I could use some wisdom here!
07-11-2013, 12:04 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I could use some wisdom here!
Hi guys. This may be a lengthy post, so I beg your patience.
Recently, I bought a 2001 XJ Sport (which I love). But, turns out it has TON of problems, which I half-expected to encounter.
Here's the list:
Leaking VC gasket
Leaking rear main engine seal
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Rad needs replacement
Water pump about to go
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Both diffs leaking
Front diff pinion leaking
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
Saggy suspension
Saggy/worn shocks
Wearing trackbar and drag link
Now, I am a 19 year old with limited funds. VERY limited funds. My parents will have nothing to do with this even though they were all for me buying it!! Anyways, I haven't really worked on cars before but I plan to start with this one. It needs to be road ready by September so I can drive it from SoCal back to Denver. Obviously, I want it to MAKE the drive there, so here are the things I'm going to attempt myself, in order of importance:
Replace radiator (I've heard good things about the 3-row CSF rads)
Replace coolant pump
Fix both diffs, probably pay someone to do the pinion seal
Fix that damn E-brake
VC Gasket
After this, I believe the Jeep will be fit for journeys assuming there are no other issues I encounter besides the ones stated above, and assuming I keep an eye on engine oil (rear main seal leak) and diff fluid.
Do you think the:
Rear main seal (it's not a bad leak)
Rusty oil pan
Tuneup
Wearing trackbar and drag link
Saggy suspension / soft shocks
Can wait until around Dec when I can ask for items for Christmas?
Thanks for reading that somewhat confusing post. I am young and have a LOT to learn so if you have any advice please contribute.
Thanks!
Recently, I bought a 2001 XJ Sport (which I love). But, turns out it has TON of problems, which I half-expected to encounter.
Here's the list:
Leaking VC gasket
Leaking rear main engine seal
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Rad needs replacement
Water pump about to go
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Both diffs leaking
Front diff pinion leaking
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
Saggy suspension
Saggy/worn shocks
Wearing trackbar and drag link
Now, I am a 19 year old with limited funds. VERY limited funds. My parents will have nothing to do with this even though they were all for me buying it!! Anyways, I haven't really worked on cars before but I plan to start with this one. It needs to be road ready by September so I can drive it from SoCal back to Denver. Obviously, I want it to MAKE the drive there, so here are the things I'm going to attempt myself, in order of importance:
Replace radiator (I've heard good things about the 3-row CSF rads)
Replace coolant pump
Fix both diffs, probably pay someone to do the pinion seal
Fix that damn E-brake
VC Gasket
After this, I believe the Jeep will be fit for journeys assuming there are no other issues I encounter besides the ones stated above, and assuming I keep an eye on engine oil (rear main seal leak) and diff fluid.
Do you think the:
Rear main seal (it's not a bad leak)
Rusty oil pan
Tuneup
Wearing trackbar and drag link
Saggy suspension / soft shocks
Can wait until around Dec when I can ask for items for Christmas?
Thanks for reading that somewhat confusing post. I am young and have a LOT to learn so if you have any advice please contribute.
Thanks!
07-11-2013, 12:38 AM
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
16 Posts
Model: Cherokee
If you are looking for 'wisdom', might have to wait until the day crowd gets out of bed. On the other hand if you are OK with some general comments in a snappy blue font color, you're in luck.
Leaking VC gasket
This is pretty much just an annoyance, but it's also cheap to fix and a good project to get your feet wet working on the jeep.
Leaking rear main engine seal
Most 'leaking rear mains' aren't leaking rear mains at all. That's just where oil finally drips when it leaks from something higher up. Valve cover.... that may be the bulk of the problem. Other things to check: oil pressure sender, oil filter adapter- clean the motor up and look for the leak. It may not be the rear main at all.
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Keep an eye on it, perhaps shoot some rust converter on there to buy time. Assuming it hasn't rusted nearly through. Still feel pretty solid when you tap it gently with a hammer or a wrench?.
Rad needs replacement
Is it leaking? Jeep overheating?
Water pump about to go
Is it noisy, wobbly or leaking?
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Bubba did the last brake job I guess. This is a cheap part, or grab some from the scrapyard.
