar to this, making sure that what you buy is rated for the job. If you are taking your feed from the cigarette socket, then one of at least 18 gauge as above would be required. Your fuse wants to be as close to the positive power source as possible to minimise the un-fused distance of wire. Wire crimps and soldering are my tools of choice, it hurts me inside when I see twisted wires wrapped in tape. If you're unsure of crimping, look up male/female/piggyback spade connectors, they would be my choice to get your live feed from the power socket if it has a block connector on the back (I've not seen my one so don't know how the wires connect). Also make sure when working on those wires, to pull the relevant fuse so the wires are not live to prevent any shorting out.

Past that just make sure that all wires that you work with are appropriately insulated when you have crimped/soldered/twisted (Yuk!) whether that be with some heat shrink tubing or insulation tape.
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If wanting to use my charger and aux, yes, the seat cushion would be in the way. For my use, they are only there for a rear passenger to use so if the seats folded up, they aren't required. My only power socket is in the front, certainly none factory in the rear.

 

Thank you. Should it be 5 amps or would 10 be okay?

I know you said 40 mm to the back of the center console but could you tell me how long your actual usb port is? or link it?

 

How is it always on if its tied to the cigarette lighter?

 

Since you will be borrowing power from an existing circuit, and that circuit is being fed by an 18 gauge wire, I'd stick with 5 amps. That should be enough for two USB ports. If it gives you problems, bump it to 7.5. You can find the fuses at any auto parts store.

I like the one linked by our Limey friend, but you could also go with one like this:



That's what's known as an AGC fuse. The old-fashioned glass tube type. They are fine. But as I said, I do prefer the AGC type, like these:




https://www.delcity.net/store/ATC-&-...pters/p_800386 (Del City is a great source for electrical stuff. Read the text at the top of that page and you'll learn about the various type fuses.)


It's just fine if your fuse holder's wire is larger than 18 gauge, but don't go smaller. But, I think 18 is the best choice for you.



Depends on your cigarette lighter. Some are on with the key, some are hot all the time. In my Grand Cherokee, I have one of each.


By the way, some cigarette lighters have a standard .250 tab (quarter inch) connector for power. If yours does, you have it easy. You can just get a piggyback connector to tap into that power. However, most don't.

See the back of this one? It has a .250 connector on the ground, and a bullet style for the hot lead. That's not going to help much. If that's what you have (they are very common), you'll need to get a male bullet connector that is sized up from what your wire size normally takes, and two female connectors of the correct size (let's assume 18 gauge, since it will work fine for you.).

What you do is to use a male bullet connector sized for 14 gauge (a blue connector) and put TWO short lengths of 18 ga. wire into it,, then crimp. Now crimp a female connector to each of your pigtails. You have created a Y connector. Now run your 18 ga. back to the new USP ports, and connect it there. Add a male bullet to the front end, plug into your Y, and you are good to go. If you are clever, you've noticed I didn't mention any fuse. How about using your inline fuse to make one leg of your Y connector?

 

This is what I’m planning on getting unless I pick some stuff up from harbor freight for cheaper. I’m having a really hard time finding a usb socket that’s under 40 mm. Also anybody have anything against that heat shrink that melts solder on to the wire?

 

I would steer clear of anything electrical at HF. The heat shrink is probably fine. I don't know much about those new connectors that solder and shrink in one. Can't comment. I like crimps because they are proven. Too many people buy cheap crimp tools, cheap connectors, pay no attention to doing it correctly, then blame their problems on the fact that they are crimped connections. In fact, crimped connections are preferred to soldered, by people who know what they are doing. In fact, in many applications they are mil-spec, where solder is not permitted. In marine applications, soldering is permitted, but crimps are preferred.

 

I've heard the same thing about crimping being preferred, I was just curious about the solder heat shrink, the reviews seem to be good.

 

I can't link my USB charger as it came with a rechargeable inspection lamp which I think is Sealey brand. As I had to chop mine down slightly it probably was around 50mm+ in length originally. It may be a case of buying a stumpy looking one (not sure what stores to suggest as I'm in the UK) that's not too expensive and crack it open. As long as you can solder your feed and ground wires onto the board and keep the board encased in plastic, there's normally a small chunk you can remove as it would have had a fuse and the spring loaded tip in it.

For references' sake, I had to cut it flush to remove the threads covered by the green dot

 

Okay, I guess I'll order one or two and start seeing what I can do and return what I don't use. Thanks again for all the help, I'll post back when I get around to doing it.

 

Yeah, the concept seems to be good. I just dunno from personal experience, and have not seen any decent engineering-level write up on them. So, I don't bad-mouth them. I just dunno.

 

Just to add to the comment about the heat shrink solder, I bought some to try out.

The solder doesn't really bond to the wire, it just melts around the strands so in a low stress situation, it'll hold together and should work nicely. I would not trust it on any larger wires but small connections would be okay. The solder certainly has more coverage on smaller gauge wire but still is only melting around and not onto the strands.

 

Appreciate the feedback 👍🏻