I don't know what I'm doing....
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I figured it'd give me a bit more 'room' to work if I removed it.
And, on your advice, I slotted the electric fan and the clutch fan shroud into place on the new radiator. They fit nicely, as if they were all made to go together.
I guess they were, so that makes sense.
And, on your advice, I slotted the electric fan and the clutch fan shroud into place on the new radiator. They fit nicely, as if they were all made to go together.
I guess they were, so that makes sense.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you get a new heater hose tube for your new water pump?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...6484&ppt=C0331
It needs to be installed on the pump before the pump is installed.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...6484&ppt=C0331
It needs to be installed on the pump before the pump is installed.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I did. Just in case the other one absolutely did not want to come off.
I'm kinda hoping it does want to come off, though. In which case: spare. And I can just keep swapping and cleaning them every time I have a water pump issue.
I'm kinda hoping it does want to come off, though. In which case: spare. And I can just keep swapping and cleaning them every time I have a water pump issue.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Transmission Cooler Lines
Thought I'd show you a few pics of seperating the quick disconnects on the trans cooler lines.
These pics are of the cooler line that you show in your pic of your leaking cooler line.
I had this line assembly in my garage so I thought I would seperate the two halfs. I soaked the quick disconnect with Kroil for five days in prep to remove. It didn't do any good, the thing was so rusty inside I could not pull it apart by hand. I had to use an 11/16" Crow Foot up against the crimp fitting and beat it off with a hammer.
You'll probably need to do the same thing, which would involve removing the line assembly from the top fitting on the radiator and the coupler on the trans. If you have to beat the thing apart, the line with the quick disconnect is trash (it is anyway if it's leaking). You may be able to salvage the line that goes from the quick disconnect to the radiator if it isn't butchered up.
This goes for the bottom line on the radiator as well. These quick disconnects get so rusty inside that they're beyond reuse.
Pic of disconnect tool inserted in the quick disconnect to release the lock inside. Push the tool in until it bottoms out. The pic shows how much should be exposed if it's in all the way.
Pic of the two lines disconnected. Note the rust on the nipple end.
Pic of the Crow Foot in place and ready to beat the POS apart with a hammer. I had the tube end held in a vice inorder to hammer the thing apart.
If you are going to reuse the upper line, clean the rust off the nipple using 3M #2 Scotch-Brite pads (Lowes), and prelube the nipple with ATF before insertng it into the new quick disconnect.
These pics are of the cooler line that you show in your pic of your leaking cooler line.
I had this line assembly in my garage so I thought I would seperate the two halfs. I soaked the quick disconnect with Kroil for five days in prep to remove. It didn't do any good, the thing was so rusty inside I could not pull it apart by hand. I had to use an 11/16" Crow Foot up against the crimp fitting and beat it off with a hammer.
You'll probably need to do the same thing, which would involve removing the line assembly from the top fitting on the radiator and the coupler on the trans. If you have to beat the thing apart, the line with the quick disconnect is trash (it is anyway if it's leaking). You may be able to salvage the line that goes from the quick disconnect to the radiator if it isn't butchered up.
This goes for the bottom line on the radiator as well. These quick disconnects get so rusty inside that they're beyond reuse.
Pic of disconnect tool inserted in the quick disconnect to release the lock inside. Push the tool in until it bottoms out. The pic shows how much should be exposed if it's in all the way.
Pic of the two lines disconnected. Note the rust on the nipple end.
Pic of the Crow Foot in place and ready to beat the POS apart with a hammer. I had the tube end held in a vice inorder to hammer the thing apart.
If you are going to reuse the upper line, clean the rust off the nipple using 3M #2 Scotch-Brite pads (Lowes), and prelube the nipple with ATF before insertng it into the new quick disconnect.
Last edited by CCKen; Feb 15, 2014 at 03:19 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Very helpful. For some reason, this is one of the things I haven't been able to track down. Lots of descriptions, but very few pictures. And not a lot of vehicle-specific video help, either of the 'cut and splice' sort of emergency repair or the full replacement.