Both diffs leaking
From where? Seals or the cover gaskets? Good time to replace the fluid.
Front diff pinion leaking
While you're in there do the axle shaft seals too. They aren't difficult or expensive and it'll save another trip inside the housing later on.
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
On an '01 that's basically oil, filters, trans fluid replacement and sparkplugs. Dexron III, not ATF+4. There's a drain plug on the trans making it super easy.
Saggy suspension
They all get that, the rear leaf springs aren't all that great. If you are going to lift, now's the time. Else a good OEM height set. Start spraying the bolts with PBblaster a week ahead of time, they get good and stuck. I replaced my rear bumper today (don't ask, lol) and snapped off all 4 bolts. The stuff back there gets stuck good.
Saggy/worn shocks
Shocks don't 'sag' as they don't add any height. They control rebound. Bounce each corner of the XJ and see if it stops moving after a single bounce. If it keeps bouncing the shocks are shot.
Wearing trackbar and drag link
I generally agree with the order you are planning the repairs- except this you'll want to do sooner rather than later lest you discover that pants-staining Jeep feature called 'death wobble'. Hit a bump cockeyed at speed and the front shakes like it just fell apart. Track bar is perhaps the #1 cause of this. Both it and the drag link are safety items, IMHO.
Congrats on the purchase! (where's the pics?)
Leaking VC gasket
This is pretty much just an annoyance, but it's also cheap to fix and a good project to get your feet wet working on the jeep.
Leaking rear main engine seal
Most 'leaking rear mains' aren't leaking rear mains at all. That's just where oil finally drips when it leaks from something higher up. Valve cover.... that may be the bulk of the problem. Other things to check: oil pressure sender, oil filter adapter- clean the motor up and look for the leak. It may not be the rear main at all.
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Keep an eye on it, perhaps shoot some rust converter on there to buy time. Assuming it hasn't rusted nearly through. Still feel pretty solid when you tap it gently with a hammer or a wrench?.
Rad needs replacement
Is it leaking? Jeep overheating?
Water pump about to go
Is it noisy, wobbly or leaking?
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Bubba did the last brake job I guess. This is a cheap part, or grab some from the scrapyard.
Both diffs leaking
From where? Seals or the cover gaskets? Good time to replace the fluid.
Front diff pinion leaking
While you're in there do the axle shaft seals too. They aren't difficult or expensive and it'll save another trip inside the housing later on.
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
On an '01 that's basically oil, filters, trans fluid replacement and sparkplugs. Dexron III, not ATF+4. There's a drain plug on the trans making it super easy.
Saggy suspension
They all get that, the rear leaf springs aren't all that great. If you are going to lift, now's the time. Else a good OEM height set. Start spraying the bolts with PBblaster a week ahead of time, they get good and stuck. I replaced my rear bumper today (don't ask, lol) and snapped off all 4 bolts. The stuff back there gets stuck good.
Saggy/worn shocks
Shocks don't 'sag' as they don't add any height. They control rebound. Bounce each corner of the XJ and see if it stops moving after a single bounce. If it keeps bouncing the shocks are shot.
Wearing trackbar and drag link
I generally agree with the order you are planning the repairs- except this you'll want to do sooner rather than later lest you discover that pants-staining Jeep feature called 'death wobble'. Hit a bump cockeyed at speed and the front shakes like it just fell apart. Track bar is perhaps the #1 cause of this. Both it and the drag link are safety items, IMHO.
Congrats on the purchase! (where's the pics?)
Last edited by Radi; 07-11-2013 at 12:54 AM.
07-11-2013, 01:25 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are looking for 'wisdom', might have to wait until the day crowd gets out of bed. On the other hand if you are OK with some general comments in a snappy blue font color, you're in luck.
Leaking VC gasket
This is pretty much just an annoyance, but it's also cheap to fix and a good project to get your feet wet working on the jeep.
Leaking rear main engine seal
Most 'leaking rear mains' aren't leaking rear mains at all. That's just where oil finally drips when it leaks from something higher up. Valve cover.... that may be the bulk of the problem. Other things to check: oil pressure sender, oil filter adapter- clean the motor up and look for the leak. It may not be the rear main at all.
