IACs made of gold now
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
IACs made of gold now
OK... so just a little FYI
Have been working back thru the lack of maint and misuse of now my 97 XJ Sport 4.0 Auto
Still have the wonderful cyl 3 misfire after replacing pretty much everything.
Still have a slightly high RPM at start after a Standard Motor Products IAC from RockAuto.com was installed.
Thought I would consider a factory part.
Local Dealer Price $126.54 ! OMG!
Nah... it can rev a little bit at that rate. Contacting RockAuto.com about a swap.
Have been working back thru the lack of maint and misuse of now my 97 XJ Sport 4.0 Auto
Still have the wonderful cyl 3 misfire after replacing pretty much everything.
Still have a slightly high RPM at start after a Standard Motor Products IAC from RockAuto.com was installed.
Thought I would consider a factory part.
Local Dealer Price $126.54 ! OMG!
Nah... it can rev a little bit at that rate. Contacting RockAuto.com about a swap.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Plugs ( champion ) on firewall
Cap, Rotor, Wires ( all Napa Echlin )
Clean IAC first then replaced with Standard Motor Products from RockAuto
Replaced TPS with Standard Motor Products from RockAuto
Replaced CPS with MOPAR part
Removed all Grounds CLEANED reattached
New battery, starter and both cables with milatry battery connectors and bullet solder connectors with heat shrunk ends.
Replaced Coil
Cleaned Injectors, Injector Ports on intake replaced O rings
New CARTER complete full pump assembly.
Replaced all injectors with professional rebuilt units
Pulled wiring off cylinder head checked cabling for chaf
Have also Removed, Cleaned & Reinstalled NSS
All other std maint tranny, diffs, tranfs case done. Inside basically steam cleaned.
If you asked this Jeep it's already died and found heaven in my garage. Almost has
no leaks left just the last little thing going on.
Drove for a week. No CEL. Pulled out didn't see somebody. No Problem, ROMPED it.
5 mins later CEL.
HAVE NOT preformed Compression Test or Fuel Pressure Test.
Hard start was immediately eliminated with new fuel pump assembly.
Sorry have tried to not post up, have been slowly working thru this but man if this one thing was resolved it would be a near perfect 250K mile XJ. Already have guys I work with wanting to purchase it.
Cap, Rotor, Wires ( all Napa Echlin )
Clean IAC first then replaced with Standard Motor Products from RockAuto
Replaced TPS with Standard Motor Products from RockAuto
Replaced CPS with MOPAR part
Removed all Grounds CLEANED reattached
New battery, starter and both cables with milatry battery connectors and bullet solder connectors with heat shrunk ends.
Replaced Coil
Cleaned Injectors, Injector Ports on intake replaced O rings
New CARTER complete full pump assembly.
Replaced all injectors with professional rebuilt units
Pulled wiring off cylinder head checked cabling for chaf
Have also Removed, Cleaned & Reinstalled NSS
All other std maint tranny, diffs, tranfs case done. Inside basically steam cleaned.
If you asked this Jeep it's already died and found heaven in my garage. Almost has
no leaks left just the last little thing going on.
Drove for a week. No CEL. Pulled out didn't see somebody. No Problem, ROMPED it.
5 mins later CEL.
HAVE NOT preformed Compression Test or Fuel Pressure Test.
Hard start was immediately eliminated with new fuel pump assembly.
Sorry have tried to not post up, have been slowly working thru this but man if this one thing was resolved it would be a near perfect 250K mile XJ. Already have guys I work with wanting to purchase it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
I noticed a fuel filter is not on that list... that could cause a misfire if you have poor fuel pressure and a new pump will not fix a clogged filter... just some food for thought... What is the exact CEL light code?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
"HAVE NOT preformed Compression Test"
-- This will be interesting and important to see!!
^^ Agree completely ^^
I noticed a fuel filter is not on that list... that could cause a misfire if you have poor fuel pressure and a new pump will not fix a clogged filter... just some food for thought... What is the exact CEL light code?
^^ The fuel pump assembly on my model includes the filter. Changing that thing was the hardest thing I've done on the XJ so far. The CEL code hanging on is P0303 cylinder three misfire. I use an ACTRON CP9580A scanner that is completely updated. I have worked thru about 6 codes total.
The forum has been extremely helpful which is why I almost immediately join and kicked in some cash so thanks everyone thus far.
-- This will be interesting and important to see!!
^^ Agree completely ^^
I noticed a fuel filter is not on that list... that could cause a misfire if you have poor fuel pressure and a new pump will not fix a clogged filter... just some food for thought... What is the exact CEL light code?
^^ The fuel pump assembly on my model includes the filter. Changing that thing was the hardest thing I've done on the XJ so far. The CEL code hanging on is P0303 cylinder three misfire. I use an ACTRON CP9580A scanner that is completely updated. I have worked thru about 6 codes total.