...and I kinda forgot to keep spraying things. Oops.
...and I kinda forgot to keep spraying things. Oops.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Very helpful. For some reason, this is one of the things I haven't been able to track down. Lots of descriptions, but very few pictures. And not a lot of vehicle-specific video help, either of the 'cut and splice' sort of emergency repair or the full replacement.
...and I kinda forgot to keep spraying things. Oops.
...and I kinda forgot to keep spraying things. Oops.
Replace the lines with new.
Here's the Dorman part numbers again.
Line from the upper fitting on the radiator to the quick disconnect:
624-334 (you can probably salvage this one for reuse)
Line from the above line (624-334) to the transmission:
624-301 (you'll probably need this one because it looks like your quick disconnect is leaking)
Line from the bottom of the radiator to the transmission:
624-300 ( you'll need to determine if your existing line quick disconnect at the radiator is serviceable after you remove it to change the radiator)
Rockauto has these lines and pictures of them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Forget the cut and splice BS. It will only give you problems down the road with leaks.
Replace the lines with new.
Here's the Dorman part numbers again.
Line from the upper fitting on the radiator to the quick disconnect:
624-334 (you can probably salvage this one for reuse)
Line from the above line (624-334) to the transmission:
624-301 (you'll probably need this one because it looks like your quick disconnect is leaking)
Line from the bottom of the radiator to the transmission:
624-300 ( you'll need to determine if your existing line quick disconnect at the radiator is serviceable after you remove it to change the radiator)
Rockauto has these lines and pictures of them.
Replace the lines with new.
Here's the Dorman part numbers again.
Line from the upper fitting on the radiator to the quick disconnect:
624-334 (you can probably salvage this one for reuse)
Line from the above line (624-334) to the transmission:
624-301 (you'll probably need this one because it looks like your quick disconnect is leaking)
Line from the bottom of the radiator to the transmission:
624-300 ( you'll need to determine if your existing line quick disconnect at the radiator is serviceable after you remove it to change the radiator)
Rockauto has these lines and pictures of them.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah. I figured going with the actual parts would absolutely be the way to go. I was just mentioning that I'd gone looking for how-to's on both and came up rather empty.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Slight update: managed to get down to our local auto-parts intersection. I got both lines, but no Dorman Part # 800714, and no Dorman Part # 624334. I learned which person not to talk to at O'Reilly when he insisted I needed an entirely different transmission fluid, and I learned not to go into NAPA alone [armed with part numbers and information, and the guy tried to tell me that there was no way I could do it, and I needed to take it to a mechanic].
These things are very long, and very bendy. I suspect it's going to be loads of fun installing them.
I have a couple of different things to use to catch various fluids. I need a way to measure the transmission fluid I lose, but I have things that can be converted. I have enough cardboard to build the best fort ever, if I happen to need any--say, for keeping the bolts-and-whatnot for the valve cover in the proper order.
So, yes: I am listening to you guys. I absolutely want to do this right the first time, and hopefully not have to worry about anything for a while.
A couple of stupid questions, since I'm having a bit of trouble navigating the FSM:
The serpentine belt. I got the Gates tension tool recommended in other parts of this forum [after making sure it was absolutely the right one], but I either do not have or lost the exact tension measurement.
And, even dumber question about the transmission cooler lines: do I have to do anything at all special before tackling that. Like, say, putting the Jeep in neutral or something?
These things are very long, and very bendy. I suspect it's going to be loads of fun installing them.
I have a couple of different things to use to catch various fluids. I need a way to measure the transmission fluid I lose, but I have things that can be converted. I have enough cardboard to build the best fort ever, if I happen to need any--say, for keeping the bolts-and-whatnot for the valve cover in the proper order.
So, yes: I am listening to you guys. I absolutely want to do this right the first time, and hopefully not have to worry about anything for a while.
A couple of stupid questions, since I'm having a bit of trouble navigating the FSM:
The serpentine belt. I got the Gates tension tool recommended in other parts of this forum [after making sure it was absolutely the right one], but I either do not have or lost the exact tension measurement.