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Keep an eye on it, perhaps shoot some rust converter on there to buy time. Assuming it hasn't rusted nearly through. Still feel pretty solid when you tap it gently with a hammer or a wrench?.
Rad needs replacement
Is it leaking? Jeep overheating?
Water pump about to go
Is it noisy, wobbly or leaking?
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Bubba did the last brake job I guess. This is a cheap part, or grab some from the scrapyard.
Both diffs leaking
From where? Seals or the cover gaskets? Good time to replace the fluid.
Front diff pinion leaking
While you're in there do the axle shaft seals too. They aren't difficult or expensive and it'll save another trip inside the housing later on.
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
On an '01 that's basically oil, filters, trans fluid replacement and sparkplugs. Dexron III, not ATF+4. There's a drain plug on the trans making it super easy.
Saggy suspension
They all get that, the rear leaf springs aren't all that great. If you are going to lift, now's the time. Else a good OEM height set. Start spraying the bolts with PBblaster a week ahead of time, they get good and stuck. I replaced my rear bumper today (don't ask, lol) and snapped off all 4 bolts. The stuff back there gets stuck good.
Saggy/worn shocks
Shocks don't 'sag' as they don't add any height. They control rebound. Bounce each corner of the XJ and see if it stops moving after a single bounce. If it keeps bouncing the shocks are shot.
Wearing trackbar and drag link
I generally agree with the order you are planning the repairs- except this you'll want to do sooner rather than later lest you discover that pants-staining Jeep feature called 'death wobble'. Hit a bump cockeyed at speed and the front shakes like it just fell apart. Track bar is perhaps the #1 cause of this. Both it and the drag link are safety items, IMHO.
Congrats on the purchase! (where's the pics?)
Leaking VC gasket
This is pretty much just an annoyance, but it's also cheap to fix and a good project to get your feet wet working on the jeep.
Leaking rear main engine seal
Most 'leaking rear mains' aren't leaking rear mains at all. That's just where oil finally drips when it leaks from something higher up. Valve cover.... that may be the bulk of the problem. Other things to check: oil pressure sender, oil filter adapter- clean the motor up and look for the leak. It may not be the rear main at all.
Super rusty (but not leaking) oil pan
Keep an eye on it, perhaps shoot some rust converter on there to buy time. Assuming it hasn't rusted nearly through. Still feel pretty solid when you tap it gently with a hammer or a wrench?.
Rad needs replacement
Is it leaking? Jeep overheating?
Water pump about to go
Is it noisy, wobbly or leaking?
Parking break is MISSING the spreader bars (WTF?!)
Bubba did the last brake job I guess. This is a cheap part, or grab some from the scrapyard.
Both diffs leaking
From where? Seals or the cover gaskets? Good time to replace the fluid.
Front diff pinion leaking
While you're in there do the axle shaft seals too. They aren't difficult or expensive and it'll save another trip inside the housing later on.
Needs complete tune up on engine and tranny
On an '01 that's basically oil, filters, trans fluid replacement and sparkplugs. Dexron III, not ATF+4. There's a drain plug on the trans making it super easy.
Saggy suspension
They all get that, the rear leaf springs aren't all that great. If you are going to lift, now's the time. Else a good OEM height set. Start spraying the bolts with PBblaster a week ahead of time, they get good and stuck. I replaced my rear bumper today (don't ask, lol) and snapped off all 4 bolts. The stuff back there gets stuck good.
Saggy/worn shocks
Shocks don't 'sag' as they don't add any height. They control rebound. Bounce each corner of the XJ and see if it stops moving after a single bounce. If it keeps bouncing the shocks are shot.
Wearing trackbar and drag link
I generally agree with the order you are planning the repairs- except this you'll want to do sooner rather than later lest you discover that pants-staining Jeep feature called 'death wobble'. Hit a bump cockeyed at speed and the front shakes like it just fell apart. Track bar is perhaps the #1 cause of this. Both it and the drag link are safety items, IMHO.
Congrats on the purchase! (where's the pics?)