The forum has been extremely helpful which is why I almost immediately join and kicked in some cash so thanks everyone thus far.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Oops sorry..
If compression test is good, perform the valve spring TSB (replace valve springs and run Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner per TSB).
^^
I am actually leaning towards a weak, bent or damaged spring at this point. I've developed a bit of a tick. This seems to have developed after using some MMO in my last two oil changes. I was shocked and amazed at the crap I found when I changed the oil filter the first time. Have also ran a can of Seafoam thru the intake via the plugged port in front of the throttle body on the intake.
Again thanks for the responses.
If compression test is good, perform the valve spring TSB (replace valve springs and run Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner per TSB).
^^
I am actually leaning towards a weak, bent or damaged spring at this point. I've developed a bit of a tick. This seems to have developed after using some MMO in my last two oil changes. I was shocked and amazed at the crap I found when I changed the oil filter the first time. Have also ran a can of Seafoam thru the intake via the plugged port in front of the throttle body on the intake.
Again thanks for the responses.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
First off, congratulations on being so thorough.
My buddy replaced the valve spring on his offending cylinder/valve with no luck. It seems that carbon gets hammered between the valve face and seat. He tried Seafoam, BG 44K etc. I advised him to try the following old mechanic's trick and that finally fixed it.
Pretty easy.
Get a cup of water, preferably something like a Dixie cup.
With the air cleaner off, hold the engine RPM at 2000 RPM or higher and dribble the water from the Dixie cup, which you've pinched to look like a spout on top, into the carb or throttle body. Go slowly and the engine will bog a bit. Stop and let it recover. Repeat until the cup is empty.
My buddy replaced the valve spring on his offending cylinder/valve with no luck. It seems that carbon gets hammered between the valve face and seat. He tried Seafoam, BG 44K etc. I advised him to try the following old mechanic's trick and that finally fixed it.
Pretty easy.
Get a cup of water, preferably something like a Dixie cup.
With the air cleaner off, hold the engine RPM at 2000 RPM or higher and dribble the water from the Dixie cup, which you've pinched to look like a spout on top, into the carb or throttle body. Go slowly and the engine will bog a bit. Stop and let it recover. Repeat until the cup is empty.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CobraMarty & Willys55
The MMO has been used to, hopefully, slowly/gradually degunk the engine oiling system. I scraped off crap around the oil filter adapter the first oil change. That is when I knew this poor thing had really been abused. The SeaFoam via the intake was another attempt to see if the issue was possibly/hopefully carbon build up in the valve area.
Long story short the P0303 is the only code that now continues to occasionally trip the CEL.
Cruiser54
Thanks for the encouragement. ( I have learned much here on the forum.) This morning I let it warm up good and, since I have to do all my stuff by myself, used my long hose going into the intake front port to shoot a large medicine syringe of water at a time into the intake. Did about 8 of those. Seemed a bit smoother. Let it continue to run and when I came out about 10 mins later to drive on into work the CEL had went out. Can't remember it doing that before.
The other thing I have considered, mainly due to the mileage on the Jeep is look at replacing the injector connector pigtails. The wiring on most of them is very stiff. I've worried about breaking them at times. Why they aren't better protected from heat is beyond me. My next trip to the JY I will also look to grab the intake heat shield. Right now I have wrapped 1 -3 injector with heat shielding tape. Have been looking for some silicone oven/pan things since the FSB I've seen via research used two pieces of silicone as a heat shield.
Also planning on driving this thing about 500 miles over the next few days on a trip from Atlanta GA over to Augusta GA and back. Maybe some long runs will help burn off some carbon issues.
The MMO has been used to, hopefully, slowly/gradually degunk the engine oiling system. I scraped off crap around the oil filter adapter the first oil change. That is when I knew this poor thing had really been abused. The SeaFoam via the intake was another attempt to see if the issue was possibly/hopefully carbon build up in the valve area.
Long story short the P0303 is the only code that now continues to occasionally trip the CEL.
Cruiser54
Thanks for the encouragement. ( I have learned much here on the forum.) This morning I let it warm up good and, since I have to do all my stuff by myself, used my long hose going into the intake front port to shoot a large medicine syringe of water at a time into the intake. Did about 8 of those. Seemed a bit smoother. Let it continue to run and when I came out about 10 mins later to drive on into work the CEL had went out. Can't remember it doing that before.
The other thing I have considered, mainly due to the mileage on the Jeep is look at replacing the injector connector pigtails. The wiring on most of them is very stiff. I've worried about breaking them at times. Why they aren't better protected from heat is beyond me. My next trip to the JY I will also look to grab the intake heat shield. Right now I have wrapped 1 -3 injector with heat shielding tape. Have been looking for some silicone oven/pan things since the FSB I've seen via research used two pieces of silicone as a heat shield.
