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How do I attach my hoist to the engine to remove it?
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
How do I attach my hoist to the engine to remove it?
I will be removing the engine for the first time to replace the flexplate. I have a hoist in the shop to get the engine out with a hook at the end. How would I attach it to the engine? I assume I would use a chain, but how and where would I attach that chain to the engine?
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I keep several small chains for this purpose that have skinny links with space enough for a bolt to fit through. Pick any point on one side in the rear, such as an intake/exhaust manifold bolt or stud or use a bolt inserted into the head. Pick another bolt, stud or inserted bolt on the front and opposite side so that the chain goes from one corner across the center. Slip the hook under it and lift away. You don't have to have anything actually go through the links in the center. Make it so you can slide the chain through the hook as your needs to change the angle of the engine changes
I thought I had a picture of mine on the hoist, but I don't. I used the last head bolt on the left back side of the block and the upper forward AC pump foundation bolt (the bolt hole is there regardless of AC being installed) on the right front side of the engine. These pick points give the engine a good balance. Helps to have a load leveling bar on the hoist. Harbor freight has good inexpensive ones.
There is an engine leveler that you can pick up. It has four chains down to the engine, a hook for the lift, and a crank through the middle. It sure is easier to get the engine back in using it since you have fine control over the tilt front to back.
There is an engine leveler that you can pick up. It has four chains down to the engine, a hook for the lift, and a crank through the middle. It sure is easier to get the engine back in using it since you have fine control over the tilt front to back.
Couple of tips. Remove the crank sensor so you don't damage it. Get the upper bellhousing bolts out first, use the correct E12 or a 12-point socket. You'll probably miss at least one bolt and be cursing why it won't separate. Check for one above the starter from the front. Unbolt the flexplate from the t/c and leave the t/c in the trans. During re-install, make sure the t/c is fully rotated and seated in, so you don't damage the trans. You should have to pull the t/c flexplate forward slightly when you go to bolt it back up. Try not to pinch the wiring or vac lines between the bellhousing and engine block.
Not as helpful on an automatic, but I have a couple of long bolts with the heads cut off that I thread into the block as guide pins to side every thing back together. It makes trying to stab the input shaft through the clutch into the pilot bearing a lot easier.