Rear main seal: I had a mechanic that I trust check over the Jeep and he concluded it was the rear main seal. Not sure if that changes anything but I plan on replacing the send anyways so I will give that a look.
Oil pan: I'll get back to you tomorrow on that. The mechanic said he didn't think he would be able to get it back on if he took it off (if that gives you an idea).
Rad & Water pump: The water pump is starting to leak (no wobbles or noises ... yet), so I figured since it is a cheaper part, I might as well do it. (I had a Ford Ranger, and I discovered how easily a water pump can strand you!) The rad isn't really leaking, but my mechanic said it was time; it is very corroded and damaged in some areas. (He was vague about this; I'll look tomorrow when there is light).
For the diffs -- how would I be able to tell if it's the seals or gaskets? Any way to tell externally?
Track bar and drag link: I agree with you -- I have seen videos of the death wobble and it looks SCARY (I showed my mom and she flipped hehehe). I , and my mechanic, don't think that they are worn to the point of that happening -- it is probably just a good thing to replace in the near future.
Thanks again for your help Radi, I appreciate it very much
07-11-2013, 04:16 AM
#4
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rochester, MIchigan
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Couple of comments:
The "rear main seal leak" may not be ...easy to get faked out on this...check the valve cover gasket for a leak that is running down the back of the engine so as to appear that the rear main seal is leaking. If it is indeed a rear main seal leak, how bad really is it? You could go to all the trouble of replacing the seal and still have a slight leak with a new seal ...sometimes takes a couple of attempts to get the leak completely stopped...in other words, if it isn't real bad, given your limited funds, worry about something else (like the inop emergency brake).
If the water pump is leaking...fix it...it is on the way out...excellent time to replace the radiator as well if it is shot.
btw...get a Chiltons or Haynes manual...not as complete as a FSM but for only $25 will answer a lot of your questions...good luck.
The "rear main seal leak" may not be ...easy to get faked out on this...check the valve cover gasket for a leak that is running down the back of the engine so as to appear that the rear main seal is leaking. If it is indeed a rear main seal leak, how bad really is it? You could go to all the trouble of replacing the seal and still have a slight leak with a new seal ...sometimes takes a couple of attempts to get the leak completely stopped...in other words, if it isn't real bad, given your limited funds, worry about something else (like the inop emergency brake).
If the water pump is leaking...fix it...it is on the way out...excellent time to replace the radiator as well if it is shot.
btw...get a Chiltons or Haynes manual...not as complete as a FSM but for only $25 will answer a lot of your questions...good luck.
07-11-2013, 10:55 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes, I believe Radi covered the "fake leak" which is why I intend to replace the VC gasket and clean it up, drive it around, and see if the problem persists as well as checking the oil pressure send.
And yep, water pump and rad are the next planned steps.
PS here is a pic of her, her name is Pepper
And yep, water pump and rad are the next planned steps.
PS here is a pic of her, her name is Pepper
07-11-2013, 11:28 AM
#6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1997, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Congratulations on joining the family!
It looks like you've gotten some good advice on what to fix in what order from the previous posters.
With a 2001, keeping the cooling system in tip top shape is an absolute necessity to help prolong the life of the 0331 cylinder head.
It looks like you've gotten some good advice on what to fix in what order from the previous posters.
With a 2001, keeping the cooling system in tip top shape is an absolute necessity to help prolong the life of the 0331 cylinder head.
07-11-2013, 11:56 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I currently fixing all the same stuff on mine. I would say the 3 row radiator isn't really going to do much of anyting for you. My suggestion is to just get a stock replacement. I daily drive mine in South Florida through stop and go trafic and havn't had a problem with keeping it cool since replacing the radiator and water pump. While you're working on the cooling system, might as well replace the thermostat and temp sensor and flush everything out while you're at it. even if they aren't bad, it's nice to know they have recently been done.
as far as order of doing things I would say
1. cooling system (radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, gasket, thermostat housing gasket, & temp sensor), valve cover gasket (get the blue felpro gasket), tune up (oil change, airfilter if needed, spark plugs) the valve cover is easier to get off when the thermostat housing is off because you can move the heater hoses out of the way. I suggest doing it all at the same time cause you're already gonna have everything taken apart and you'll notice a huge difference in the way it runs when you're done. you should be spending less than $500 on all of this I would think if you shop around a little, you could find it all for around $400 or less. when I did my cooling system (everything I mentioned) i paid about $300, the valve cover gasket was $30, the oil change set me back about $25, and the spark plugs were about $20.