Also planning on driving this thing about 500 miles over the next few days on a trip from Atlanta GA over to Augusta GA and back. Maybe some long runs will help burn off some carbon issues.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 22
From: PA KOTUFU!
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
On your 500 mile trip and before. Put a can of Chevron Tectron in the next tankful and then a 1/2 can of seafoam in the next 2 tankfuls and lastly 8oz of MMO in the 4th tankful. All at Walmart about $25.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 3
From: Hanover,Ont, Canada
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
First off, congratulations on being so thorough.
My buddy replaced the valve spring on his offending cylinder/valve with no luck. It seems that carbon gets hammered between the valve face and seat. He tried Seafoam, BG 44K etc. I advised him to try the following old mechanic's trick and that finally fixed it.
Pretty easy.
Get a cup of water, preferably something like a Dixie cup.
With the air cleaner off, hold the engine RPM at 2000 RPM or higher and dribble the water from the Dixie cup, which you've pinched to look like a spout on top, into the carb or throttle body. Go slowly and the engine will bog a bit. Stop and let it recover. Repeat until the cup is empty.
My buddy replaced the valve spring on his offending cylinder/valve with no luck. It seems that carbon gets hammered between the valve face and seat. He tried Seafoam, BG 44K etc. I advised him to try the following old mechanic's trick and that finally fixed it.
Pretty easy.
Get a cup of water, preferably something like a Dixie cup.
With the air cleaner off, hold the engine RPM at 2000 RPM or higher and dribble the water from the Dixie cup, which you've pinched to look like a spout on top, into the carb or throttle body. Go slowly and the engine will bog a bit. Stop and let it recover. Repeat until the cup is empty.
Very good advise, the old school stuff still works i treid this myself on a newer dodge journey...much to the horror of the young guys in the shop...but it worked and was nicer than removing the rear cyl head in that pos!
cheers
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CobraMarty & Willys55
The MMO has been used to, hopefully, slowly/gradually degunk the engine oiling system. I scraped off crap around the oil filter adapter the first oil change. That is when I knew this poor thing had really been abused. The SeaFoam via the intake was another attempt to see if the issue was possibly/hopefully carbon build up in the valve area.
Long story short the P0303 is the only code that now continues to occasionally trip the CEL.
Cruiser54
Thanks for the encouragement. ( I have learned much here on the forum.) This morning I let it warm up good and, since I have to do all my stuff by myself, used my long hose going into the intake front port to shoot a large medicine syringe of water at a time into the intake. Did about 8 of those. Seemed a bit smoother. Let it continue to run and when I came out about 10 mins later to drive on into work the CEL had went out. Can't remember it doing that before.
The other thing I have considered, mainly due to the mileage on the Jeep is look at replacing the injector connector pigtails. The wiring on most of them is very stiff. I've worried about breaking them at times. Why they aren't better protected from heat is beyond me. My next trip to the JY I will also look to grab the intake heat shield. Right now I have wrapped 1 -3 injector with heat shielding tape. Have been looking for some silicone oven/pan things since the FSB I've seen via research used two pieces of silicone as a heat shield.
Also planning on driving this thing about 500 miles over the next few days on a trip from Atlanta GA over to Augusta GA and back. Maybe some long runs will help burn off some carbon issues.
The MMO has been used to, hopefully, slowly/gradually degunk the engine oiling system. I scraped off crap around the oil filter adapter the first oil change. That is when I knew this poor thing had really been abused. The SeaFoam via the intake was another attempt to see if the issue was possibly/hopefully carbon build up in the valve area.
Long story short the P0303 is the only code that now continues to occasionally trip the CEL.
Cruiser54
Thanks for the encouragement. ( I have learned much here on the forum.) This morning I let it warm up good and, since I have to do all my stuff by myself, used my long hose going into the intake front port to shoot a large medicine syringe of water at a time into the intake. Did about 8 of those. Seemed a bit smoother. Let it continue to run and when I came out about 10 mins later to drive on into work the CEL had went out. Can't remember it doing that before.
The other thing I have considered, mainly due to the mileage on the Jeep is look at replacing the injector connector pigtails. The wiring on most of them is very stiff. I've worried about breaking them at times. Why they aren't better protected from heat is beyond me. My next trip to the JY I will also look to grab the intake heat shield. Right now I have wrapped 1 -3 injector with heat shielding tape. Have been looking for some silicone oven/pan things since the FSB I've seen via research used two pieces of silicone as a heat shield.
Also planning on driving this thing about 500 miles over the next few days on a trip from Atlanta GA over to Augusta GA and back. Maybe some long runs will help burn off some carbon issues.