And, even dumber question about the transmission cooler lines: do I have to do anything at all special before tackling that. Like, say, putting the Jeep in neutral or something?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Slight update: managed to get down to our local auto-parts intersection. I got both lines, but no Dorman Part # 800714, and no Dorman Part # 624334. I learned which person not to talk to at O'Reilly when he insisted I needed an entirely different transmission fluid, and I learned not to go into NAPA alone [armed with part numbers and information, and the guy tried to tell me that there was no way I could do it, and I needed to take it to a mechanic].
I've found that if I go to the store's website and bring up the image of the part I want, I'll print off that page and bring it to the store and show it to the counter puke and tell him/her that this is what I want. Generally there's no problems.
As far as the 800714 fittings go, O'reilly does carry them but you may have to order them. Same with the 624334 tube.
These things are very long, and very bendy. I suspect it's going to be loads of fun installing them.
The hardest part will be getting them off. The quick disconnect at the radiator will be a PITA, and the 800714 fittings at the trans can be fun. Often, the tubes rust in to place in the fittings so you'll need to use penetrating oil on them for a few days prior to removal. One of mine just wouldn't pull out so I just removed the fitting with the tube still installed. You'll need to use an 7/8" open end wrench to remove (and install) the fittings because they are hard to get at.
Before removing any tube, crawl under the Heep and study how the tubes are routed and where the clamps go.
I have a couple of different things to use to catch various fluids. I need a way to measure the transmission fluid I lose, but I have things that can be converted.
After draining the trans oil pan and pulling the cooler tubes off the trans you'll get about 6 quarts of ATF out of the system. You'll need to use a clean oil drain pan to catch all the ATF.
This is what you can do to determine how much ATF was removed and how much to put back in:
Get two (2) empty milk jugs or windshield washer fluid jugs (preferred).
Fill one of the jugs with measured out one (1) gallon of water, then mark the level on the side of the jug. Empty the water out. The other jug doesn't need to be marked at this time.
Pour the drained ATF into the marked jug to the one gallon mark. Pour the remainder of the ATF into the other jug, then mark the level on the side of the jug. Drain this jug back into the drain pan.
Add about a pint of fresh ATF to this jug and swirl it around then drain it into the drain pan.
When filling the trans with new ATF, pour one gallon of new fluid into the trans, then fill the other empty jug to the mark you put on the side of it with new ATF then pour it into the trans.
You'll need to check the fluid level in the trans after you finish all the work you're doing
I have enough cardboard to build the best fort ever, if I happen to need any--say, for keeping the bolts-and-whatnot for the valve cover in the proper order.
You'll need some of that cardboard to put on the ground under the Heep so you can lay on it.
So, yes: I am listening to you guys. I absolutely want to do this right the first time, and hopefully not have to worry about anything for a while.
A couple of stupid questions, since I'm having a bit of trouble navigating the FSM:
The serpentine belt. I got the Gates tension tool recommended in other parts of this forum [after making sure it was absolutely the right one], but I either do not have or lost the exact tension measurement.
You'll have to back and hit the book again to get the tension.
And, even dumber question about the transmission cooler lines: do I have to do anything at all special before tackling that. Like, say, putting the Jeep in neutral or something?
No, nothing special.
I've found that if I go to the store's website and bring up the image of the part I want, I'll print off that page and bring it to the store and show it to the counter puke and tell him/her that this is what I want. Generally there's no problems.
As far as the 800714 fittings go, O'reilly does carry them but you may have to order them. Same with the 624334 tube.
These things are very long, and very bendy. I suspect it's going to be loads of fun installing them.
The hardest part will be getting them off. The quick disconnect at the radiator will be a PITA, and the 800714 fittings at the trans can be fun. Often, the tubes rust in to place in the fittings so you'll need to use penetrating oil on them for a few days prior to removal. One of mine just wouldn't pull out so I just removed the fitting with the tube still installed. You'll need to use an 7/8" open end wrench to remove (and install) the fittings because they are hard to get at.