2. Do the diffs. replace the seals and put in new fluids. they are quite easy to do. no need to have someone else do them.
3. fix the ebrake.
-I would say if the pan is in good enough condition, wait till it's time for your next oil change or maybe even a few changes down the road.
-As far as the trans goes, all that you need to do is drain, replace the filter, and refill. it's quite easy to do as well. if it's shifting fine though, you will most likely be good for the trip and then do it later.
-For the suspension and steering... you need to take the jeep on the highway and see how it does at speed. take it over a few bumps on the highway as well. trust me when I say it sucks to find out you have a major death wobble issue when you're already loaded up and moving at 70mph.... I'm not saying you cant drive it like that, but you need to know your limits before you take it on a long trip. then you can decide if it can wait or not.
as far as order of doing things I would say
1. cooling system (radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, gasket, thermostat housing gasket, & temp sensor), valve cover gasket (get the blue felpro gasket), tune up (oil change, airfilter if needed, spark plugs) the valve cover is easier to get off when the thermostat housing is off because you can move the heater hoses out of the way. I suggest doing it all at the same time cause you're already gonna have everything taken apart and you'll notice a huge difference in the way it runs when you're done. you should be spending less than $500 on all of this I would think if you shop around a little, you could find it all for around $400 or less. when I did my cooling system (everything I mentioned) i paid about $300, the valve cover gasket was $30, the oil change set me back about $25, and the spark plugs were about $20.
2. Do the diffs. replace the seals and put in new fluids. they are quite easy to do. no need to have someone else do them.
3. fix the ebrake.
-I would say if the pan is in good enough condition, wait till it's time for your next oil change or maybe even a few changes down the road.
-As far as the trans goes, all that you need to do is drain, replace the filter, and refill. it's quite easy to do as well. if it's shifting fine though, you will most likely be good for the trip and then do it later.
-For the suspension and steering... you need to take the jeep on the highway and see how it does at speed. take it over a few bumps on the highway as well. trust me when I say it sucks to find out you have a major death wobble issue when you're already loaded up and moving at 70mph.... I'm not saying you cant drive it like that, but you need to know your limits before you take it on a long trip. then you can decide if it can wait or not.
Trending Topics
07-11-2013, 12:38 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I currently fixing all the same stuff on mine. I would say the 3 row radiator isn't really going to do much of anyting for you. My suggestion is to just get a stock replacement. I daily drive mine in South Florida through stop and go trafic and havn't had a problem with keeping it cool since replacing the radiator and water pump. While you're working on the cooling system, might as well replace the thermostat and temp sensor and flush everything out while you're at it. even if they aren't bad, it's nice to know they have recently been done.
as far as order of doing things I would say
1. cooling system (radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, gasket, thermostat housing gasket, & temp sensor), valve cover gasket (get the blue felpro gasket), tune up (oil change, airfilter if needed, spark plugs) the valve cover is easier to get off when the thermostat housing is off because you can move the heater hoses out of the way. I suggest doing it all at the same time cause you're already gonna have everything taken apart and you'll notice a huge difference in the way it runs when you're done. you should be spending less than $500 on all of this I would think if you shop around a little, you could find it all for around $400 or less. when I did my cooling system (everything I mentioned) i paid about $300, the valve cover gasket was $30, the oil change set me back about $25, and the spark plugs were about $20.
2. Do the diffs. replace the seals and put in new fluids. they are quite easy to do. no need to have someone else do them.
3. fix the ebrake.
-I would say if the pan is in good enough condition, wait till it's time for your next oil change or maybe even a few changes down the road.
-As far as the trans goes, all that you need to do is drain, replace the filter, and refill. it's quite easy to do as well. if it's shifting fine though, you will most likely be good for the trip and then do it later.
