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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:43 PM
  #16  
Domaas's Avatar
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From: Oceanside So Cal
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 renix
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
First off, congratulations on being so thorough.

My buddy replaced the valve spring on his offending cylinder/valve with no luck. It seems that carbon gets hammered between the valve face and seat. He tried Seafoam, BG 44K etc. I advised him to try the following old mechanic's trick and that finally fixed it.

Pretty easy.

Get a cup of water, preferably something like a Dixie cup.

With the air cleaner off, hold the engine RPM at 2000 RPM or higher and dribble the water from the Dixie cup, which you've pinched to look like a spout on top, into the carb or throttle body. Go slowly and the engine will bog a bit. Stop and let it recover. Repeat until the cup is empty.
Lol,love the old school tech. Being an old school wrench myself, you do realize that you are probably the only guy that could have posted that with out a ton of back talk! ? OP,glad it worked out.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #17  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Domaas
Lol,love the old school tech. Being an old school wrench myself, you do realize that you are probably the only guy that could have posted that with out a ton of back talk! ? OP,glad it worked out.
I was expecting some back talk from unbelieving young pups.......
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:42 PM
  #18  
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From: Oceanside So Cal
Year: 88
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exp. gets it everytime
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #19  
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
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Taking notes here
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 06:07 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by NewJerseyXJ609
Taking notes here
Forget the notes. Go find a Dixie cup!! Actually, it never hurts to do the water treatment just for the heck of it.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:50 AM
  #21  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
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Hell I'm going to do it today before I do my oil
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #22  
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From: 3 hrs NW of Moab
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Big 4.0L
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I have heard of auto tranny fluid not water hmm....... I have to give that a shot thanks!
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #23  
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From: Oceanside So Cal
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Originally Posted by ExTrEmExJ99
I have heard of auto tranny fluid not water hmm....... I have to give that a shot thanks!
Putting atf in the oil was the old way of "flushing the system" Start It up,get it to op temps, then drain out.

Last edited by Domaas; Jan 18, 2013 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #24  
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From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Ok so Jeep made the trip out to Augusta from Atlanta fine. Had 3/4 tank of gas so I put a full bottle in of the Texchron. Avg about 70 with RPMs at about 2100. Ran fine. Had a event for about 3.5 and it sat. Came out started fine but could feel the roughness back in the idle. Bang CEL back on. Bummer.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #25  
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Forget the notes. Go find a Dixie cup!! Actually, it never hurts to do the water treatment just for the heck of it.
I've found that the vintage Dixie Riddle Cups work best on anything with over 100K miles on it.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 09:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by GAPANDA
Came out started fine but could feel the roughness back in the idle. Bang CEL back on. Bummer.
I'm still thinking you need to replace the valve springs, at least on that cyl. With mine, I ran the Mopar Comb. Chamber Cleaner, and the code stayed away for awhile, too. When it finally came back, I replaced the springs on the affected cyl, and that cured it. In summary, both the spring replacement and the de-carbonizing are needed. (If you replace the springs, then you may want to do the water treatment one more time.)
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
I've found that the vintage Dixie Riddle Cups work best on anything with over 100K miles on it.
I noticed the same thing.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #28  
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From: Prescott, Az
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Originally Posted by belvedere
I'm still thinking you need to replace the valve springs, at least on that cyl. With mine, I ran the Mopar Comb. Chamber Cleaner, and the code stayed away for awhile, too. When it finally came back, I replaced the springs on the affected cyl, and that cured it. In summary, both the spring replacement and the de-carbonizing are needed. (If you replace the springs, then you may want to do the water treatment one more time.)
Shoulda used the Dixie cup.............
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 12:25 AM
  #29  
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L i6
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My local dealer charges $119 for the IAC.
So, you just run the engine with the entire intake boot off?
Can this work on cars with a MAF right after the air filter and before the throttle body?

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Jan 19, 2013 at 12:31 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #30  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
So, you just run the engine with the entire intake boot off?
Jeep- Yes.
Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Can this work on cars with a MAF right after the air filter and before the throttle body?
No . not really. Don't put water or any spray thru the MAF. Maybe could spray just before the TB, but there can't be any air leaks. Seafoam has an adapter/guide for the spray tube to put under the clamp on the TB to seal it and still be able to spray in the Seafoam.
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