Before removing any tube, crawl under the Heep and study how the tubes are routed and where the clamps go.
I have a couple of different things to use to catch various fluids. I need a way to measure the transmission fluid I lose, but I have things that can be converted.
After draining the trans oil pan and pulling the cooler tubes off the trans you'll get about 6 quarts of ATF out of the system. You'll need to use a clean oil drain pan to catch all the ATF.
This is what you can do to determine how much ATF was removed and how much to put back in:
Get two (2) empty milk jugs or windshield washer fluid jugs (preferred).
Fill one of the jugs with measured out one (1) gallon of water, then mark the level on the side of the jug. Empty the water out. The other jug doesn't need to be marked at this time.
Pour the drained ATF into the marked jug to the one gallon mark. Pour the remainder of the ATF into the other jug, then mark the level on the side of the jug. Drain this jug back into the drain pan.
Add about a pint of fresh ATF to this jug and swirl it around then drain it into the drain pan.
When filling the trans with new ATF, pour one gallon of new fluid into the trans, then fill the other empty jug to the mark you put on the side of it with new ATF then pour it into the trans.
You'll need to check the fluid level in the trans after you finish all the work you're doing
I have enough cardboard to build the best fort ever, if I happen to need any--say, for keeping the bolts-and-whatnot for the valve cover in the proper order.
You'll need some of that cardboard to put on the ground under the Heep so you can lay on it.
So, yes: I am listening to you guys. I absolutely want to do this right the first time, and hopefully not have to worry about anything for a while.
A couple of stupid questions, since I'm having a bit of trouble navigating the FSM:
The serpentine belt. I got the Gates tension tool recommended in other parts of this forum [after making sure it was absolutely the right one], but I either do not have or lost the exact tension measurement.
You'll have to back and hit the book again to get the tension.
And, even dumber question about the transmission cooler lines: do I have to do anything at all special before tackling that. Like, say, putting the Jeep in neutral or something?
No, nothing special.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You're right. I did just have to go through the book again. I wasn't going far enough.
And I figured I'd ask about the transmission thing, because someone earlier said that I needed to make sure my parking brake was working. I wasn't sure if that was all that was likely to be keeping it there.
Parking brake works amazingly well.
So, once everything's off, reverse order will be seal transmission pan, insert connectors, run and insert lines. Back out, radiator in [because I can probably tackle the water pump and thermostat first], clutch fan, belt on after fan? radiator in, radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines hooked up to radiator. Electric fan in. Fill transmission fluid. Fill coolant [and then fill it some more, and some more, all while hoping there's enough transmission fluid]. Try to get the air out. Then gently back out of the driveway to a flatter position and check the transmission fluid, assuming the street is flat enough.
I think I might have enough fluid here, unless it happens to expire. I kept two bottles in the Jeep itself 'just in case', but the temperature's been rather erratic [cold, bitter cold, spring-like, cold again]. Suddenly wondering if that's a bad idea.
I guess if I end up getting less than six quarts I'll know I was low.
Once I've added back what was drained, and checked for leaks, is it safe to drive at that point? Because I remember that you can't really check the fluid level until it's properly heated up. And, obviously, flat surface.
And you're right about Oreilly. That's exactly what I had to do: here is exactly what I want, on your website, and it says right here that you actually have it in stores. Although why they carry lines that big, but don't carry the comparatively smaller ends is something I don't understand.
This is the same guy that told me that you have to remove the entire grill to change the headlights. I thought maybe he was just confused, but no.
After the run-in with him, I checked with the roommate to see what ATF he'd been using. He still had the bottle, and it's right. Gas station brand, but right. So I at least know I won't be mixing things.
And I figured I'd ask about the transmission thing, because someone earlier said that I needed to make sure my parking brake was working. I wasn't sure if that was all that was likely to be keeping it there.
Parking brake works amazingly well.