-For the suspension and steering... you need to take the jeep on the highway and see how it does at speed. take it over a few bumps on the highway as well. trust me when I say it sucks to find out you have a major death wobble issue when you're already loaded up and moving at 70mph.... I'm not saying you cant drive it like that, but you need to know your lits before you take it on a long trip. then you can decide if it can wait or not.
as far as order of doing things I would say
1. cooling system (radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, gasket, thermostat housing gasket, & temp sensor), valve cover gasket (get the blue felpro gasket), tune up (oil change, airfilter if needed, spark plugs) the valve cover is easier to get off when the thermostat housing is off because you can move the heater hoses out of the way. I suggest doing it all at the same time cause you're already gonna have everything taken apart and you'll notice a huge difference in the way it runs when you're done. you should be spending less than $500 on all of this I would think if you shop around a little, you could find it all for around $400 or less. when I did my cooling system (everything I mentioned) i paid about $300, the valve cover gasket was $30, the oil change set me back about $25, and the spark plugs were about $20.
2. Do the diffs. replace the seals and put in new fluids. they are quite easy to do. no need to have someone else do them.
3. fix the ebrake.
-I would say if the pan is in good enough condition, wait till it's time for your next oil change or maybe even a few changes down the road.
-As far as the trans goes, all that you need to do is drain, replace the filter, and refill. it's quite easy to do as well. if it's shifting fine though, you will most likely be good for the trip and then do it later.
-For the suspension and steering... you need to take the jeep on the highway and see how it does at speed. take it over a few bumps on the highway as well. trust me when I say it sucks to find out you have a major death wobble issue when you're already loaded up and moving at 70mph.... I'm not saying you cant drive it like that, but you need to know your lits before you take it on a long trip. then you can decide if it can wait or not.
For the susp and steering -- I drive on the freeway with it almost every day, nice n' fast around 75, on bumpy freeways and it feels totally solid so I think I'm gonna wait on those two parts.
I hope to start some maintenance this weekend - I'll keep this thread updated.
Thank you for the help everyone
07-11-2013, 01:36 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rochester, MIchigan
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks god in the pic...no visible rust. Hard to imagine a rusted out oil pan on a 12 yr old SoCal Jeep...my XJ has been through 22 salty Michigan winters and the only thing not rusted underneath is the oil pan.
07-11-2013, 01:54 PM
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 4,169
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The mechanic said he doesn't think he can get the oil pan back on? I'm thinking maybe you should find another mechanic, lol. How about some pics of this rusty oil pan, and also of the e-brake setup? One thing I'll suggest, as others have mentioned in some form or another, don't be so quick to jump to conclusions. Another infamous source of oil leak on the Cherokee is the 90-degree oil filter adapter. Pretty sure that's where my leak is, currently.
07-11-2013, 03:34 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Gonna get some pictures for y'all right now!
07-11-2013, 04:10 PM
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, I took a few pics of her. They're all super enhanced so you can see everything in each photo. Let me know if there's anything else I can photograph. The ones below show the: Destroyed front diff breather, VERY leaky front diff and pinion, pretty nasty VC leak (got pics of it running down the side of the engine... it's caked on pretty good), water pump, nasty looking shocks, nasty cancer on the floorboard (driver side).
Hopefully gonna tackle the VC today!
Pics:
Hopefully gonna tackle the VC today!
Pics:
07-11-2013, 04:59 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rochester, MIchigan
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Maybe it's just the angle but in the last pic...looks like the harmonic balancer could be starting to separate...check it out. Otherwise, not too horrible looking (considering it was in rusty Michigan for 70k). Not sure about your comment regarding the front diff breather... Also, please post pics of oil pan and e-brake ...IIRC you mentioned a "spreader bar" ...is that the equalizer bar under the vehicle or rather the parking brake strut inside the rear drum you are refering to???
07-11-2013, 07:32 PM
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Riviera, Texas
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I see starting problem in your future. That is if you don't clean up your connections on you starter. You should pull the wires on it and clean them really good. While you're at it you should consider cleaning all of you grounding points too. Just something I noticed of the pic of the starter.
