YES - everything is worked out - the only thing I remember different in the installation is that the inlet in for the transmission fluid was smooth rather than barbed - so use a fuel clamp rather than a hose clamp. I have a fan clutch too, unless the NAPA fan clutch isn't a standard replacement item - it should work too. The extra 3/4" works! - good luck checking the coolant

 

I will test to see if there is combustion and go from there. There’s still a lot to be done

I just want to drive it in all seasons without worry. AC on when I want

 

Your fan clutch PULLEY will always run, but it should not be magnetically engaged, it should cycle on/off, with an interval anywhere between 10-60 sec, so easily observable.

If any other situation exists, there is a fault, see FSM fault finding chart

* Read actual engine coolant temp with a plug in OBD2 reader and free Torque Lite app on phone (mine is permanently fitted BAFX $30)

I use OEM style rad cause they are cheap, fit, and dont seem to be any less reliable than other designs. I remain to be convinced aftermarket designs offer improved cooling, but I may be wrong.

I do feel the OEM design is marginal for hot weather, (like many vehicles)

My system does not normally overheat, we get 110F weather, summer is hot in Australia

It runs as per the specs in FSM for fan operation (105-108C)

Engine normally runs at thermostat temp which is 82C

It goes to 105C when almost immediately when idling. The electric fan keeps it there, and switches on/off

When it is really hot/towing/low speed off-roading, one must monitor engine & trans temp gauge

One can fit a more powerful VC fan, I believe it is for the smaller engine XJ. Some guys report removing its as its noisy

All fan shroud's should be properly fitted, they make a big difference

A good rad cap is a must

If water pump is unknown, fit a new one, they are cheap as dirt

I recommend pressure test your cooling system, very cheap test.

If you have no bubbles in filled rad neck, will NOT be head gasket. There should be almost to no bubbling once its warm. Salad cream in the oil fill cap is the other giveaway.

AW4 tends to run near engine temp with rad fiiting, even with much larger air cooler. This is not ideal in a hot climate and shortens their life or even destroys them if not very careful. I have a trans temp gauge

Apart from that, the only issue is whether the block has lots of scum, but we will leave that

sorry bout the C stuff, we left the F stuff behind 50yrs ago, when i was still in skool

 

what about the AC clutch? Should that be constantly spinning while the AC is on? I thought those were intermittent. Mine is constantly spinning when AC
is on. It doesn’t move when I turn off the Ac.

I will use a OBD2 reader and report back

 

Understand - and with larger tires (stock was 225/75/r15 in most cases) & lower gearing, the original stock components are often stressed beyond their limits. While your working on the cooling, you might want to prevent leaks from Chrysler's leek prone transmission fittings: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...d-help-264320/ Rebuilt Transmissions typically cost almost 2X what a rebuilt engine will set you back

 

In general, good points from down under. It's great that you can get by with an inexpensive radiator in hot weather with your modest lift and lighter tires in your topography! However, California is not like it is down under. We yanks have heavier tires ( I have 31's and this thread was started by a person on 33's) that take more energy to turn which produces more heat. I wouldn't buy an expensive radiator if I didn't have to. Simply put, my stock cooling system couldn't keep up coming across a hot valley, shifting into 4-low and climbing up to 10,000'. It was this trail that prompted me to upgrade my cooling system:

 

Aw4 is comfy 180 to 220. So, with it plumbed into rad it will easily see 195 to 210 daily. Electric fans kick on to help cool then shut off.
Running a/c contributes more heat. I see very Lil to raise an eyebrow here. If your uncomfortable with 220 add hood vents. Jmho

 

Oh and change Trans fluid more frequently. This ain't rocket science lol just a jeep.

Now if your cooking 230 to 250 well then you would probably wanna get some issues sorted out.
You stated 220 was your high temp reading.