So, once everything's off, reverse order will be seal transmission pan, insert connectors, run and insert lines. Back out, radiator in [because I can probably tackle the water pump and thermostat first], clutch fan, belt on after fan? radiator in, radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines hooked up to radiator. Electric fan in. Fill transmission fluid. Fill coolant [and then fill it some more, and some more, all while hoping there's enough transmission fluid]. Try to get the air out. Then gently back out of the driveway to a flatter position and check the transmission fluid, assuming the street is flat enough.
I think I might have enough fluid here, unless it happens to expire. I kept two bottles in the Jeep itself 'just in case', but the temperature's been rather erratic [cold, bitter cold, spring-like, cold again]. Suddenly wondering if that's a bad idea.
I guess if I end up getting less than six quarts I'll know I was low.
Once I've added back what was drained, and checked for leaks, is it safe to drive at that point? Because I remember that you can't really check the fluid level until it's properly heated up. And, obviously, flat surface.
And you're right about Oreilly. That's exactly what I had to do: here is exactly what I want, on your website, and it says right here that you actually have it in stores. Although why they carry lines that big, but don't carry the comparatively smaller ends is something I don't understand.
This is the same guy that told me that you have to remove the entire grill to change the headlights. I thought maybe he was just confused, but no.
After the run-in with him, I checked with the roommate to see what ATF he'd been using. He still had the bottle, and it's right. Gas station brand, but right. So I at least know I won't be mixing things.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You're right. I did just have to go through the book again. I wasn't going far enough.
And I figured I'd ask about the transmission thing, because someone earlier said that I needed to make sure my parking brake was working. I wasn't sure if that was all that was likely to be keeping it there.
Parking brake works amazingly well.
I think this is where I said to set your parking brake to check the trans fluid level with the engine running and someone said the parking brake may not work. If you go back in this epic thread you may find the post(s).
So, once everything's off, reverse order will be seal transmission pan,
What do you mean 'seal the transmission pan'? You're not planning on removing the trans oil pan are you. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the pan that is used to drain it. Just make sure you don't lose the drain plug gasket in the process of removing the plug.
insert connectors, run and insert lines. Back out, radiator in [because I can probably tackle the water pump and thermostat first], clutch fan, belt on after fan? radiator in, radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines hooked up to radiator. Electric fan in. Fill transmission fluid. Fill coolant [and then fill it some more, and some more, all while hoping there's enough transmission fluid]. Try to get the air out. Then gently back out of the driveway to a flatter position and check the transmission fluid, assuming the street is flat enough.
Even if you don't get 6 quarts out, put in what you did drain and then do a cold fluid level check, and then top it off. More on this later.
I think I might have enough fluid here, unless it happens to expire. I kept two bottles in the Jeep itself 'just in case', but the temperature's been rather erratic [cold, bitter cold, spring-like, cold again]. Suddenly wondering if that's a bad idea.
I guess if I end up getting less than six quarts I'll know I was low.
Once I've added back what was drained, and checked for leaks, is it safe to drive at that point? Because I remember that you can't really check the fluid level until it's properly heated up. And, obviously, flat surface.
Do a cold fluid level check.
On somewhat level ground.
Set parking brake.
Place gear selector in Park.
Do not start engine now. Remove dipstick, clean it, and then check the level on the dipstick. It should be near the top of the 'Okay' range, or somewhere between the add mark and the max/full mark.
Clean off the dipstick and set it aside. Start the engine. Hold the brake pedal and shift to all the gears, waiting 5 seconds in each gear, ending in Park again. Leave the engine running. Immediately check the fluid level. It should have gone down to near the bottom of the dipstick, but not off of the end. If it's off the end of the dipstick, slowly add fluid a little at a time until it shows on the dipstick, then stop. You're in a safe range to drive the Heep for the hot fluid level check, which is driving it for a minimum of 15 miles to heat up the trans fluid. While driving it, the torque converter will heat the fluid pretty good and you will see a big difference in the fluid level. Top it off slowly to bring it up to the top hole/Full/Max mark. (the dipsticks changed over the years so I don't know what your dipstick has printed on it). Do not overfill the trans or you'll be back crying about how to get the excess fluid out.
And you're right about Oreilly. That's exactly what I had to do: here is exactly what I want, on your website, and it says right here that you actually have it in stores. Although why they carry lines that big, but don't carry the comparatively smaller ends is something I don't understand.
They can order them, and usually have them at the store the next day.
This is the same guy that told me that you have to remove the entire grill to change the headlights. I thought maybe he was just confused, but no.
Some (not all) of the counter pukes at the parts stores love it when someone asks them how to do something. They get a nut on this, although they don't know the difference between **** and pumpkin pie about the vehicle they still want to tell what you need and how to do it.
After the run-in with him, I checked with the roommate to see what ATF he'd been using. He still had the bottle, and it's right. Gas station brand, but right. So I at least know I won't be mixing things.
And I figured I'd ask about the transmission thing, because someone earlier said that I needed to make sure my parking brake was working. I wasn't sure if that was all that was likely to be keeping it there.
Parking brake works amazingly well.
I think this is where I said to set your parking brake to check the trans fluid level with the engine running and someone said the parking brake may not work. If you go back in this epic thread you may find the post(s).
So, once everything's off, reverse order will be seal transmission pan,
What do you mean 'seal the transmission pan'? You're not planning on removing the trans oil pan are you. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the pan that is used to drain it. Just make sure you don't lose the drain plug gasket in the process of removing the plug.
insert connectors, run and insert lines. Back out, radiator in [because I can probably tackle the water pump and thermostat first], clutch fan, belt on after fan? radiator in, radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines hooked up to radiator. Electric fan in. Fill transmission fluid. Fill coolant [and then fill it some more, and some more, all while hoping there's enough transmission fluid]. Try to get the air out. Then gently back out of the driveway to a flatter position and check the transmission fluid, assuming the street is flat enough.
Even if you don't get 6 quarts out, put in what you did drain and then do a cold fluid level check, and then top it off. More on this later.
I think I might have enough fluid here, unless it happens to expire. I kept two bottles in the Jeep itself 'just in case', but the temperature's been rather erratic [cold, bitter cold, spring-like, cold again]. Suddenly wondering if that's a bad idea.
I guess if I end up getting less than six quarts I'll know I was low.
Once I've added back what was drained, and checked for leaks, is it safe to drive at that point? Because I remember that you can't really check the fluid level until it's properly heated up. And, obviously, flat surface.
Do a cold fluid level check.
On somewhat level ground.
Set parking brake.
Place gear selector in Park.
Do not start engine now. Remove dipstick, clean it, and then check the level on the dipstick. It should be near the top of the 'Okay' range, or somewhere between the add mark and the max/full mark.
Clean off the dipstick and set it aside. Start the engine. Hold the brake pedal and shift to all the gears, waiting 5 seconds in each gear, ending in Park again. Leave the engine running. Immediately check the fluid level. It should have gone down to near the bottom of the dipstick, but not off of the end. If it's off the end of the dipstick, slowly add fluid a little at a time until it shows on the dipstick, then stop. You're in a safe range to drive the Heep for the hot fluid level check, which is driving it for a minimum of 15 miles to heat up the trans fluid. While driving it, the torque converter will heat the fluid pretty good and you will see a big difference in the fluid level. Top it off slowly to bring it up to the top hole/Full/Max mark. (the dipsticks changed over the years so I don't know what your dipstick has printed on it). Do not overfill the trans or you'll be back crying about how to get the excess fluid out.
And you're right about Oreilly. That's exactly what I had to do: here is exactly what I want, on your website, and it says right here that you actually have it in stores. Although why they carry lines that big, but don't carry the comparatively smaller ends is something I don't understand.
They can order them, and usually have them at the store the next day.
This is the same guy that told me that you have to remove the entire grill to change the headlights. I thought maybe he was just confused, but no.
Some (not all) of the counter pukes at the parts stores love it when someone asks them how to do something. They get a nut on this, although they don't know the difference between **** and pumpkin pie about the vehicle they still want to tell what you need and how to do it.
After the run-in with him, I checked with the roommate to see what ATF he'd been using. He still had the bottle, and it's right. Gas station brand, but right. So I at least know I won't be mixing things.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
By 'seal', I meant 'put the plug back in, so it doesn't all just run out again'. Something that apparently sometimes happens with some fluids, because 'oops, forgot'.
And yeah. I know I don't want to overfill it, because that can do bad things, and the answer for 'get extra out' is likely 'drain and do everything more carefully this time, but with less fluid'.
Part of why I'm being so annoying with all the questions. I want to be 100% certain that I have absolutely everything down in theory before I put it into practice. Sorry about that. I only just figured out how to search within threads.
Since I got a late start today, I'm just going over everything again. Making sure I've printed the pages I need. Re-checking my notes on the valve cover gasket. Treating it like I'm in school, and this is a test, and if I fail I won't graduate.
It seems like it's a lot of work to do all at once, but it also seems like some of it will be much easier to do since I'm doing everything else.
And I admit it: I'm stressing about the automatic transmission stuff because automatic transmissions are complex, intimidating, and I view them as fragile. So, while I can read about all this stuff in the FSM, having someone else who knows what they're doing break it down for me like you just did is massively helpful.
And yeah. I know I don't want to overfill it, because that can do bad things, and the answer for 'get extra out' is likely 'drain and do everything more carefully this time, but with less fluid'.
Part of why I'm being so annoying with all the questions. I want to be 100% certain that I have absolutely everything down in theory before I put it into practice. Sorry about that. I only just figured out how to search within threads.
Since I got a late start today, I'm just going over everything again. Making sure I've printed the pages I need. Re-checking my notes on the valve cover gasket. Treating it like I'm in school, and this is a test, and if I fail I won't graduate.
It seems like it's a lot of work to do all at once, but it also seems like some of it will be much easier to do since I'm doing everything else.
And I admit it: I'm stressing about the automatic transmission stuff because automatic transmissions are complex, intimidating, and I view them as fragile. So, while I can read about all this stuff in the FSM, having someone else who knows what they're doing break it down for me like you just did is massively helpful.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
By 'seal', I meant 'put the plug back in, so it doesn't all just run out again'. Something that apparently sometimes happens with some fluids, because 'oops, forgot'.
And yeah. I know I don't want to overfill it, because that can do bad things, and the answer for 'get extra out' is likely 'drain and do everything more carefully this time, but with less fluid'.
Part of why I'm being so annoying with all the questions. I want to be 100% certain that I have absolutely everything down in theory before I put it into practice. Sorry about that. I only just figured out how to search within threads.
Since I got a late start today, I'm just going over everything again. Making sure I've printed the pages I need. Re-checking my notes on the valve cover gasket. Treating it like I'm in school, and this is a test, and if I fail I won't graduate.
It seems like it's a lot of work to do all at once, but it also seems like some of it will be much easier to do since I'm doing everything else.
And I admit it: I'm stressing about the automatic transmission stuff because automatic transmissions are complex, intimidating, and I view them as fragile. So, while I can read about all this stuff in the FSM, having someone else who knows what they're doing break it down for me like you just did is massively helpful.
And yeah. I know I don't want to overfill it, because that can do bad things, and the answer for 'get extra out' is likely 'drain and do everything more carefully this time, but with less fluid'.
Part of why I'm being so annoying with all the questions. I want to be 100% certain that I have absolutely everything down in theory before I put it into practice. Sorry about that. I only just figured out how to search within threads.
Since I got a late start today, I'm just going over everything again. Making sure I've printed the pages I need. Re-checking my notes on the valve cover gasket. Treating it like I'm in school, and this is a test, and if I fail I won't graduate.
It seems like it's a lot of work to do all at once, but it also seems like some of it will be much easier to do since I'm doing everything else.
And I admit it: I'm stressing about the automatic transmission stuff because automatic transmissions are complex, intimidating, and I view them as fragile. So, while I can read about all this stuff in the FSM, having someone else who knows what they're doing break it down for me like you just did is massively helpful.
Cheers